Les Trois Couronnes Cotes du Rhone, 2010

For one reason or another, I rarely give this Cotes du Rhone the attention it deserves. It can usually be found on one of the lower shelves of the shop, and it's always one of the least expensive. Yet it has never disappointed me, and this 2010 is particularly good.

Deep, saturated crimson. And aromas and flavors to match: blackberries, black pepper and spice. Beautifully aggressive but it's all fruit driven. Not nearly as ripe as the 2007, and that's a plus as far as I'm concerned. A more complete wine and probably a good representative of the excellent 2010 vintage. At $8.99, why not buy and drink more? It may be too late to get more of the 2010, but the 2011, I'm sure, also has lots to offer.

Nine Stones Hilltops Shiraz, 2006

I've enjoyed the Barossa and McLaren Vale bottlings from Nine Stones, a winery owned by Australian wine writer Len Evans. They are very good and typical of Barossa and McLaren Vale Shiraz. This is my first try of the Hilltops cuvee, from vineyards in the hills near Canberra in southern New South Wales. And I may never go back to the other two. This is cool climate Shiraz, the way I like it.

Deep ruby red with some purple tones; looks New World but smells and tastes more like an Old World wine. Black fruits, cassis and black pepper. Very well presented. Light on oak tannins but lots of grip and substance from the peels. Not at all sweet, alcoholic or thick. A well balanced wine with aromas and flavors that keep coming from all directions.

Domaine Daulny Sancerre, 2007

Sauvignon Blanc, even relatively expensive Sancerre, wines are generally best when consumed young. That said, I always hold back a few bottles of my favorite Sancerre, Domaine Daulny, for a few years because I like the nuances that develop. Yes, crisp gooseberry/cat pee quality that is an important part of Sauvignon Blanc is gone, but Domaine Daulny's vines produce something underneath that is worth waiting for--still finely  tuned but complex fruit and mineral flavors that seem to be at their best when the wine warms to room temperature.

This 2007 is a deep gold color now, and I wouldn't want to wait any longer. Still plenty of gooseberry with fresh mint and musk melon. Tamed just a bit from its younger days but with plenty to offer.

Chateau d'Angles La Clape Languedoc Classique, 2007

After spending eight years as the winemaker at Chateau Lafitte Rothschild, Eric Fabre chased a dream by buying his own vineyards on the Mediterranean coast. The romantic attraction of the landscape was undoubtedly part of the attraction but, on the chateau's web site, he cites the "potential of the soil, the climate and the grape varieties favoured locally." He clearly has serious intentions about the Languedoc wine that he will be producing there.

Languedoc reds use the same grapes used in the Southern Rhone. For this wine, it's 50% Syrah, 30% Grenache and 20% Mourvedre, and the wine definitely has more structure than the typical Grenache-heavy Cotes du Rhone. Deep, fairly dark ruby. Mostly black fruit tones with purple flowers. Has gamey smells that remind me a bit of a young Bois du Boursan (Chateauneuf du Pape) but without the elegance, of course. Tannins are a bit rough  at this stage, but the label advises drinking within the first years. I don't find anything promising enough to reward keeping.

Chateau Pierre Bise Haute de la Garde Anjou Blanc, 1996

I bought one or two cases of this Loire Chenin Blanc every year between 1996 and 2001, and it was one of the wines I bought for my daughter's wedding. We loved it, and, at $4-$8 a bottle, it was one of the least expensive wines on the market. Labeled as a simple Anjou Blanc, it is made by one of the top Savennieres producers, who now recognizes this vineyard (Haute de la Garde) as special and deserving of higher pricing.

The wine was perfectly enjoyable in its youth, but I put a few bottles of the 1996 and 1997 away just to see how long they would go. The last time I visited it was 2005 or 2006, and it had gained incredible complexity by that time. This bottle is past its prime, but you never know how long a wine will last until you try.

The color is now a copper color, almost like a blush wine,  but that's the most mature facet of this wine. The vineyard is special because of a high level of botrytis, and that honeyed character has taken over the wine. Now almost like a good Sauternes but without the residual sugar. Very smooth and rich. There is a lot to like in this wine, although the twinkling complexity that was there in 2005 has vanished. I still have one bottle of the 2007 which I will try soon.

Villa Giada Suri Barbera d'Asti, 2010

I served this wine alongside the Bearboat Pinot Noir (below), and they were a good match. Although Barbera has plenty of tannins, they are accessible and barely noticeable. And, with this wine, the aromas and flavors just keep coming at you from different angles.

Medium ruby. Roses, cherries--almost like a Nebbiolo but racier. Tannins come from the peels and pits, and they are ripe and lovely. Aromas and flavors are tightly packed in this wine, and it's a delight to have them emerge one by one on the nose and palate. Every time I drink this Barbera, I am impressed and ask myself why I don't buy more. Regular price is only $12 to $15, and it's worth an extra search.

Bearboat Russian River Pinot Noir, 2008

My preferences in wine have changed a lot over the past 30 years--from big, tannic Napa Valley Cabernets such as Keenan and Conn Creek to Grenache-based Southern Rhones. My tastes have evolved and prices for Napa Cabs have grown faster than my income. A big part of it, though, has to do with changes in my diet. A big, oaky Napa Cab is a great companion for a grilled NY strip or T-bone, but our meals today are more oriented toward vegetables, highly flavored, aromatic and spicy. For this type of diet, Mediterranean wines are perfect. Other wines that match up are Pinot Noir and Barbera--medium to light bodied but very flavorful.

This Bearboat Pinot from the Russian River Valley is a good example. Medium to light ruby. Red cherry, cranberries, flowers and spices--tightly constructed. Nuances of cloves and cinnamon. It goes well with cheesy appetizers but is even better with a main course of pork loin braised in milk. Opens up over the course of the evening.

The $14.99 price I have seen over the past six months at my local grocery store is probably intended to introduce the wine and build a market. It's worth that and more.