Donna Laura Bramosia Chianti Classico, 2006

This is about as perfect a restaurant wine as you'll find. And that's where I found it, at Martell's Pub (formerly the Black Swan Inn) in Kalamazoo. The ruby red color is as bright and lively as the aromas and flavors: cherries, red fruit and aromatic spices. About 30% of the wine has been aged in new oak, but it's not enough oak to intrude on the fresh Sangiovese fruit. A little Merlot (20%) is probably responsible for the pleasantly aromatic herbal qualities and the soft finish. The wine goes down very smoothly, either with the Italian beef entree at Martell's or on its own. But it lacks that something extra that would bring me to pay more than $8 to $10 for it from a wine store shelf.