Domaine du Cayron Gigondas, 1985

Domaine du Cayron and I have a long history, going back to the 1980 vintage. This 1985, now 39 years old, is a testament to why I consider it the standard bearer for Gigondas.

Deep garnet with some bricking at the edges. In a full glass, though, the color is dark, almost opaque. At least in 1985, no new oak was used in the wine's maturation so the color is a sign of the wine's concentration.70% Grenache, 15% Syrah plus old vine Cinsault and a small quantity of Mourvedre. Intense boutique of cherries, red and black berries, violets and aromatic Provencal herbs. Ripe, succulent flavors of strawberries, raspberries, plums. Medium to low acidity and tannins have faded away leaving a luscious mouthful of concentrated mixed berry fruit. Impossible to resist. Some complex savory notes develop on the finish as the wine warms and aerates. 39 years after the vintage, this wine is as lovely as ever.

Pierre-Bise Clos de Coulaine Savennieres, 2000

I bought several bottles of this (and other vintages) of Clos du Coulaine more than 20 years ago for an attractive price (about $10 a bottle). Consumed 10 to 12 years after the vintage date, these wines were disappointing, bitter and almost hard to drink. As the last remaining bottle, 20 years after the vintage, this Savennieres has finally turned the corner and is drinking beautifully. I suspect this may be because the bitterness on the finish (probably botrytis-derived) has evolved and blended nicely into the other Chenin Blanc flavors.

Deep golden yellow. Canteloupe melon, honey, flowers and limestone minerals. Broad flavors but plenty of acidity. Works beautifully with the flavors and texture of grilled acorn squash. This has what I love about Savennieres. It is a sometimes cranky wine, and I wish I had been more patient with the bottles I consumed before their time.
 

Chateau Haut Tornezy Bordeaux, 2019

This lower level appellation Bordeaux is a throwback to the good value wines I bought in the early 1980s. At that time, it would have been cost $3; now it is still a great quality for price at $11. 65% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet France and 5% Malbec.

Medium deep ruby. Laid back scents and flavors of red and black currants. Pure fruit, not much oak but authentic Bordeaux profile. Flows smoothly across the tongue. Acidity keeps it fresh and lively now and will also allow it to age gracefully over the next few years.

 

Domaine Drouhin Dundee Hills Pinot Noir, 2014

Donmaine Drouhin claims for this wine "French soul, Oregon soil." My impression finds more French than Oregon Pinot traits. And I must admit that, based on my limited experience with both appelations, I tend to prefer the Oregon.

Medium deep, bright ruby red. Retaining its color well 10 years after the vintage. Cherries, flowers, cinnamon and other baking spices. Sweeter and richer with none of the citrus zest that provides complexity in many Willamette Valley Pinots. Medium body, smooth texture. Fresh acidity and supple tannins. I suspect the finish will become more complex with another year or two in the cellar.
 

Olarra Clasico Rioja Grand Reserva, 2016

This has faint resemblance to the Rioja Gran Reservas I enjoyed with great pleasure in the 1970s and early 1980s. But it is a good wine in its own right and well worth the $12.99 I paid for it at Costco.

Deep and dark with almost purple tones. Ripe red and black raspberries and coffee oak. Also some mature notes of leather and raisins in the bouquet. Gran Reservas that I remember from the 1970s spent several years in old American oak barrels that gave them strong smells and flavors of vanilla and dried dill. This wine, I suspect. has been matured, at least in part, in new French oak barrels that have imparted a more modern, international profile. Ripe red and black fruit on a long and elegant finish

Maison L'Envoye Straight Shooter Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, 2022

Grapes for this Straight Shooter Pinot Noir come from the sub-AVAs of Eola-Amity Hills and McMinnville. Sedimentary and volcanic soils. About 20% whole clusters used in the fermentation.

Medium violet red. Cherries, cranberries, forest floor and spice. Blood orange and zest on the finish. Drinking well now with good acidity and silky tannins. should develop complexity and finesse with some aging.. 

At $20 to $25 a bottle, Straight Shooter is a moderately priced Willamette Valley Pinot Noir and an excellent value.
 

TuaTea Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc, 2023

When I first tasted TuaTea Sauvignon Blanc five years ago, I pegged it as a personal favorite, a notch above other New Zealand Sauvignons on the market. And it still sells for $5.99 at Trader  Joe's. Why have I neglected it for so long?

Light color even for a young Sauvignon Blanc. Grapefruit, a touch of passion fruit, lemon zest and freshly cut grass. Elegant on the mid-palate with a long clean finish. A pleasant touch of salinity on the finish. As I have said before: cheap at twice the price.
 

Pertinace Barbera d'Alba, 2019

Usually available at an every day price, Pertinace's Barbera d'Alba meets all of my requirements for an every day wine, a good match for pizza or pasta dishes.

Bright, medium light ruby. Dark cherries, berries, plums and spice. Medium bodied with moderate tannins and the Barbera acidity to please the palate. By the end of the meal, the finish has become very mellow and friendly, inviting sip after sip.
 

Phillips Hill Oppenlander Mendocino Pinot Noir, 2007

Oppenlander Vineyard on the Comptche Ridge in Mendocino County is a special place for growing Pinot Noir, and this 2007 from Phillips Hill is a prime example.

Bright ruby, darker than most Oppenlanders I have seen and tasted. This 2007 is particularly rich but still has the complexity and finesse that I espect from Oppenlander. Red berries with wild fruit intensity, minerals and a touch of cinnamon. Ripe fruit on mid palate and finish. Bright, fresh and acidic...even at age 17. Hard to quit sniffing and sipping.
 

Sandrone Nebbiolo d'Alba Valmaggiore, 2019

I have written previously about the good value Nebbiolo wines from Roero, located on the other side of the Tanaro River and only a few miles from the more highly regarded and expensive vineyards of Barolo and Barbaresco. The Valmaggiore vineyard is in Roero, but wines from this micro-climare are highly prized and often sell in a price range more typical of Barolo and Barbaresco. Luciano Sandrone is among the winemakers who have recognized the special qualities of Valmaggiore Nebbiolo and  promoted it as a distinct interpretation of the grape.

Medium deep with some orangeish Nebbiolo tints. Rose petals, red berries, sea salt and more subtle savory qualities. Ripe and lovely. Surprisingly accessible for its age but has serious depth and concentration with a glorious finish. Some say Valmaggiore drinks best 6 to 12 years after the vintage but will certainly keep and improve for much longer. Now at 5 years, this 2019 Valmaggiore is drinking beautifully, one of the best wines I have had this year. I am looking foward to following its evolution over the next decade.

Broadsides Vineyard Ferment Central Coast Chardonnay, 2022

This Chardonnay was sourced from vineyards in Edna Valley on California's Central Coast.

Medium deep gold. Captivating scents of nectarines, pears, minerals and honey. Matured in both American and French oak but does not come across as oaky. Medium bodied, medium plus acidity, distinctive flavors, clean finish. Excellent value for $15 to $20.

Domaine Brunely Cotes du Rhone Villages Cairanne, 2018

The Domaine Brunely estate is located on the Sarrians hills between the Rhone and Ventoux. Although most of the vines are in the Vacqueyras appellation, the estate has added vineyards in Cairanne, Ventoux, Gigondas and Chateauneuf du Pape. This 2018 Cairanne is still young but beginning to open up and display its charms.

Dark violet color. Black and red raspberries, spices and minerals. Firm still on the mid-palate but fruit peeking through nicely. 50% Grenache plus Syrah, Carignan and Cinsault. Energetic finish. Has room to grow.