Mollydooker Blue Eyed Boy McLaren Vale Shiraz, 2021

I have always tended to avoid Mollydooker wines, probably because of the gimmicky names of their wines. And they do tend to be almost a parody of the Aussie style: bold, oaky and alcoholic. Yet in two blind tastings over the past year, I have rated Mollydooker wines very high. There is no denying their hedonistic attraction.

Very deep and dark, bluish. This wine is Shiraz but I get a chocolate-tinged Cab/Shiraz nose. Black curraants, plums, eucalyptus, coffee, dark chocolate. Grabs your attention and hangs on. Lush and full bodied on the mid-palate but lots of heat on the finish. Becomes more intense and complex as the wine aerates. I gave it 17.5 points and, despite the obvious heat, was surprised to learn of its 16.0 alcohol by volume.

I was even more surprisead by the $70 price tag. For that price, I could get two or three bottles of a very good Crozes-Hermitage or Saint Joseph with more flavor, less oak and lower alcohol.
 

Henschke Peggy's Hill Eden Valley Riesling, 2022

The cool climate Eden Valley is the prized place for Australian Riesling. Henschke, of course, produces some of the finest Austrralian wines, red and white, including the superb Hill of Grace and Mount Edelstone Shiraz.

Light straw color. Bright aromas. Lime, white flowers, petrol. Medium intensity, fuller body than I expected from Riesling. Medium finish  I but I expect more complexity and depth will develop with age. I lilke the wine and scored it 15/20, but at $38 it is significantly more expensive than my favorite Rieslings such as those of Trimbach (Alsace) and Chateau Grand Traverse (OId Mission Peninsula of Michigan).
 

Torbreck Woodcutters Barossa Valley Semillon, 2024

I like Australian Semillon wines. , particularly those from the Hunter Valley. This one, from 100 year old vines in Barossa, meets my approval and I feel confident it will get better over the next 5 to 10 years.

Medium deep straw color, clear and brighdt. Semillon scents of apple, fig with a hint of fresh mown grass. Full body, rich texture on the mid-palate. Not a lot of acidity and flavors are still a bit muted. Just needs some time. My score was 16 out of 20.
 

American Wine Society National Tasting Project 2025: Australia

Along with other members of the Kalamazoo chapter of AWS/Tasters Guild, Donna and I took part in the annual National Tasting Project, focusing this year on Australian wines. The wines, tasted blind, were all very good but most tasters were a bit shocked at the prices relative to wines available to us from other parts of the world.

Americans became used to low priced high quality wines from Australia several decades ago, but Aussie wines available today for less than $15 a bottle are generally limited to commercial wines geared toward the lowest common denominator. One reason for this is that wages for vineyard workers and other staff are significantly higher in that country. Another is that producers of artisan wines have come to realize that consumers are willing to pay more for a good product. Finally, there are tariffs, which will eventually increase the price of all foreign products.

In the next few days, I will be giving my notes on the we tasted on July 13 in Kalamazoo.

Meiomi California Pinot Noir, 2022

Meiomi means "coast" in indigenous West Coast languages, and grapes for this Pinot Noir come from coastal vineyards in Monterey, Santa Barbara and Sonoma. The wine originated with the Wagner family, well known for Caymus Cabernet and generous use of oak.

Very deep and dark ruby. Not very typical of Pinot Noir. Expressive smells and flavors of black raspberry, dark cherry and oak-influenced spices.Full bodied with some supple tannins on the mid-palate and a pleasant finish. A very popular wine, but a bit sweet and one-dimensional for my taste.
 

Willm Cuvee Emile Willm Alsace Pinot Gris Reserve, 2001

This tasted a bit sweet to me when it was young, but I thought it might become a bit more balanced with some time in the cellar. Then it sort of got lost or ignored for too long. It is still sweet (that has become the norm for many Alsace producers) but still very enjoyable in its mature years.

Deep lemon yellow, showing its years. Rich, luscious Pinot Gris smells and flavors. Peach, ripe apples, earth and old vine complexity. Acidity keeps it fresh and delicious on the palate. With fruit this lovely, I can live with a bit of sweetness.
 

Domaine Sainte-Anne Cotes du Rhone Villages Saint Gervais Les Rouvieres, 2010

Compared to the Elyse Le /Courbeau beside it at the table, this CDR Villages comes from the opposite direction. The Elyse wine is modeled after a Grenache-dominant (90% Grenache, 10% Syrah) Chateauneuf du Pape; the Domaine Sainte Anne (70% Mourvdre, 15% Grenache, 15% Syrah), more like a Bandol. wine.

Bright ruby, much darker than the Elyse. Black fruit dominates in this wine, and it's relatively big and powerful. Mourvedre violets and spice. Rich fruit in an elegant package. I am a long-term fan of Domaine Sainte-Anne, and this is my favorite DSA cuvee. Not a Chateauneuf du Pape, but in many ways a more enjoyable wine.