Wednesday, December 31, 2025

Indigenous Selection Nebbiolo d'Alba, 2015

If you go looking for Nebbiolo d'Alba, as I frequently do, you will probably find Indigenous Selection as one of the lowest priced options (about $16). Give it a try, and it won't disappoint you. It comes from young (12 to 15 year old) vines in the Roero area across the river from Alba; yet it has most of the traits that I expect in even the highest priced Barolos and Barbarescos.

Bright, medium ruby. Very aromatic: violets, rose petals, dark cherries, anise seed. At 10 years, the smells and flavors are clean, bright and fresh. Very fruit forward but not at all simple. Has the depth and complexity that you expect from Nebbiolo. It's on my buy list.
 

Tuesday, December 30, 2025

La Chiamata Montepulciano Riserva, 2020

Most Montepulciano wines I have had were relatively light bodied, fruity and easy to drink. This Chiamata Riserva is big boned with substantial tannin and oaky spice.

Very dark. Black berries, dark cherries and layers of black licorice. Full bodied and rich, almost like a Ripasso in its fruit concentration. Drinking well now but enough acid and tannin to carry it for many years.

I bought this wine from Wall Street Journal Wines as a Montepulciano Challenge--three bottlers of La Chiamata and three bottles of Roma Rosso. Both were very good, but I think my vote goes to the Roma. Here are my notes for the Roma: 

Deep, dark and bright. Very aromatic from the time the cork is popped. Dark cherries, black berries with a touch of cinnamon and dark chocolate on the finish. Good concentration, this is a serious wine. Plenty of acid, plenty of tannin--maybe a bit too much for current drinking.


 

Monday, December 29, 2025

Cotes du Rhone Reserve del Puech Vieilles Vignes, 2022

When I saw this wine on the shelf for $8.99 at MegaBev (formerly Russo & Sons) in Grand Rapids, I was hoping it would be an easy drinking, but serious, Cote du Rhone like the ones I enjoyed so often through the late 1980s and early 1990s. Drinking it tonight, I am not disappointed.

Medium dark ruby red. 60% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 10% Carignan. Syrah elegance showing. Black raspberries, currants, cassis. Rich texture, concentrated flavors. Dark chocolate/black pepper on the fruit driven finish. This is what I expect from a Cotes du Rhone, and it is very hard to find today at this price point.
 

Friday, December 26, 2025

Domaine de Beaurenard Chateauneuf du Pape, 1998

Beaurenard is a gem that often gets overlooked in discussions about the great wines of Chateauneuf du Pape. And some have argued that 1998 may be the estate's best of all time. It is aging very well and may have more positive development to come.

Wow! This wine, at 27 years of age, just shouts freshness. Cherries, black and red, as well as strawberries, blue plums spice and pepper. More acid and more tannin than the Vieux Donjon but still with a savory/sweet Chateaueuf profile. This has much to recommend it, and two of us rated it as Wine of the Day until we went back for a second go at the Vieux Donjon. In terms of aging, 1998 was a controversial Southern Rhone vintage (too ripe for some critics), but these are two wines that have aged admirably.
 

Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf du Pape, 1998

This 1998 Vieux Donjon was named #1 Wine of the Year by both the Wine Advocate and the Wine Spectator. It is still a spectacular wine and was generally accepted as the Wine of the Day, against strong competition, at our roast lamb Christmas dinner.

Bricking moving in from the edges. Deep, layered fruit, ripe and lovely. Fairly low acidity for a Chateauneuf but that makes it taste even more luxurious. Salty, savory notes frame the ripe, luscious middle.
 

Elyse Hudson Vineyard Le Corbeau, 2006

Le Corbeau is 90% Grenache, 10% Syrah grown in prime vineyards in Carneros and produced with the intent to emulate, as the label states, "the great wines of Chateauneuf du Pape." I served this magnum as an into to two of the finest Chateauneufs, 1998 Vieux 'Donjon and 1998 Beauenard. Of course, it did not really measure up to these wines, but it did not embarrass itself.

Some rusty tones in the medium maroon color as to be expected. Ripe strawberries and spice very reminiscent of traditional Southern Rhone wines. Great texture. A wine that seduces you rather rather than bowling you over. Has matured well but probably isn't going to last as long as a traditional Chateauneuf du Pape.

 

Thursday, December 25, 2025

Best's Great Western Concongella Vineyard Sparkling Shiraz, 2019

Because we are half Australian, through Donna, it is a traditiion in our family to have sparkling Shiraz with brunch on Christmas day. The wine is unique to Australia and recently it's been difficult to find in Michigan any sparkling Shiraz that is not overpoweringly sweet. Finally, through Saratoga Wine Exchange in Saratoga New York, I located a winner.

Dark Shiraz tones in color, smells and flavors. Mulberries, blackberries, spice and black pepper.Best's has some of the oldest and finest Shiraz vineyards in Australia, and all the good Shiraz traits come through in this unique sparkling wine. 
 

Wednesday, December 24, 2025

Cave Cooperative de Donnas Vallee d'Aoste Donnas, 2015

I was attracted to this wine because I am married to a Donna. And the wine, I discovered, is almost as beautiful as she is. Donnas is, of course, an area in northern Italy, and the vines, I presume, grow right out of the rocky cliff face. as they do in most parts of the Vallee d'Aoste.It is a rugged environment that brings out the best in wine grapes. This Donnas  is 90% Nebbiolo, known in the area as Picotendro, and 10% Freisa and Neyret.

Rusty ruby/garnet Nebbiolo color. Glorious scents of flowers and wild berries. Cranberries, tart cherries, delicate but intense and powerful. Rose petals, violets, herbs, forest floor. Has been aged 12 to 24 months in large Slavonian oak barrels. Barolo with a mineral edge and lighter tannins. No apologies; this is a special wine.
 

Carlo Boffa Barbera d'Alba Buschet, 2016

Carlo Boffa has excellent vineyards in the Barbaresco area. His Barbera d'Alba Buschet is also very good, though made more for every day drinking.

From a 1500 ml bottle. Dark ruby red. Expressive bouquet. Red and black cherries, some herbal tones. Low tannin, high acidity typical of Barbera. Well balanced for drinking right now.
 

Tuesday, December 23, 2025

J.L. Chave Selection St. Joseph Offerus, 1998

I remember trying this 1998 St. Joseph soon after it was released. Brian, the owner of Bacchus Wines (now defunct), recommended it highly, and I agreed, buying another six bottles. Now, 25 years later, I am even more enamoured, even though it has changed immensely as a result of aging.

The color is much lighter, of course. Brickish red. The bouquet has less fresh fruit and more earthy, autumnal scents. Leaner on the mid-palate but with a tensile strength like a fine Pinot Noir. Savory, salty nuances that linger so beautifully. This is the magic that only comes with age and only with the few wines worth aging. Reminds me a lot of some of my favorite Domaine Thalabert (Paul Jaboulet Crozes Hermitage) wines from the 1980s.
 

Penfolds Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz, 2005

Australian rack of lamb, Australian Shiraz--that's a good match, recognized by all at the table.

Deep and dark, looks young for a 20-year-old wine. Strong black fruit smells and flavors--blackberries, black raspberries, menthol, some floral tones. and French oak spices. We have had this wine several times over the past decade, and it has evolved a bit but still has the same black fruit Shiraz personality.
 

Monday, December 22, 2025

Antonio Federici Roma Rosso, 2022

I have had many Montepulciano wines, most notably at the former Vineyard Pizza place in South Haven, MI. They were all enjoyable wines, but this Roma (60% Montepulciano and 40% Cesaneste) is a clear step up from any Montepulciano I have had.

Deep, dark and bright. Very aromatic from the time the cork is popped. Dark cherries, black berries with a touch of cinnamon and dark chocolate on the finish. Good concentration, this is a serious wine. Plenty of acid, plenty of tannin--maybe a bit too much for current drinking.

I bought this through a special offered by Wall Street Journal Wines through an ad in the Sunday New York Times.
 

Saturday, December 20, 2025

Willamette Valley Vineyards Estate Chardonnay, 2016

Tasting this wine alongside the estate's 2022 Dijon Clone Chardonnay, it becomes clear that age does matter with Willamette Valley Chardonnay. But there are other differences in play as well. The Estate Chardonnay comes from three different vineyards, all on volcanic, sedimentary soil and has a bit more oak maturation. The current vintage of the Estate Chardonnay sells for $39 compared to $29 for the Dijon Clone.

Deep gold, not much darker than the younger wine beside it. The nose is much more expressive: wildflowers, lemon, honey, yeast and minerals. Very rich on the mid-palate--lemon curd, creme brulee. Clean, mineral driven finish. A real treat.

Probably because bidders were leery of a nine-year-old Chardonay, I got this bottle and another for $15 each on WineBid. 
 

Thursday, December 18, 2025

Willamette Valley Vineyards Dijon Clone Chardonnay, 2022

I am learning that Oregon Chardonnays require at least a bit of aging. We had our last bottle of the 2017 Dijon Clone Chardonnay in October, and it was showing beautifully. This 2022 is very good but still lacks the complexity that we got from the eight-year-old wine.

Medium deep gold, bright and clear. Needs some warmth and aeration to open up. Honeydew melon, guava, citrus and, finally, some savory tones on the finish. Still lacks the lemon curd, honey flavors that developed in the 2017. They will come, I assume, if I have enough patience.
 

Tuesday, December 16, 2025

Mildara Barossa Valley Cabernet Shiraz, 2021

Mildara was one of the first wineries in Coonawarra, now recognized as one of the finest sources of Cabernet and Shiraz. Grapes for this wine do not come from the estate but from vineyards in the Barossa Valley to the north--apparently less distinguished vineyards because the wine is sold for $5.99 at Trader Joe's.

Deep and dark. Blackberries, blue plums, cassis, chocolate and vanilla. Full bodied (14.5%) but not overly okay. 73% Cabernet with Shiraz that admirably fills the mid-palate. with a Rich texture. This is a good example of Barossa Cabernet Shiraz even it it lacks the nobility (and price) of Coonawarra fruit. For $5.99, of course, it is an excellent value.
 

Saturday, December 13, 2025

Cave Gargantua Labie Valle d'Aosta Torrette Superieure, 2020

I have been to northern Italy and seen the grape vines growing out of the rocky mountain face. In such an inhospitable environment the smells and flavors seem to huddle together, beneath the grape peels, creating a concentration that is highly desirable in wine. At nearly six years of age, this wine is just stepping out as a full fledged adult but has many fine years ahead of it.

Very dark maroon color. One year in large seasoned oak barrels and then six months in stainless steel before bottling. Exotic scents of violets, wild blueberries, huckleberries, spices and minerals. Full bodied but delicate, nuanced flavors that coat the tongue. Deep, concentrated finish.

Thursday, December 11, 2025

Curto Marco di Nadia Curto Langhe Rosso L'Informale, 2023

 

I ordinarily cellar Nebbiolos from Italy's Piedmont for a few years, even generic Langhe Nebbiolos. But this L'Informale from Nadia Curto seems to me the perfect every day wine to be consumed early and often It is a blend of 60% Nebbiolo (picked in late October) and 40% Dolcetto (picked in late October), both aged in stainless steel.

Brilliant maroon, vlolet color. Has all the entrancing smells of Nebbiolo at its best: roses, cherries, black raspberries, black licorice. Fresh, vibrant flavors dance on the tongue with acidity that keeps you coming back for sip after sip. Plenty of tannins from both grapes, but they provide a structure that enhances rather than blocks the fresh fruit flavors. A good match for almost any food. 

At $18 to $22 a bottle, L'Informale may be a bit pricey for every day use, but for "informal" or even "formal" occasions, the quality is hard to beat.

Sunday, December 7, 2025

Rosa dell'Olmo Barbera d'Asti, 2023

If you have $5.99 to splurge on wine at Trader Joe's, you will probably find the best values among the Italian imports. And of the $5.99 Italian bottles I have tried recently, this Barbera d'Asti is the one that satisfies me the most.

Bright ruby, reasonably deep. Fresh fruit in abundance: cherries, plums, red berries. Also spice, minerals and a good measure of black pepper. What pleases me the most is the smooth texture that is rare among wines at this price level. For every day use with pizza or pasta, this Barbera gives me exactly what I want.
 

Friday, December 5, 2025

Joseph Burrier Chateau Beauregard Pouilly Fuisse, 2016

This Pouilly Fuisse comes from a selection of vineyards and is one step down from Joseph Burriers Grande Beauregard Pouilly Fuisse. But it is nevertheless an excellent example of Pouilly Fuisse, the royalty of the Macon appellation. The wine was aged on its lees, 50% in oak and 50%, stainless steel, for a year.

Brilliant gold, light for a 9-year-old Chardonnay. White flowers and fruit on the bouquet. Rich, buttery texture with flavors of toasted brioche and honey with a spicy, slightly citric edge typical of Pouilly Fuisse. Beautiful finish
 

Wednesday, December 3, 2025

Domaine du Seminaire Cotes du Rhone Village Valreas, 2019

Domaine du Seminaire is located in the foothills of the Alps in the northern part of the Southern Rhone.  ThisValreas comes from old vines on clay limestone soil, and the wine is traditionally made, matured in concrete vats. No oak

Deep ruby. 80% Grenache, but the red berry and black pepper traits typical of Grenache are not as prominent as you might think. 10% Syrah and 10% Mourvedre produce darker tones of black and blue berries, blue plums and cassis. Firm tannins but sleek texture on the mid-palate and finish. Beautiful now but will probably improve.