Clos Mont Olivet Chateauneuf du Pape, 1988

This wine and the Napa Cellars Cabernet below were good companions on the Christmas dinner table--both wines mature and stately but with clearly focused flavors to accompany the roast lamb dinner.

The color is a medium to light crimson, bright and not a bit faded. Cherries dominate the nose plus the ripe red berries you expect from Grenache. There is also Provencal spice, saddle leather and a hint of tobacco leaf. All so beautifully delineated. On the palate, it's silky smooth, an elegant mouthful of wine, much like a fine Burgundy. It's pretty rather than powerful, although on the second night the power and warmth of Grenache (90 to 92%) become more apparent. A very fine example of Chateaneuf du Pape--mature but by no means on the down slide.