Olivier Leflaive Saint-Aubin Premier Cru en Remilly, 1995

I had my last bottle of this in December of 2008, and the color has deepened considerably since then. It's now a very deep old gold, but there is nothing else about this wine that suggests advanced age. The bouquet is beautiful--clarified butter with lemon plus pears, minerals and a slight hint of nutmeg. This is undoubtedly the kind of wine that gave New World winemakers the urge to make big, buttery Chardonnays. But oh what a difference! There is nothing big about this wine, and the butter is refined; rich in flavor, not fat. A very elegant mouthful of wine, billowy on the mid-palate and very long on the finish. There is enough acidity to keep it fresh. I've been slowly working my way through a case of this Saint-Aubine purchased on release, and this is probably the best bottle, at least for my taste. It makes a good case for aging white Burgundy.