Pascal Jolivet Attitude Sauvignon Blanc, 2009

I usually shy away from wines with cute names, but there is nothing gimicky about the reputation of Pascal Jolivet. I have enjoyed this Loire estate's Sancerre and Pouilly Fume in the past and knew I could count on a high quality wine (as well as an attitude) when I ordered it as a wine by the glass at C'Est Tout bistro in a southern suburb of Dayton, Ohio.

And yes, the wine does have an attitude--aggressive scents of passion fruit, mint, melon, minerals and all the other good things I expect from a Loire Valley Sauvignon. The "attitude" is actually a bit less aggressive than that of Haut Poitu Sauvignon reported on below, and I consider that a plus rather than a minus. On the palate, the flavors are smooth, subtle and a good match for an excellent entree of sweet potato/goat cheese ravioli. Flavors of the ravioli are warm and broad and benefit from the finely tuned focus of the Sauvignon Blanc.

For $16, this wine is not a great bargain since the grapes come from the broad Loire Valley appellation (rather than Sancerre, Pouilly Fume or Menetou Salon). That's not much less than I pay for my favorite Sancerre, Domaine Daulny. In the grand scheme of things, though, the wine is cheap. Good luck finding a Sauvignon Blanc with this much character and quality from California, New Zealand, South America or anywhere else but the Loire Valley.