Louis Latour Pernand-Vergelesses Blanc, 1998

Pernand Vergelesses is one of my favorite good value white Burgundy appellations--a dramatic wine with substantial complexity and flavor interest.

I thoroughly enjoyed Louis Latour's 1995 and 1996 P-Vs a few years ago, and feel sure they're still drinking beautifully. Wish I still had some. This 1998 unfortunately has a bitter note, like the inside of a peach seed, that comes forward in the aroma and detracts from my enjoyment. And that same bitter note shows up on the finish as well. Otherwise, it has decent Chardonnay and oak qualities--apple, citrus, peach in a robust frame. And, unlike cheap white wines, it smells and tastes better warm than it does cold. I'll wait a year or so before trying the next bottle, although I don't have high hopes of a turn-around. I suspect it's simply an off year for Pernand-Vergelesses from Louis Latour.