Wednesday, June 3, 2026

Luigi Ferrando Carema Etichetta Bianca (White Label), 2006


Compared to the Covalli Barolo beside it at the table, this wine from Carema offers a different  face of Piedmont Nebbiolo. It is from the mountainous cliffs north of Barolo where the weather is cooler, the soil is different and the tannins are friendly at an earlier age. It is also 20 years old compared to 12 for the Barolo.

Lighter color, also with orangeish tones. Sips within the first two hours after opening showed peppery tannins. By mealtime, though, the wine was displaying all of the glories of an upper Piedmont Nebbiolo. Wild cherries, bright and fresh. Also some cranberries, sweet and savory herbs and minerals galore. Flavors that dart in and out, on and off the tongue. Incredible wine!

I paid $40.25 for this wine at auction 20 years ago, and I was well rewarded not only for paying the price but also for exercising due patience. 

Donna and I spent several days in Carema in October, 2019. It is a small village facing a huge rock face of mountain. Vines grow directly out of the rock  nearly everywhere you look and are harvested, by hand of course, on tiny rock terraces. At the time. Ferrando was the sole producer aside from the local coop known as Produttori di Carema. I spent several hours at Produttori, tasting many excellent, but less expensive, barrel samples of Nebbiolo

Covalli Barolo, 2014

When this wine was released, it got good reviews for its bright cherry and floral smells and flavors as well as its unbelievably low price of $15 at Costco and Garagiste. Tonight, it lacks all of those good qualities except the price tag. It is not over the hill, as many would believe, but is closed down for awhile until the iron-clad tannins typical for Barolo lose their grip.

Medium light with some characteristic orange tones. Pretty ordinary on the nose. Not much to like on the palate, either. Lots of acid, lots of tannin. I feel confident it will eventually come around, but I am not opening another bottle for awhile, maybe two or three years.