Marchesi di Montecristo Nerello del Bastardo, 1999

This is a Trader Joe's special, purchased for $5.99 and still showing itself no worse for wear 13 years after the vintage date. The color has lightened a bit but is still medium deep. While the bouquet may be less flamboyant than it was in its youth, it is no less beautiful: cherries, licorice, red flowers--very Nebbiolo and very pretty. I could sniff this wine all night and not get tired of it. There are plenty of tannins and acid to give the wine backbone and power, but the basic personality is tender: ripe cherry and licorice on a bed of red flowers. As with a good Barolo, the finish has a dry feel but not because it's devoid of fruit. I think it will continue to improve.