Jean Descombes Morgon (Georges Duboeuf), 2004

I usually drink Jean Descombes Morgon either when it is young and bursting with macerated raspberry fruit or at about 10 years of age when it has taken on subtle nuances and depth of flavor. I have always suspected that this Morgon, like many wines, goes through a relatively dumb period in middle age. I picked the 2004 Jean Descombes at this time because I thought it would still be in its youthful stage; actually, it was drinking with all the glory of a mature wine.

The color is much lighter than it was a couple of years ago but it's still a medium deep ruby. It's reticent on the nose and a bit dry on the palate when I first try it, but both open up beautifully with 20 to 30 minutes of air. I smell ripe gamay fruit, very concentrated red berries, with floral highlights--very pretty and complex enough to qualify as a bouquet rather than aromas. The same qualities carry over to the palate. It's more savory than sweet with a lovely medium to light body that goes beautifully with grilled Atlantic salmon. The concentrated red berries are very persistent in the long finish. This tastes very much like a mature Jean Descombes Morgon, but my experience with the wine tells me it is likely to be even better in a few years. That's something to look forward to.