Wednesday, December 31, 2025

Indigenous Selection Nebbiolo d'Alba, 2015

If you go looking for Nebbiolo d'Alba, as I frequently do, you will probably find Indigenous Selection as one of the lowest priced options (about $16). Give it a try, and it won't disappoint you. It comes from young (12 to 15 year old) vines in the Roero area across the river from Alba; yet it has most of the traits that I expect in even the highest priced Barolos and Barbarescos.

Bright, medium ruby. Very aromatic: violets, rose petals, dark cherries, anise seed. At 10 years, the smells and flavors are clean, bright and fresh. Very fruit forward but not at all simple. Has the depth and complexity that you expect from Nebbiolo. It's on my buy list.
 

Tuesday, December 30, 2025

La Chiamata Montepulciano Riserva, 2020

Most Montepulciano wines I have had were relatively light bodied, fruity and easy to drink. This Chiamata Riserva is big boned with substantial tannin and oaky spice.

Very dark. Black berries, dark cherries and layers of black licorice. Full bodied and rich, almost like a Ripasso in its fruit concentration. Drinking well now but enough acid and tannin to carry it for many years.

I bought this wine from Wall Street Journal Wines as a Montepulciano Challenge--three bottlers of La Chiamata and three bottles of Roma Rosso. Both were very good, but I think my vote goes to the Roma. Here are my notes for the Roma: 

Deep, dark and bright. Very aromatic from the time the cork is popped. Dark cherries, black berries with a touch of cinnamon and dark chocolate on the finish. Good concentration, this is a serious wine. Plenty of acid, plenty of tannin--maybe a bit too much for current drinking.


 

Monday, December 29, 2025

Cotes du Rhone Reserve del Puech Vieilles Vignes, 2022

When I saw this wine on the shelf for $8.99 at MegaBev (formerly Russo & Sons) in Grand Rapids, I was hoping it would be an easy drinking, but serious, Cote du Rhone like the ones I enjoyed so often through the late 1980s and early 1990s. Drinking it tonight, I am not disappointed.

Medium dark ruby red. 60% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 10% Carignan. Syrah elegance showing. Black raspberries, currants, cassis. Rich texture, concentrated flavors. Dark chocolate/black pepper on the fruit driven finish. This is what I expect from a Cotes du Rhone, and it is very hard to find today at this price point.
 

Friday, December 26, 2025

Domaine de Beaurenard Chateauneuf du Pape, 1998

Beaurenard is a gem that often gets overlooked in discussions about the great wines of Chateauneuf du Pape. And some have argued that 1998 may be the estate's best of all time. It is aging very well and may have more positive development to come.

Wow! This wine, at 27 years of age, just shouts freshness. Cherries, black and red, as well as strawberries, blue plums spice and pepper. More acid and more tannin than the Vieux Donjon but still with a savory/sweet Chateaueuf profile. This has much to recommend it, and two of us rated it as Wine of the Day until we went back for a second go at the Vieux Donjon. In terms of aging, 1998 was a controversial Southern Rhone vintage (too ripe for some critics), but these are two wines that have aged admirably.
 

Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf du Pape, 1998

This 1998 Vieux Donjon was named #1 Wine of the Year by both the Wine Advocate and the Wine Spectator. It is still a spectacular wine and was generally accepted as the Wine of the Day, against strong competition, at our roast lamb Christmas dinner.

Bricking moving in from the edges. Deep, layered fruit, ripe and lovely. Fairly low acidity for a Chateauneuf but that makes it taste even more luxurious. Salty, savory notes frame the ripe, luscious middle.
 

Elyse Hudson Vineyard Le Corbeau, 2006

Le Corbeau is 90% Grenache, 10% Syrah grown in prime vineyards in Carneros and produced with the intent to emulate, as the label states, "the great wines of Chateauneuf du Pape." I served this magnum as an into to two of the finest Chateauneufs, 1998 Vieux 'Donjon and 1998 Beauenard. Of course, it did not really measure up to these wines, but it did not embarrass itself.

Some rusty tones in the medium maroon color as to be expected. Ripe strawberries and spice very reminiscent of traditional Southern Rhone wines. Great texture. A wine that seduces you rather rather than bowling you over. Has matured well but probably isn't going to last as long as a traditional Chateauneuf du Pape.

 

Thursday, December 25, 2025

Best's Great Western Concongella Vineyard Sparkling Shiraz, 2019

Because we are half Australian, through Donna, it is a traditiion in our family to have sparkling Shiraz with brunch on Christmas day. The wine is unique to Australia and recently it's been difficult to find in Michigan any sparkling Shiraz that is not overpoweringly sweet. Finally, through Saratoga Wine Exchange in Saratoga New York, I located a winner.

Dark Shiraz tones in color, smells and flavors. Mulberries, blackberries, spice and black pepper.Best's has some of the oldest and finest Shiraz vineyards in Australia, and all the good Shiraz traits come through in this unique sparkling wine. 
 

Wednesday, December 24, 2025

Cave Cooperative de Donnas Vallee d'Aoste Donnas, 2015

I was attracted to this wine because I am married to a Donna. And the wine, I discovered, is almost as beautiful as she is. Donnas is, of course, an area in northern Italy, and the vines, I presume, grow right out of the rocky cliff face. as they do in most parts of the Vallee d'Aoste.It is a rugged environment that brings out the best in wine grapes. This Donnas  is 90% Nebbiolo, known in the area as Picotendro, and 10% Freisa and Neyret.

Rusty ruby/garnet Nebbiolo color. Glorious scents of flowers and wild berries. Cranberries, tart cherries, delicate but intense and powerful. Rose petals, violets, herbs, forest floor. Has been aged 12 to 24 months in large Slavonian oak barrels. Barolo with a mineral edge and lighter tannins. No apologies; this is a special wine.
 

Carlo Boffa Barbera d'Alba Buschet, 2016

Carlo Boffa has excellent vineyards in the Barbaresco area. His Barbera d'Alba Buschet is also very good, though made more for every day drinking.

From a 1500 ml bottle. Dark ruby red. Expressive bouquet. Red and black cherries, some herbal tones. Low tannin, high acidity typical of Barbera. Well balanced for drinking right now.
 

Tuesday, December 23, 2025

J.L. Chave Selection St. Joseph Offerus, 1998

I remember trying this 1998 St. Joseph soon after it was released. Brian, the owner of Bacchus Wines (now defunct), recommended it highly, and I agreed, buying another six bottles. Now, 25 years later, I am even more enamoured, even though it has changed immensely as a result of aging.

The color is much lighter, of course. Brickish red. The bouquet has less fresh fruit and more earthy, autumnal scents. Leaner on the mid-palate but with a tensile strength like a fine Pinot Noir. Savory, salty nuances that linger so beautifully. This is the magic that only comes with age and only with the few wines worth aging. Reminds me a lot of some of my favorite Domaine Thalabert (Paul Jaboulet Crozes Hermitage) wines from the 1980s.
 

Penfolds Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz, 2005

Australian rack of lamb, Australian Shiraz--that's a good match, recognized by all at the table.

Deep and dark, looks young for a 20-year-old wine. Strong black fruit smells and flavors--blackberries, black raspberries, menthol, some floral tones. and French oak spices. We have had this wine several times over the past decade, and it has evolved a bit but still has the same black fruit Shiraz personality.
 

Monday, December 22, 2025

Antonio Federici Roma Rosso, 2022

I have had many Montepulciano wines, most notably at the former Vineyard Pizza place in South Haven, MI. They were all enjoyable wines, but this Roma (60% Montepulciano and 40% Cesaneste) is a clear step up from any Montepulciano I have had.

Deep, dark and bright. Very aromatic from the time the cork is popped. Dark cherries, black berries with a touch of cinnamon and dark chocolate on the finish. Good concentration, this is a serious wine. Plenty of acid, plenty of tannin--maybe a bit too much for current drinking.

I bought this through a special offered by Wall Street Journal Wines through an ad in the Sunday New York Times.
 

Saturday, December 20, 2025

Willamette Valley Vineyards Estate Chardonnay, 2016

Tasting this wine alongside the estate's 2022 Dijon Clone Chardonnay, it becomes clear that age does matter with Willamette Valley Chardonnay. But there are other differences in play as well. The Estate Chardonnay comes from three different vineyards, all on volcanic, sedimentary soil and has a bit more oak maturation. The current vintage of the Estate Chardonnay sells for $39 compared to $29 for the Dijon Clone.

Deep gold, not much darker than the younger wine beside it. The nose is much more expressive: wildflowers, lemon, honey, yeast and minerals. Very rich on the mid-palate--lemon curd, creme brulee. Clean, mineral driven finish. A real treat.

Probably because bidders were leery of a nine-year-old Chardonay, I got this bottle and another for $15 each on WineBid. 
 

Thursday, December 18, 2025

Willamette Valley Vineyards Dijon Clone Chardonnay, 2022

I am learning that Oregon Chardonnays require at least a bit of aging. We had our last bottle of the 2017 Dijon Clone Chardonnay in October, and it was showing beautifully. This 2022 is very good but still lacks the complexity that we got from the eight-year-old wine.

Medium deep gold, bright and clear. Needs some warmth and aeration to open up. Honeydew melon, guava, citrus and, finally, some savory tones on the finish. Still lacks the lemon curd, honey flavors that developed in the 2017. They will come, I assume, if I have enough patience.
 

Tuesday, December 16, 2025

Mildara Barossa Valley Cabernet Shiraz, 2021

Mildara was one of the first wineries in Coonawarra, now recognized as one of the finest sources of Cabernet and Shiraz. Grapes for this wine do not come from the estate but from vineyards in the Barossa Valley to the north--apparently less distinguished vineyards because the wine is sold for $5.99 at Trader Joe's.

Deep and dark. Blackberries, blue plums, cassis, chocolate and vanilla. Full bodied (14.5%) but not overly okay. 73% Cabernet with Shiraz that admirably fills the mid-palate. with a Rich texture. This is a good example of Barossa Cabernet Shiraz even it it lacks the nobility (and price) of Coonawarra fruit. For $5.99, of course, it is an excellent value.
 

Saturday, December 13, 2025

Cave Gargantua Labie Valle d'Aosta Torrette Superieure, 2020

I have been to northern Italy and seen the grape vines growing out of the rocky mountain face. In such an inhospitable environment the smells and flavors seem to huddle together, beneath the grape peels, creating a concentration that is highly desirable in wine. At nearly six years of age, this wine is just stepping out as a full fledged adult but has many fine years ahead of it.

Very dark maroon color. One year in large seasoned oak barrels and then six months in stainless steel before bottling. Exotic scents of violets, wild blueberries, huckleberries, spices and minerals. Full bodied but delicate, nuanced flavors that coat the tongue. Deep, concentrated finish.

Thursday, December 11, 2025

Curto Marco di Nadia Curto Langhe Rosso L'Informale, 2023

 

I ordinarily cellar Nebbiolos from Italy's Piedmont for a few years, even generic Langhe Nebbiolos. But this L'Informale from Nadia Curto seems to me the perfect every day wine to be consumed early and often It is a blend of 60% Nebbiolo (picked in late October) and 40% Dolcetto (picked in late October), both aged in stainless steel.

Brilliant maroon, vlolet color. Has all the entrancing smells of Nebbiolo at its best: roses, cherries, black raspberries, black licorice. Fresh, vibrant flavors dance on the tongue with acidity that keeps you coming back for sip after sip. Plenty of tannins from both grapes, but they provide a structure that enhances rather than blocks the fresh fruit flavors. A good match for almost any food. 

At $18 to $22 a bottle, L'Informale may be a bit pricey for every day use, but for "informal" or even "formal" occasions, the quality is hard to beat.

Sunday, December 7, 2025

Rosa dell'Olmo Barbera d'Asti, 2023

If you have $5.99 to splurge on wine at Trader Joe's, you will probably find the best values among the Italian imports. And of the $5.99 Italian bottles I have tried recently, this Barbera d'Asti is the one that satisfies me the most.

Bright ruby, reasonably deep. Fresh fruit in abundance: cherries, plums, red berries. Also spice, minerals and a good measure of black pepper. What pleases me the most is the smooth texture that is rare among wines at this price level. For every day use with pizza or pasta, this Barbera gives me exactly what I want.
 

Friday, December 5, 2025

Joseph Burrier Chateau Beauregard Pouilly Fuisse, 2016

This Pouilly Fuisse comes from a selection of vineyards and is one step down from Joseph Burriers Grande Beauregard Pouilly Fuisse. But it is nevertheless an excellent example of Pouilly Fuisse, the royalty of the Macon appellation. The wine was aged on its lees, 50% in oak and 50%, stainless steel, for a year.

Brilliant gold, light for a 9-year-old Chardonnay. White flowers and fruit on the bouquet. Rich, buttery texture with flavors of toasted brioche and honey with a spicy, slightly citric edge typical of Pouilly Fuisse. Beautiful finish
 

Wednesday, December 3, 2025

Domaine du Seminaire Cotes du Rhone Village Valreas, 2019

Domaine du Seminaire is located in the foothills of the Alps in the northern part of the Southern Rhone.  ThisValreas comes from old vines on clay limestone soil, and the wine is traditionally made, matured in concrete vats. No oak

Deep ruby. 80% Grenache, but the red berry and black pepper traits typical of Grenache are not as prominent as you might think. 10% Syrah and 10% Mourvedre produce darker tones of black and blue berries, blue plums and cassis. Firm tannins but sleek texture on the mid-palate and finish. Beautiful now but will probably improve.

Saturday, November 29, 2025

Domaine du Pegau Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reservee, 1989

When I first started drinking wine in the late 1970s, Vieux Telegraph and Beaucastel were only Chateauneufs imported into my marketing area in Michigan.  They were and are great wines; I bought and loved both. A decade later, J.C. Mathes, a professor of technical writing at the University of Michigan, traveled to the Rhone, formed J et R Wines and started importing a large portfolio of excellent Southern Rhones into the state and surrounding area. Domaine du Pegau was one of his selections, and I immediately fell in love with it, a liaison that continues to this day, even though the wine, now selling for about $100 a bottle, is no longer within my wine buying budget. 1989 was my introduction to Pegau, and it is still my favorite.

Dark crimson, still bright; lightening at the borders. It takes awhile for the bouquet to open but it is well worth the wait. Very aromatic: cherries, earth, rosemary and thyme. And the flavors are even more enticing. Full bodied and rich. Sweet fruit backed by savory tones of tobacco, sea salt and black olives. Powerful, powerful finish. The perfect match for rack of lamb.

Friday, November 28, 2025

Salexis Napa Valley Beckstoffer Carneros Lake Vineyard Chardonnay, 2019

This Salexis wine has all of the qualities associated with top-rated California Chardonnay in a very attractive package.

Deep gold, looks more mature than it is. Lively smells and flavors--tropical fruit, oak, toasted brioche, butter, vanilla, a touch of honey. Rich and full bodied but equally fresh and vibrant. Would be very enjoyable on its own or at the dinner table. 

Nothing cheap about this wine. It sells for about $30 but I bought it for a bit less through Wine Spies.
 

Thursday, November 27, 2025

Chateau Poujeaux Moulis-en-Medoc, 1982

I may have consumed my half case of 2005 Greysac too early, but I probably waited a bit long to finish my half case of 1982 Poujaeaux, purchased more than 40 years ago. Compared to the bottles I had in 2015 and 2016, this bottle is showing some decline. Nevertheless, it is still very enjoyable so I am not at all disappointed.

Medium ruby, still almost as dark as the 2005 Greysac but shading to garnet a bit earlier. Red currants and cherries here plus cassis, leather and cedar. Still has that Poujeaux charm on the mid-palate; ripe and generous. Memories of past greatness show up on the lovely finish.
 

Wednesday, November 26, 2025

Chateau Greysac Medoc, 2005

 

I am often, with good reason, accused of holding on to wines too long in the cellar. To be honest, though, over the years I  remember more regrets from drinking  a wine too early than too late. Such is the case with this 2005 Greysac. I bought half a case for $12 a bottle in 2012, and this, the last bottle, is clearly the best of the lot with more in the tank.

Deep color with some bricking at the edges. Classic Bordeaux bouquet has developed. Black currants, cassis. Medium bodied with silky texture. Seems rather straightforward and unassuming but gains considerable depth and complexity through the course of the meal. 

I have bought many vintages of Greysac and, because of the price and reputation, have never taken the estate all that seriously in terms of aging. For the excellent 2005 vintage, at least, I was wrong.

Saturday, November 22, 2025

DeLille Cellars Roofline Oregon Chardonnay, 2020

DeLille Cellars is located in Washington and specializes in Bordeaux-style wines. Chardonnay, obviously, is not grown in Bordeaux, and the grapes for Roofline come from Oregon.

Medium deep gold. Lively smells of flowers, lime and melon. Has an acidic edge and mineral flavors I associate with Oregon Chardonnay. At this stage of development, I don't detect the lemon curd texture I love in Chardonnays from Willakenzie, Willamette Valley Vineyards and Sokol Blosser wines. For a general Oregon appellation  (not even Willamette Valley), however, Roofline offers an impressive array of complex, savory smells and flavors.
 

Thursday, November 20, 2025

G.D. Vajra Clare JC Langhe Nebbiolo, 2022

G.D. Vajra has excellent vineyards and makes some of the best, and highly priced, Barolos. The estate also produces excellent wines for mid-week consumption such as the G.D. Vajra Rosso, which I buy as often as possible. This Clare JC, which the estate created to emulate the Barolos of two and three hundred years ago, falls into the same category--light and fresh, highlighting the beauty of the Nebbiolo grape. It sells for about $20 a bottle.

Medium light garnet. Fresh berries more than cherries, violets more than roses. but unmistakeably Piedmont Nebbiolo. Aromas and flavors that expand over the course of the meal. Crisp on the mid-palate, ripe on the finish. Not a Barolo but not a quaffer. Clearly a wine that demands to be taken seriously. For $20, I am a buyer.
 

Tuesday, November 18, 2025

Rosa dell'Olmo Langhe Nebbiolo, 2022

Priced at $7.99 at Trader Joe's, this has to be one of least expensive Nebbiolos available anywhere. But while ir may lack the majesty of Barolo and Barbaresco, it is unmistakeably Nebbiolo and an excellent value.

Light ruby/garnet n color with orangish tones typical of Nebbiolo that has not been aged in barriques--a plus for me. Has all the classic smells and flavors--cherries, roses, violets, raspberries and a touch of black licorice--understated but clearly present. Also that characteristic dryness on the mid-palate, even though the wine is surprisingly high (4.g/L) in residual sugar. (Acidity is 5.5 g/L.) Light in body and power for a Nebbiolo but that doesn't detract from its presence at the dinner table. It goes very well with an Autumn vegetable-oriented meal. 

Will it age? I really don't know but I have never met a Nebbiolo wine that didn't gain complexity and depth with several years in the bottle.

Sunday, November 16, 2025

Tinazzi Valpolicello Ripasso Superiore Collezione di Famiglia, 2018

If you haven't tried a Ripasso, it's time you do so. It's a close relative of Amarone that gives much of the richnerss of Amarone at a lower price. Amarone is made from a combination of fresh and dried grapes. Ripasso blends fresh Valpolicello wine with the leftover grape skins and seeds from the making of Amarone and ferments it a second time, a process that adds complexity, body, tannins and richness. This Ripasso from Tinazzi, purchased for $14.99 from MegaBev (formerly Russo's) in Grand Rapids a couple of years ago, is probably the richest, most complex Ripasso I have had and among the best wines I have tasted over the past five years.

Bold, dark color as expected. Incredibly complex bouquet: raspberries, dark cherries, vanilla, chocolate...and more. Rich texture with layer after layer of deep, complex flavors. By nature, Ripasso is slightly sweet, but you wouldn't know it because of the bold, delightfully bitter tannins on the finish. Opens with a flourish, ends with an bang.
 

Friday, November 14, 2025

Cartograph Wines Mendocino Ridge Perli Vineyard Pinot Noir, 2013

Mendocino Ridge is always one of my search terms when I browse for wine. I have had some extraordinary bottles from this AVA, a cool climate area hanging above the Anderson Valley and the north Pacific Coast. It is a non-contiguous area, but only elevations above 1200 feet qualify. This is my first encounter with Cartograph Wines, and it is a pleasing one.

Darker than most Pinots in color. Also darker in smells and flavors. At 1800 feet, the Perli Vineyard is above the fog line and, as a result, gets more exposure to sunlight. Black and blue berries, flowers, anise seed and earth. Ripe and friendly with a nice acidic edge. Drinks beautifully now but has good tannic structure for aging.
 

Tuesday, November 11, 2025

Willakenzie Estate Willamette Valley Chardonnay, 2018

 Even though the appellation for this wine is simply Willamette Valley, 70% of the fruit comes from the estate (Yamhill-Carlton) with the other 30% from nearby Dundee Hills--both excellent AVAs for both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Color turning from yellow to light gold, bright and clear. Chardonnay apple and citrus in an elegant package. Lemon curd, savory spices, white peaches, honey and a touch of butter. Combines intensity and richness. Long, satisfying, complex finish.

Sunday, November 2, 2025

Costa di Bussia Barbera d'Alba, 2016

 

Vineyards for this wine are on the Bussia Hill near Monforte d'Alba, a beautiful area in the Piedmont hills. Donna and I spent several days at the estate's B&B in 2019.

Medium ruby, has lightened a bit over the last few years. Cherries, dark berries, earth, a touch of clove. Medium bodied, rich texture, characteristic Barbera acidity. This wine has spent some time in new oak but tannins have softened and ripe fruit is showing through. Delicious, medium long finish.

Paul Jaboulet Domaine Thalabert Crozes-Hermitage, 1996

Even though it is now 29 years old, I had no hesitation opening a bottle of the 1996 Domaine Thalabert Crozes Hermitage. Thalaberts from the 1980s and early 1990s in my cellar have demonstrated the ageworthiness of this estate and this vineyard.

Cork is long and shows only a tiny line of red at the lower end. Medium dark ruby, clear and bright. Has the Thalabert profile and personality. Black currants, cassis, leather. Ripe, almost lush but with characteristic intensity and acidity. Long, complex Thalabert finish. Probably not as good nor as ageworthy as Thalaberts from the 1980s or early 1990s but still very good.
 

Saturday, November 1, 2025

ici/la bas Elke Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir, 2009


Crafted by Jim Clendenen of Au Bon Climat from fruit sourced from Mary Elke's Donnelly Creek Vineyard, ici/la bas is a long-time favorite of mine. I loved the wines from 1996, 1997 and 2006. This 2009 may be a tad less intense but nevertheless a special wine.

Medium light ruby shading to garnet. Wild red raspberries and cranberries, leather and spice. Ripe fruit with pleasing acidity. Medium long finish. Not as intense as the 2006 but no complaints.

Tuesday, October 28, 2025

Epicuro Puglia Aglianico, 2022

The meal featured spinach pie, Greek lemon potatoes and Greek salad with feta cheese. I chose this wine to accompany it because it has a sneaky amount of sweetness to counter the salty, lemony flavors of the meal. It worked well.

Deep and dark. Blackberries, dark cherries and spice. Lush and smooth. 13% alcohol and residual sugar that is just below what many tasters detect. Well received. We also had the 2024 version which was more fruit forward but not quite as smooth or aromatic. For $5.99 at Trader Joe's, this and other wines from Epicuro are excellent values.
 

Sunday, October 26, 2025

Notre Dame des Pallieres l'Olivet Cotes Du Rhone Villages Sablet, 2019

The village of Sablet is very near Gigondas, where the estate is located. As the name suggests (sablet = sandy), the soil is sandy, resulting in wines that are highly aromatic with more supple tannins than those in Gigondas. 

Medium deep, bright dark cherry color. This wine is a 60/40 blend of Grenache and Syrah--more Syrah than most CDR wines and that is showing. More black than red berries, dark cherries, anise seed and a touch of black pepper. Not at all like Gigondas but unique smells and flavors that I like. Ripe fruit, supple tannins, tasty finish..

Thursday, October 23, 2025

2 Lads Old Mission Peninsula White Pinot Noir, 2023

I have had many Michigan Pinot Noirs, including those from 2 Lads, that I have found very disappointing. Not so for this white Pinot Noir, that I liked enough to bring home from the tasting room. After a year in the bottle, it is even better.

Light pink color, almost a rose. Smells like a Pinot Noir. Tastes like a Pinot Noir. Fresh red berries and cherries, well defined and detailed. Great acid/tannic balance. Shows the delicacy and depth of a good Pinot Noir. I poured out half a glass a half hour before dinner so I could taste the wine at room temperature as well as chilled. I preferred the room temperature; Donna, the chilled version. Take your choice; it's a nice wine.
 

Tuesday, October 21, 2025

Point Ormond Victoria Shiraz, 2020

A few months ago, I tagged this as a drink now wine. It has beautiful up front fruit and ripe tannins that lead to a long, delicious finish. With this bottle, as some Syrah complexity begins to emerge, I see signs of aging potential.

Medium dark, no oak, according to the winemaker. Black fruits--berries, plums, currants--plus some lavender, black pepper and leafy notes. Also hints of black olives reminiscent of bottles of Jaboulet's Domaine Thalabert Crozes when I drank them in their youth in the 1980s. Who knows? Whatever, the wine sells for $14.99, and I am a buyer.

Saturday, October 18, 2025

Gaggino Convivio Dolcetto di Ovada, 2018

There are some misconceptions about Dolcetto  wines, primarily because of the name, which translates from the Italian as "little sweetie." The Italians had a different reason for this name, probably related to the little hills where the grapes are best grown. If I were limited to one word to describe this wine, it would not be "sweet" but rather "bitter." For my taste, though, it is a pleasant bitterness, like the bitterness of fine coffee.

Very deep and dark red. Black fruit and dark grape skin tones. No oak that I can detect but plenty of tannin. Compared to Barbera, Dolcetto is generally high in tannin, low in acidity, but this Dolcetto has enough acid to balance the bitter and lead to a firm, delicious finish.
 

Thursday, October 16, 2025

G.D. Vajra Langhe Rosso, 2020

If you have $40 to $90 to spend on a bottle of wine, G.D. Vajra has many good choices for you. If you have $15, the estate's Langhe Rosso will give you plenty of pleasure--tonight, next week or next year. It is made from grapes from young vines of several denominations--Nerbbiolo, Barbera, Dolcetto, Albarossa, Freisa and Pinot Noir. And it is perfectly blended to bring out the best of all of them.

Medium ruby. Not much new oak, if any. Beautiful smells of roses, violets and fresh fruit. Cherries and more cherries--tart enough to tease your taste buds and sweet enough to give pleasure. Enough tannins to provide a firm structure but supple enough to let the flavors shine through. I can't find anything to fault with this wine, except that I never buy enough.
 

Tuesday, October 14, 2025

Willamette Valley Vineyards Dijon Clone Chardonnay, 2017

When Jim Bernau of Willamette Valley Vineyards went to Burgundy in France for advice about growing great Chardonnay grapes in Oregon, he came back with Dijon clones which continue to be the source of his WVV Bernau Block Chardonnay. The estate's Dijon Clone Chardonnay sells for about half the price and is also excellent.

Full yellow gold. Unique smells and flavors: white peaches and cream, honey, lemon curd. Rich texture but not buttery. Long, deep, complex finish One of the favorite whites at our table.
 

Sunday, October 12, 2025

Domaine de la Solitude Cotes du Rhone, 2023

I have never tried the Chateauneuf du Pape from Domaine de la Solitude, but it is well regarded. The estate was one of the first to use new oak, with mixed results at best. This Cotes du Rhone, though, was clearly made in the traditional style, and it satisfies my standards for Cotes du Rhone.

Medum ruby, bright and clear. Red berries, plums, spice, black pepper. Intensely fruity with fine, ripe tannins. Nothing in this wine that is not inviting. Everything I like in a Cotes du Rhone, and it sells for $13.99 at Plum Market in Ann Arbor. Should drink well for another two or three years so but why wait?
 

Tuesday, October 7, 2025

Kirkland Signature Friuli Grave Pinot Grigio, 2023

Trader Joe's is always a good place to find inexpensive Pinot Grigio wines, but this one from Costco is just as cheap ($4.99) and, in my opinion, much better. Grapes come from the cool climate Friuli region in the Alps of northeastern Italy, considered one of the best regions for Pinot Grigio.

Very pale, bright and clean. Some floral notes in the aroma. Very refreshing: green apple, lime, pear and honeydew melon. Lean and clean with just the right amount of acidity and fresh fruit. For $4.99??
 

Saturday, October 4, 2025

Famille Perrin Ventoux Rouge, 2022

Through most of the late 1980s and early 1990s, La Vielle Ferme VentousRouge was a staple on my shopping list. Since it sold for less than $3 a bottle, I would buy at least a case every year and finish it off by the end of the year. I never aged it but am sure it would have improved over 3 to 5 years or longer. La Vieille Ferme is still available, but the grapes no longer come from Ventoux. The equivalent today, produced by the same Perrin family, is this Ventoux Rouge. It is available for about $7 at Plum Market in Ann Arbor, and I have seen it on the shelves at Sawall's Health Foods in Kalamazoo for a dollar or two more. It is still a big favorite of mine, demonstrating all of the best qualities of the Southern Rhone.

Medium ruby, bright and clear. Grenache strawberries covered with freshly ground black pepper. Syrah body and structure and Carignan spice. Drinks so beautifully at every stage of development and with any meal--from fine dining to carry out pizza. This is my last bottle; I must go and get more.
 

Sunday, September 28, 2025

Stolpman Vineyards Cuadrilla Ballard County Red Blend 2023

This is a wine I found on the wine list at Zingerman's Road House in Ann Arbor. It's a Southern Rhone blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre plus some Sangiovese. As a long-time fan of Southern Rhone wines, I don't detect any real similarity to a Cotes du Rhone, but it is an enjoyable wine, and I was happy to learn that profits from this particular wine are returned to the vineyard workers--the cuadrilla or "crew."

Deep and dark. Black and red berries, purple plums, lavender. Lots of Syrah qualities. A plush, fruit-filled wine with some weight and complexity on the mid-palate. A good match for the iconic Grillade and Grits dish that is always on the Roadhouse Sunday menu.
 

Saturday, September 27, 2025

Franco Serra Nebbiolo Langhe, 2015

I have long been a fan of Franco Serra's Barbera d'Alba, an excellent value at $10 to $12. More diffiult to find in my markets, this Franco Serra Nebbiolo Langhe costs only $2 to $3 more and is an even greater value.

Medium garnet with the orangish tints characteristic of Nebbiolo. The characteristic smells and flavors of Nebbiolo are also present. Flowers and tea on the nose Dark cherries, tobacco and black licorice on the palate. Full bodied (although only 13.5% alcohol) with asssertive tannins that fill the mouth and coat the tongue. Dry and savory. Delicious berry fruit on the finish. Suggestions of Barolo at a fraction of the price.
 

Tuesday, September 23, 2025

Tatiarra Cambrian Heathcote Shiraz, 2004

The Cambrian soil on which these grapes were grown is, according to the estate, more than 500,000,000 years old--presumably the oldest soil in the world. I am not sure that old soil matters as much as old vines in producing quality wine. Even so, this wine is special.

The cork crumbles even though it is completely dry and there is no sign of past leakage. Just a cheap cork, I decide, and this wine deserves better. Very deep and dark. Lush and luxurious. Black berries, very ripe plums and fig. A touch of tobacco on the finish. 15.5% alcohol, but the wine carries it well, perhaps because of higher than expected acidity. Old soil or not, Heathcote is capable of producing top quality Shiraz, and this is a delicious example.

Monday, September 22, 2025

E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone Blanc, 2023

 

I have been a fan of Guigal's red Cotes du Rhone for nearly 50 years.  I rarely buy the white Cotes du Rhone, though, and this bottle tells me I have been missing something.

Medium light color. From the first sniff, I start thinking "Viognier," and it is indeed 60% Viognier. Lovely aromatics, pink and white flowers, honey. Apricot flavors on the palate and medium body echoing well constructed blend of Roussanne, Marsanne, Clairette, Bourboulanc and Grenache Blanc. Elegance, freshness, strength and purity.

Thursday, September 18, 2025

Schlumberger Pinot Gris Reserve Speciale, 1983

1983 was a great year for wine lovers. The vintage was very good through most of France, and prices in the U.S when the wines reached the market.were low due to a favorable exchange rate and other factors. I bought a lot of Bordeaux and Sauternes, and nearly all are drinking beautifully today. For the Alsace wies I bought, the drink by date is long past, of course.. But this 1983 Pinot Gris from Schlumberger is offering pleasure tonight to one who appreciates old wines.

Very deep gold, similar to a Sauternes of comparable age. Still has fruit and spice flavors--apricot, nectarine, melon and clove. And the palate is rich and full. Smooth with no hard edges. Much drier than most Alsace wines on the market today, and that is a plus for me. Matches well with pork schnitzel.

Tuesday, September 16, 2025

Trader Joe's Reserve Lot #254 Rasteau, 2022

Like Vinsobres, Rasteau is very close to Vaison la Romaine--about 6 miles to the west as opposed to 6 miles to the north. So I opened this wine tonight so I could see the similarities, if any, between the two wines and their appellations. The Vinsobres is 52% Grenache, 48% Syrah. The Rasteau is 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Cinsault and 10% Mourvedre.

Medium ruby, very similar to the Vinsobres. Probably stainless steel and concrete. Classic Southern Rhone: fresh strawberries and red raspberries with peppery spice. More red fruit than the Vinsobres, more acidity, less alcohol (14.5% vs 15%) and more intense smells and flavors. Also has been in the bottle for an additional year. This is my kind of wine. Excellent value at $9.99.
 

Sunday, September 14, 2025

Trader Joe's Reseerve Lot #263 Vinsobres, 2023

 

My introduction to Vinsobres came several years ago at a small bistro in Vaison la Romaine in the Southern Rhone. It was incredibly inexpensive (about $1.50 a glass) and incredibly good. I learned that the Vinsobres appellation is just a few miles away from Vaison. This Trader Joe's Reserve is also inexpensvie ($9.99 a bottle) but not as good as the wine I had in Vaison nor in more expensive bottles I have  had since such as the Perrin family's Vinsobres Les Cornuds. But it is still worth the price.

Medium ruby, bright and clear. No sign of new oak aging. 52% Grenache, 48% Syrah, but has the upfront friendliness of wines with higher Grenache content. Fresh berries along with black pepper and licorice. Fruit flavors seem somewhat dilute compared to some of my Southern Rhone favorites, perhaps because of the relatively high alcohol (15%). . But the wine is drinking well right now, and I will buy more if I see it again on the shelves.