Domaine Schlumberger Kessler Alsace Gewurztraminer, 1983

 It's Chinese New Year, and we're having pork dumplings and Chinese green onion pancakes. It's the perfect meal for Gewurztraminer, but I rarely buy Gewurz because I know no one who would be keen to drink it with me. Deep in the recesses of my cellar, though, I find a dusty bottle that I bought 40-some year ago. Dead or alive?

Deep, deep gold, almost copper colored. Yes there is oxidation but also some pleasant fruit and floral smells and flavors. Rose petals on the nose. Dried figs and apricots on the palate with a pleasant finish. Slightly salty; not as sweet or spicy as I expected. Actually, seems more like a well aged Pinot Gris than a spicy Gewurztraminer. Definitely old but definitely alive.

Willamette Valley Vineyards Dijon Clone Chardonnay, 2017

 After travelling with a group to the French area of Burgundy for advice, Jim Bernau of Willamette Valley Vineyards played a major role in introducing the Dijon clone of Chardonnay into Oregon vineyards. And it was an American Wine Society tasting with Bernau that introduced me to unique qualities of Willamette Valley Chardonnay. 

Medium yellow gold. Enchanting scents that carry over beautifully into the flavors. Ripe pear, white peach with peel, toasted coconut and a touch of honey. Sleek texture with bright acidity and lush fruit flavors. Long, vibrant finish.

Taylor Fladgate 10-Year-Old Tawny Port, NV

Another left-over from the Christmas table, still drinking beautifully.

The color is tawny of course: deep brick with some amber at the edges. Intense but elegant bouquet developed through 10 years or more in the barrel. Ten years refers to the average but with a Taylor Tawny, you can count on a little exaggeration to the up side rather than the down side. Very fine oak frames the complex flavors: ripe red fruits, toasted nuts, chocolate, figs and citrus zest. Very smooth, very long. When I visited Taylor Fladgate about a decade ago, I was particularly impressed with the 20-Year Tawny, and it is undeniably a giant step up. For the price, though, and for more frequent drinking, I am happy with this 10-Year-Old Tawny.
 

Lustau East India Solera Sherry, NV

This bottle was opened during the Christmas season and has been resting since then in the cool cellar. Tonight it tastes even better than it did a month ago, probably because I have more time and energy to savor all it has to offer--which is a lot.

Medium deep garnet. Rich and creamy, as expected but so complex: dates, figs, nuts, maple sugar, toffee, coffee, dark chocolate, orange peel. Great acidity to cut through the sweeness and lead to a profound finish. 
 

Cabriz Dao Portugal DOC, 2014

The Dao wine region in Portugal is mountainous with relatively cool temperatures compared to the rest of Portugal. I find the wines from there to be more elegant and less tannic than those from the Douro. This wine is made from 40% Alfrocheiro, 40% Tinta Roriz (known as Temperanillo in Spain) and 20% Touriga National.

Bright garnet/ruby. Good depth and saturation. Intense fruit on the nose and on the palate. Red fruit, hints of tobacco and black pepper. Great balance. More like Pinot Noir than Temperanillo. I have had several bottles of this over the past five years, and this is probably the best.
 

Tenuta Arnulfo Costa di Bussia Barbera d'Alba, 2016

I had this 2016 Barbera at a tasting at the estate in October of 2019. It was very good at that time and is even better tonight.

Medium deep violet/ruby. Enticing bouquet of black raspberries, flowers and spice. Much of the same on the palate: dark cherries, cloves with white pepper on the finish. Deep fruit, ripe and delicious. Energetic mouth feel that awakens and teases the taste buds. I paid $12.49 for this bottle at D&W in Kalanazoo in March of 2019. More recent vintages have been more expensive.
 

Domaine de la Croix Senaillet Saint-Veran, 2017

The climate and clay/limestone soil around the villages of Saint-Veran and Davaye (where this estate is located) are ideal for growing the crisp, elegant style of Chardonnay that I prefer. It's a style similar to that of Pouilly-Fuisse but usually at a lower price.

Medium deep yellow. Pears, lemons, minerals. Medium bodied. Crisp, elegant, subtle. Full range of flavors on the long, satisfying finish. Seems to be in its prime but has the acidity to keep for at least another year or two. I bought at auction for $15.
 

Hidden Hills Estate McLaren Vale Shiraz, 2021

Inexpensive Australian Shiraz, whether from Trader Joe's or elsewhere, is difficult to find these days. And any such wines that are available are commercially made from high-yield, low quality vineyard fruit from southeast Australia. Hidden Hills Estate, available at my local Trader Joe's store for $5.99, is a notable exception. The grapes come from one of the best appellations for Shiraz, the Fleurieu coast of McLaren Vale. And the wine is very good.

Medium deep ruby/violet. Red as well as black fruit. Rich, ripe Shiraz with a nice acidic edge. Oak that enhances the fruit rather than overwhelming it. And a finish that leaves me ready to come back for more. Tastes to me like a Shiraz that might sell for $15 or more.
 

Elio Sandri (Cascina Disa) Barbera d'Alba Superiore, 2012

I have had several bottles of this Barbera d'Alba since buying it in 2017. This one is by far the best. But, alas, it's the last of the lot.

Medium beet red. Bright with minimal signs of age. In fact, it is just coming into its own. Nebbiolo-like bouquet of rose petals and dark cherry. Same on the palate, and also some Nebbiolo-like black licorice. Tannins that braced earlier bottles have faded away, leaving delectable fruit and mouth watering acidity. An excellent Barbera; reminds me of the Nizza Barbera I had last week.
 

Trader Joe's Grower's Reserve California Chardonnay, 2023

I bought this wine ($5.99 at Trader Joe's) for cooking over the holidays, and it served its purpose. With one bottle left over, I brought it tonight to the dinner table, and it was equally at home in that context.

Medium yellow. Red Haven peaches and canteloupe. Good balance of sweet fruit and bright acidity. Subtle oak. According to the label, the wine is made by ASV Wines from organic fruit. The winery is located in Monterey's Arroyo Seco region, and I suspect at least some of the grapes come from there. For $5.99, it will grace my dinner table again.
 

Mildara Barossa Valley Cabernet Shiraz, 2O21

After a long absence, good value Australian wines are now to be found on the shelves of my local Trader Joe store. This one, selling for $5.99 is a good choice for every day drinking.

Medium dark ruby. Black berries, black currants, coffee and vanilla. Tannins are soft and there is enough acidity to add freshness. 71% Cab, 29% Shiraz. The Shiraz fills doughnut hole in the middle. A great value.
 

Le Piane La Maggiorani Colline Novaresi Rosso, 2015

This amazing wine is from Boca in the mountainous far north of Italy. From 80 to 100 year old vines, it is 40% Nebbiolo, 40% Croatina and 20% miscellaneous indigenous grapes. The soil is very acidic, iron rather than limestone, and is a major feature in the wine.

In the center, the color is quite saturated--bright red with bluish tints. The garnet/orangeish tones of Nebbiolo are noticeable around the rim. With aeration, I get beautiful floral scents--violets and roses--mixed with red and purple fruits. Firm, grippy trannins and concentrated fruit that clings to the palate. Iron and spices, white pepper on the finish. Savory rather than sweet, almost tart in its acidity. Delicious.

This is the entry level red from Le Piane. I paid $17for it in November, 2018 at Eataly in Chicago. Other Boca wines from Le Piane are usually priced at $40 and up. I'm sure they are even more spectacular.

Chateau Feuillet Valle d'Aostra Torrette, 2016

This wine, a Kermit Lynch selection, comes from Valle d'Aosta, a mountainous area in the extreme northwest of Italy, near the border with France. It's a cool climate that gets abundant sunshines. The grapes are Petit Rouge (90%) and Mayolot (10%), and the wine after malolactic fermentation is aged in stainless steel and a small amount of wood for eight monrhs.

Bright red, medium dark. Fresh, fresh, fresh aromas of violets and red fruit. Fruity but very dry on the palate. Essence of red raspberries, red plums, spice and black pepper. Intense flavors that seem to hit all the taste buds. Hard to quit sniffing and sipping.