Chateau Grand Traverse Old Mission Peninsula Whole Cluster Riesling, 2012

On a recent tasting pilgrimage to Old Mission Peninsula in northern Michigan, this was my favorite wine, and I brought home a bottle to share with the family and make sure it was not just a passing fancy. And it was not. This Whole Cluster Riesling still ranks as one of my all-time Michigan favorites.

The label states that "we separately fermented three different Riesling lots from our Bailiwick Vineyard in order to articulate flavors ranging from crisp apple to ripe peach." That probably trumps anything I could say to describe the wine. Yes, crisp apple. Yes, ripe peach. Perfectly defined aromas and flavors. Ripe and peachy on the inside framed by crisp acidity. What I like most is the rich mid-palate presence.
When I was tasting a range of well made wines at this estate, this one clearly stood out at the moment and in my memory. I'll go back for more.

Reserve Perrin Cotes du Rhone, 2009

Whatever the appellation, whatever the price point, you can always depend on getting a high quality wine from the Perrin Brothers of Chateau Beaucastel and Le Vieille Ferme. I paid $9.99 at World Market for this very good Cotes du Rhone.

Beautiful deep ruby color. Very fragrant--Southern Rhones spices and herbs galore. Dark cherries more than berries with Mourvedre violets. High-toned acidity right now but this should fade in six months or so. Long, distinguished finish.

Domaine la Monardiere Les Calades Vacqueyras, 2007

This is the least expensive of three cuvees of Vacqueyras produced at Domaine la Monardiere. That's the reason I buy it, and it's always a very good wine for around $20 a bottle. The estate recommends that it be consumed after 3 to 5 years (compared to 4 to 6 for Les 2 Monardes and 8 to 10 for La Vieille Vignes) because that is when the spicy fruit should be showing best.

Very deep and dark./ Ripe, spicy fruit is at the forefront, as it should be. Black plums and berries, coffee and cassis (as opposed to the black licorice that I usually get from Vacqueyras minerals). Plummy sweet fruit tannins on the mid-palate, smooth and approachable. This wine is at a perfect stage for drinking; I have often waited a bit too long with past vintages. The 2007 is a tad ripe for my taste, and leans slightly toward an international style (barriques?), but others at the table like it immensely.

Domaine la Monardiere, I understand, has been using organic farming methods for several years and can take full credit starting with the 2010 vintage. All grapes here are picked by hand.

Costa di Bussia Barbera d'Alba, 2010

I usually think of Barbera as a Pinot Noir type wine--more finesse than power. This Costa di Bussia Barbera d'Alba has both, although I think it's a few years away from showing its best.

Very deep ruby. Even the aromas seem velvety--dark cherries and dark spices. Also some flowers. Very rich and smooth on the palate. Very cherry, deep and intriguing, but flavors not well defined at this point. Tannins are ripe and soft but very apparent. I can sense a lot of flavors just waiting to be uncovered. 

This is a wine that I'd like to follow over the next several years.

Londer Vineyards Anderson Valley Pinot Noir, 2008

The forest fires that threatened northern California in 2008 are now threatening the longevity of this Londer Pinot Noir. The smokiness that permeated the grape skins in that vintage have been apparent from the beginning but they seem increasingly more prominent as the wine ages. That was what the winemaker suspected when he sold off the vintage at a steep discount.

Smoke is about all I can smell tonight, but I get delicate Pinot fruit on the palate. Cranberries, pie spices and a hint of pepper. And, of course, some smoke on the finish. I still have a few more bottles I need to drink soon.

NV Scharffenberger Cellars Anderson Valley Brut Excellence

Scharffenberger Cellars established itself as a sparkling wine producer in the Anderson Valley in 1981--several years before Roederer, a top Champagne producer, explored the West Coast and chose a site right next door for its U.S. operations. In order to expand its vineyards, Roederer recently purchased Scharffenberger, but the wine has maintained its distinctive style and is an excellent representative of California sparkling wine.

Very small and very persistent bubbles--a good sign. Apple and citrus, very fresh and refreshing. Dances lightly on the palate but has a creamy texture and some yeasty, bread dough traits. Good flavor depth and a long finish. We tasted this alongside the very good L. Mawby Talismon Brut, but the Scharffenberger was clearly superior for my taste.

I found the Scharffenberger for $16 at World Market, a great value for a sparkler of this quality.

Domaine Rabasse Charavin Cotes du Rhone Villages Cairanne, 2004

I was lucky enough to acquire nearly a case of this beautiful Cairanne for a song at a Winebid.com auction. It is fully mature and at a beautiful stage for drinking.

Good deep ruby color. Red berries, cherries, lavender and garrigue--eveything you expect from a fine Cairanne. There is a bit of crinkly maturity showing in the bouquet, but, at least for me, it is very pleasant. This wine has always had more tartness or dryness than I expect from Cairanne, that, too, is a positive quality. The grapes clearly did not have the same level of ripeness that most 2003 and 2007 Rhones exhibited. But they also show more precise and focused fruit definition.

Corinne Couturier's Rabasse Charavin Cairanne has earned a place alongside Domaine de l'Oratoire Saint Martin in my personal Cairanne Hall of Fame.