Willamette Valley Vineyards Estate Chardonnay, 2012

I knew this wine might be past its prime, when I bid on it (at a good price). But I also knew that Oregon Chardonnays have the acidity to age well for 10 years or more, and I wanted to test the outside limits. Yes, it is past its prime, but, in my view, it has much more to offer than 90% of the Chardonnays on the shelves for current drinking.

Deep gold, bright but showing its age. Lemon curd and green apples; similar profile to other WVV Chardonnays I have had but not as lively or fresh as the 2022 Dijon Clone. Develops some nice biscuity tones as it warms and airs.

 

Assyrtiko from Santorini

If you could see the way grapes are grown on the Greek Island of Santorini, you might be skeptical about the production of wine. They are grown in basket-like clusters rising only about a foot from the ground; no arbors needed. And if you knew that it rarely rains at any time during the year on this island, you would be even more skeptical. The grapes go it on their own, absorbing whatever moisture they can gather from sea breezes or from digging ever deeper into the alluvial soil. The "vines" are indigenous, pre-philloxera and have been producing wine grapes continuously for hundreds, if not thousands of years, with some time off for recovery from the volcano that devastated the island in 1600 BC. 

Of course, all of that is positive for the wine, if not entirely so for anyone wishing to make money from selling the wine. Yields are low and flavor concentration in the grapes is extremely high.

We spent an afternoon at Santo Winery, and their five-wine tasting flight was relatively expensive compared to other prices on the island but worth every sip. We had three Assyrtiko-based whites, one red and one naturally sweetened wine, Vin Santo. 

The first wine, Santorinio Assyrtiko, went through what the winery called "classic white winemaking," which basically meant without oak aging. Citric and floral with sea breeze tones and that intense mineral edge. Has probably had some lees contact.

Santo Wines Santorini Nykteri was 85% Assyrtiko with 10% Athiri and 5% Aidani--all from Santorini. It was aged for six months in French oak vats. Slightly deeper in color and richer on the palate. Citrus, green apple and pear with Assyrtiko minerals and a glorious finish.

Assyrtiko Santorini Grande Reserve was 100% Assyrtiko aged 12 months in medium toast French oak. Deep gold, full body. Complexity you might expect from a high-level white Burgundy--roasted nuts, spices, vanilla and toast. The winery predicts "long aging potential," something I would expect from all of the Assyrtiko wines.

Santo Wines Santorini Mavrotagano Dry Red Wine is 100% Mavrotagano aged 12 months in medium toast Frrench oak barrels. Ruby color. Intense red and black fruits. Tannins are showing on this wine and I would wait a few years before opening a bottle. I preferred some of the red wines I had in Athens, especially those made with Xinomavro.

Vin Santorini is a gorgeous sweet wine, similar to Amarone, made from sun-dried grapes. It is 85% Assyrtiko and 15% Aidani, sun dried for six to eight days followed by slow fermentation and at least 36 months in French oak barrels. Dried fruits and nuts. Very concentrated. Long, long after taste. Reminds me of a 20-year Tawny Port, although, unlike tawny ports, this wine will continue to age in the bottle. The 12- and 20-Year Vin Santo Wines were available at the winery but, unfortunately, not included in the tasting.

Greek Wines

I haven't had much experience with Greek wines since the 1970s when Retsina was the wine of choice at Greek Town in Chicago and Detroit. On a recent three-week trip to Athens and the Greek islands, I gained a very positive impression of Greek wines, both white and red. We never ordered expensive bottles (actually at 25 to 30 Euros a bottle not really expensive by US standards) but routinely ordered the house wine by the glass or half liter, usually 5 to 6 Euros for even for half a liter. I was never disappointed. The wines were always drinking beautifully with good balance and surprisingly complex flavor profiles. Many restaurants had barrels from which the wine was drawn so maybe the wines had gained some barrel aging complexities on site.

Most house reds were from the indigenous Agiorgitiko grape. They were medium to full bodied with a flavor profile similar to Merlot or Nero d'Avola. When available, I usually went for Xinomavro, a bolder wine with high acid, high tannin and intense smells and flavors reminiscent of Nebbiolo. Back home, it is now on my buy list.

Most house whites were Moschofilero--medium bodied with floral aromas and flavors of citrus and stone fruits. After visiting the island of Santorini and going to a tasting at Santo winery, I quickly became enamored of Assyrtiko, a wine with incredibly deep and complex mineral and fruit flavors. At restaurants, I was more than willing to shell out 50 cents extra for a glass of Assyrtiko, well aware that back home I would be paying dearly for the pleasure. Assyrtiko also goes on my buy list, although I am probably too cheap to find any in my price range.

Point Ormond Western Australia Cabernet Sauvignon, 2018

This 100% Cabernet produced by Point Ormond doesn't fit the profile of Margaret River Cabernets I have tasted in the past, but it is a good wine and an excellent value for the $11.99 I paid at Plum Market online in Ann Arbor.

Bright and deep Cabernet colors. More red fruit and less black currant than I expect from Western Australia Cabs. Aged for 14 months in French oak, 20% new but doesn't smell or taste oaky. Fruit is front and center and the wine is drinking very well at seven years of age. Good acid, good balance and a medium long finish. A good companion to the Point Ormond Victorian Shiraz ($15) that has become one of my every day favorites.
 

Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz, 2002

In Australia, Penfolds Bin 389  is highly regarded, often known as Baby Grange. Some of the American oak hogsheads in which it was matured were used the previous year for the iconic Penfolds Grange. This 2002 has aged fantastically over 24 years and still has a great deal of youthful charm as well as savory complexity. It is 54% Cabernet, 46% Shiraz from vineyards in McLaren Vale, Barossa, Padthaway, Border town and Langhorne Creek.

Vibrant deep red color. Red currants, cherries, mint, eucalyptus.Cabernet elegance is front and center. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins. The American oak has integrated fully, leaving only beautifully defined fruit. Silky texture and long, lovely finish.

This 2002 now sells for $160 in Australia and is certainly worth a premium. I bought my bottle for $19 at World Market, Kalamazoo in the days when the store sold wine.
 

Chateau Grand Travverse Old Mission Peninsula Gamay Noir Limited, 2021

In the late 1970s and early 1980s, when I first started getting interested in wines, Gamay was definitely not in style. It was a wine for beginners--a picnic wine. In my old age,  I now recognize Gamay as a serious wine grape with distinctive, elegant aromas and flavors, similar to Pinot Noir but good in its own right. The Gamay Noir from Chateau Grand Traverse is now my favorite Michigan red, more like Pinot Noir than the Pinot from the same estate.

Medium crimson. Bright strawberries, red plums, violets and pepper. Good lift and acidity compared to a Willamette Valley Pinot beside it at the table. At five years of age, it is drinking well, probably at or near its pea. The Gamay Noir Limited sells for $18 at the winery but can be had for $15 at many groceries in Kalamazoo, including Crosstown Fresh. It is a regular on my buying list.

 

Domaine du Grand Montmirail Gigondas Les Deux Juliettes, 2012

Les Deux Juliettes is named after the Juliette daughters of the French producer, Yves Cheron, and the American importer, Charles Neal. It is 80% Grenache from vines 55 to 65 years old, 15% Syrah and 5% Mourvedre from 30 year-old vines--all on alluvial soil in the  well regarded southeast corner of Gigondas.

Deep crimson. The quality is apparent from the first sniff: violets, red fruit, rosemary and thyme--bright and full of life. Dark cherries, wild strawberries, licorice and black pepper on the palate. Full bodied but with ripe, supple tannins and a long, delicious finish. Power and beauty--the essence of Gigondas. At least as good as my last bottle opened on April 7, 2024.
 

Domaine du Pegau Cuvee Reservee Chateauneuf du Pape, 1995

This is my first go at the 1995 Pegau, after numerous bottles over the years of the 1988, 1989 and 1990 Cuvee Reservee.  It differs remarkably from these earlier vintages, but still shows the great viticulture of Paul Feraud and the great winemaking of his daughter, Laurrence,

Deep crimson, bright and clear. Cherries, red raspberries plus tertiary notes of black olives and leather. Particularly enticing for a Chateauneuf du Pape. Not as bold as the earlier vintages but with flavors than unfold beautifully over the course of the meal. Others on Cellar Tracker have compared it to red 'Burgundy, and I agree. Ripe tannins, good acidity to balance and a long, glorious finish.

My bottles of this wine were imported by J.C. Mathes of J et R and the label gives the alcohol content as 13.5%. Other tasters, who apparently have bottles imported by Dan Kravitz, report ABV as 14.5 to 15.5%.
 

Hidden Hill Estate McLaren Vale Shiraz, 2021

I paid $5.99 for this wine a few years ago at Trader Joe's and didn't expect much. It does have an appellation on the label, though, and that appellation (McLaren Vale) has a very good reputation for Shiraz. Tonight, it is showing itself as a true value.

Deep and dark as is typical for Aussie Shiraz. It was very bold and a bit one dimensional a couple of years ago but, at age 5, it has developed maturity and complexity. Dark cherries, berries, plums with a spicy edge. Medium to full body and the rough tannins have mellowed, allowing McLaren Vale fruit to show its best. Very enjoyable right now.

 

Franco Serra Langhe Nebbiolo, 2015

Franco Serra produces my favorite low-priced Barbera d'Alba, and the Langhe Nebbiolo costs only a few dollars more ($13 to $15) for a poor man's taste of Piedmont Barolo.

Medium ruby with orangeish tints characteristic of traditional Nebbiolo. After fermentation was aged four months in stainless steel, then six months in large oak barrels and three months in the bottle. Needs at least two hours of aeration to show its best. Classic Nebbiolo profile of dark cherries, black licorice, earth and pepper. Medium body with firm tannins and acidity to match. Complexity comes through with enough aeration.
 

Domaine Couturier Saint Veran La Coeur des Bois, 2021

Grapes for this lovely wine come from 70- to 80-year old Chardonnay vines in the southern Maconnais. La Coeur du Bois is a small plateau with alluvial soil and large stones--very acidic, sandy loam on a clay base that is also very acidic. The resulting wine is more like Chablis than white Burgundies fron the Cotes de Beaune.

Medium deep yellow. Elegance personified. Intense bouquet of flowers, pears, apples and white peaches. Lemon curd acidity. Not too sweet upfront but fresh and lively leading to a long, refined fruit-oriented finish. Exciting flavors that cling to the memory long after the final sip. A special wine.

Marcel Couturier's La Coeur des Bois retails for $40 to $50 a bottle--well out of my price range. But I have found it several times for $15 to $20 on WineBid.
 

Gigi Rosso Barolo Arione, 2001

I opened this wine two hours before dinner, but it still benefited from another hour or two of aeration. Not until then did the classic Nebbiolo bouquet begin to emerge.

Medium ruby. Violets, roses and cherries on the nose....after sufficient aeration. Dark cherries, black licorice on the tongue. Not as powerful or tannic as I expected from Barolo but plenty of sweet fruit flavors that get more complex as the meal progresses. 
 

Perticaia Montefalco Sagrantino, 2016

For me, this was the major attraction of the AWS Central Italy National Tasting Project. I was anxious to taste a good Sagrantino, and I was not disappointed.

Deep and dark, bright and clear. Garnet shading in from the rim. Bright scents and flavors of red and black fruits, violets, eucalyptus and black pepper. Fine grained tannins, some alcoholic warmth but doesn't detract. Silky texture. Long, sweet fruited finish. 

I gave this wine 18.0, a close second to the Nobile di Montepulciano, compared to 17.0 for the Selection Committee.

 

Salcheto Nobile di Montepulciano, 2021

This was my favorite wine of the AWS Tasting Project Part 2, earning a score of 19.0. The Selection Group was not as generous (15.5), but the 

Wine Enthusiast shared my enthusiasm (92) as did the Wine Spectator (92), Vinous (90) and James Suckling (91).

Deep violet ruby, bright and clear. Spicy, fresh, red berries, cherries, mint, thyme. Currants, red and black, emerge on the palate. Wow! Flavors that tease and please. Has the complexity of a mature wine. Perfectly balanced for pleasure. Long, delicious fruit-filled finish.

 

Palagetto Chianti Colli Senesi, 2022

Chianti Colli Senesi is Sangiovese wine grown in the hills (Colli) near Siena (Senesi). This is wine #3 from the AWS National Tasting Project, Part 2. 

Medium deep ruby. Clear but could be brighter. Fruit-packed aromas and flavors of dark cherry, raspberry, pepper. Medium acid, somewhat tough tannins. Not very intense. Seems to lack balance at present but that may change with a year or two of aging. I gave it 16.0 (Selection Committee 15.5).

Fabula Fortitudo Cerasuolo d'Abbruzzo, 2023

This wine, second wine served at the AWS National Tasting Project Part 2, is a rose Montepulciano. After 4 to 6 hours of skin contact, it was processed as a white wine. Not usually a fan of rose wines, I found this one particularly appealing and gave it an 18.0 score (16.0 for the Selection Group).

Deep copper red, darker than a typical rose. Enticing scents of red fruits, lime, tea. Medium bodied. Very dry but with refreshing acidity. Medium long, enjoyable after taste.
 

Palagetto Vernaccia di San Gimignano, 2024

Back to the American Wine Society National Tasting Project focusing on the wines of central Italy. These are the wines we tasted for Part 2.

Deep straw color, bright and clear. Not very intense on the attack. Apple and apple blossom with a hint of butter. Rich and full bodied but, again, not very intense. Very dry on the palate. Low to medium acidity. Medium finish.

I have had better Vernaccias. Scored this one 13.5 compared to the Selection Committee's 15.5.
 

Franco Serra Barbera d'Alba, 2020

Although the price has been creeping up, this is one of the least expensive Barberas on the market...and certainly the best value. I have enjoyed it year after year over the past decade or two.

Medium ruby with some garnet tones. Cherries, violets, chocolate, black pepper. Barbera acidity with a tannic backbone. A pleasant rustic texture. Some might find woody tones even though it was aged in stainless steel and has never seen oak. Doing quite well in its sixth year.

Franco Serra also has a good Nebbiolo d'Alba, a Barolo and a Barbaresco, all priced well below that of most competitors.

 

Villadoria Bricco Magno Langhe Nebbiolo, 2013

This Langhe Nebbiolo is made in the modern, international style--aged first in small new oak barrels and then in larger barrels until the winemaker is satisfied with the aroma and flavor profile. Even though I generally favor the traditional style (with aging in large Slavonian oak barrels), this wine definitely meets my standards for Nebbiolo.

Medium ruby, shading to garnet. Has all of the lovely scents of Nebbiolo: roses, violets, red berries. I don't detect any oak influenced aromas. Also has the Nebbiolo flavors I love: dark cherry, black licorice, pepper. Warm and full bodied. Fills the mouth with pleasure. Velvety texture and long, complex finish. Drinking in its prime at 13 years.
 

Angel Ranch Russian River Chardonnay, 2019

Russian River Valley has a cool, foggy climate that is conductive to growing good, agewothy Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. This Angel Ranch Chardonnay is showing very well in its seventh year.

Deep gold color, clear and bright. Lemon curd, vanilla, brown butter. Full bodied and fairly bold. Good legs climbing up the glass. Bright fruit aromas and flavors. Gets better as it warms and aerates. Not a very well known label; probably produced by Art+Farm Wines.
 

Trader Joe's Reserve Vinsobres, 2023

52% Grenache, 48% Syrah from Vinsobres grapes grown in the norrthern reaches of the Southern Rhone and produced by the cooperative at Tulette.

Bright and deep crimson color. Black raspberry, Provencal herbs, black licorice and pepper. Grenache friendly on the tongue with Syrah backbone. Medium plus body. Good fruit filled finish. Seems perfectly balanced. Hard to believe the 15% alcohol although that may show up with some heat in future years.

Probably does not not measure up to the Perrian Family's Les Cornud, but it's less than half the price ($9.99 at Trader Joe's in 2024).

 

Tornatore Etna Rosso, 2023

Made from Nerello Mascalese with a bit of Nerello Cappuccio grown on volcanic soils in the north of Italy, this wine captured my senses.

Medium deep ruby with some purple tints. Intense aromas of dark cherries, red berries and menthol. Similar fruit flavors but with savory notes. Dark tones of black truffle, pepper and smoke on the persistent finish. Has the depth and complexity of a mature wine, and who knows how much more it will have to offer in another 5 to 10 years

Left Foot Charley Old Mission Peninsula Blaufrankisch, 2023

One advantage of early dining (no later slots were available) at the excellent Amical restaurant in Traverse City is the Happy Hour 50% discount on full bottles of wine. We paid $22 for this bottle, which is less than its retail price at many wine stores. It was worth it plus plus.

Deep plummy violet color. Black raspberries, flowers, black licorice. This is a high acid wine, similar to Cab Franc, and it grows well in Michigan soil and cool climate. Plush texture. Medium body (13% alcohol). A very enjoyable wine to accompany my black pepper/truffle fettucine and Donna's French onion soup/ham and cheese tart.
 

Elio Sandri Barbera d'Alba Superiore, 2012

On tasting my first bottle of this wine on September 10, 2018, I said: "This wine has good balance even though it feels a bit aggressive on the palate right now. Five years from now? I can't wait." Actually, eight years later, it has developed into the robust but complex wine that I anticipated.

The color has lightened, much more amber now. Best at cellar temperature; I put it in the refrigerator for 20 minutes, to bring back some of the tannins that had melted a bit over eight years. Once aggressive, it is now mellow with bright fruit smells and flavors. Red cherry, raspberry, black licorice. Ripe fruit on friendly mid-palate tannins. Signature Barbera acidity keeps it fresh and lively on medium-long finish. Unfortunately, this is my last bottle.
 

Penfolds Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz, 2004

This wine, according to the Penfolds web site, "is a showcase for warm climate Australian Shiraz--ripe, robust and generously flavored." It is a style that has long been favored by Australian wine drinkers. 

Kalimna is the name of a vineyard that once produced a popular Kalimna Dry Red, the forerunner of this Bin 28.  The Kalimna Vineyard has moved up the Penfolds ladder, but this wine, sourced from several vineyards in Barossa and elsewhere, is made in a similar style. It was matured for 12 months in one-, two-year and older Americnn oak hogsheads.

Very dark, almost opaque. Enticing smells and flavors. Blackberries, plums, anise and mint. Ripe fruit still takes center stage, now even more prominent as the tannins have softened. Generally well balanced but with some heat (14.5% ABV) on the finish. Has aged very well over 22 years and should continue to drink well for at least another year or two.
 

Yorkville Cellars Anderson Valley Petit Verdot, 2010

I have had Petit Verdot as part of the blend in many Bordeaux wines, but this is my introduction to 100% Petit Verdot.

Deep dark Cabernet color with some amber at the rim. Has aged well. Black currants, blueberries, cassis. Bright fruit smells and flavors. Very Cabernet in personality. Medium body with a velvety texture. Medium long finish. I can see why it the grape works so well in Bordeaux blends.
 

J.M. Gerin la Champine Syrah, 2013

J.M. Gerin has excellent vineyards in Cote Rotie. A less expensive option than Gerin's single vineyard Cote Roties, la Champine is made from younger vines on the property plus purchased produce from Collines Rhodabienne, an unclassified region in the Northern Rhone. This 2013 is just rounding into shape for my taste.

Deep ruby with minimal amber at the rim. Beautiful Northern Rhone bouquet in mid development. Black raspberries, anise and brambly herbs. Young fruit is giving way to savory, tangy tones. Black olives and freshly ground black pepper. Just the way I like it.
 

Curto Marco di Nadia Curto Langhe Rosso L'Informale, 2023

I listed above the vintage as 2023 because that is how it was sold at Saratoga Wine Exchange. Actually, though, there is no vintage date on the label, confirming that it is a wine for current, every day enjoyment rather than for aging. And it is indeed a very good wine for that purpose; we love it.

The wine is a blend of Dolcetto, picked in September, and Nebbiolo, picked in mid to late October, fermented separately and then blended in the Spring. Aging is in stainless steel for both grapes.

Medium color with some Nebbiolo orange tints. Beautiful ripe fruit smells. Donna thinks apple pie; I think cherry pie. We both get cinnamon and other baking spices. Lovely fruit flavors but with the tannic structure of Nebbiolo. If I tasted this blind, I might have tagged it as a Pinot Noir from northern California or Oregon. Wonderful texture. But as an every day wine, it is also like a very good Cotes du Rhone. Delicious to drink young but with the structure of a more serious wine.
 

Evolution Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, 2024

Sokol Blosser is a long-time producer of top line Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays from the Willamette Valley of Oregon. I have tasted a few of their single vineyard wines and can attest that they are well worth the premium price tags. At $22 a bottle, Evolution is their introductory level wine, probably made from grapes from younger vines on the estate or from purchased grapes from elsewhere in the Valley.

Medium light ruby, bright and clear. Looks like a Pinot. Powerful scents of violets, cranberries, red raspberries. Smells like a Pinot. Flavors that mirror the smells. Silky texture. Tastes like a Pinot. Delightful spicy finish. Based on this wine, I have high expectations for Willamette Valley wines from the 2024 vintage.

 

Bocale Montefalco Sagrantino Passito (Umbria), 2019

 

I have never had a Sagrantno wine, and I was looking forward to this NTP tasting for a good introduction. Apparently, the dry Sagrantino is to come next month at Tasting #2, but this Passito offers a very enjoyable glimpse of what this noble grape has to offer.  Passito is, of course, a sweet wine made from dried grapes, similar to Amarone.

Very dark, velvety. Very ripe fruit, doesn't smell or taste too alcoholic...even at 15.0% ABV. Rich, ripe fruits--plums, blackberries, dark cherries, pomegranates--wow! Also some floral notes. No hard edges, delicious fruit but not overly sweet for a dessert wine. Spicy finish, long and complex. I gave this 17.0 points. At $45 a half bottle, though, I think I would put my money on a good Sauternes or Vintage Port.

I Luoghi Bolgheri Superiore, 2020

As a Super Tuscan, this wine does not use the traditional Sangiovese blend of Tuscany but rather is 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc and 10% Merlot and Syrah. It is indeed super and I scored it 19.5, although I still preferred the Rosso di Montalcino that preceded it at the NTP tasting. At $45, it is nearly twice as expensive and not within my wine budget.

Deep and dark, a bit moreso than the Rosso. Ripe plums, red and black berries, more red fruit than I would expect from a Cabernet blend. I didn't get the herbal Cab Franc tones but other tasters  did. Abundant tannins but has the acidity to keep it lively and approachable today. Medium long finish. Good wine but I'll still take two bottles of the Rosso and go away happy.
 

Scopone Rosso di Montalcino, 2021

Produced from Sangiovese Grosso grapes grown in Tuscany, this "baby Brunello" was my favorite wine of the NTP tasting, although I scored it slightly lower  (19.0) than the Super Tuscan that followed (19.5). At $28, it is not cheap, but still less expensive (and more approachable) than most Brunellos.

Deep but not as dark and purplish as the Montepulciano. The oak is not as lavish and that is a plus for me. Mostly red fruits--berries, Montmorency cherries plus a touch of black licorice. Flavors match the smells, ripe and lovely. Great acid, medium alcohol, medium body. Flavors dance. Long, complex finish. I love this wine.
 

Bove Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Marso, 2021

For many tasters, this wine--rated high by nearly everyone--was the biggest surprise of the NTP tasting. Since there are many inexpensive Montepulcianos on the market, we did not expect this level of quality. At $25, though, it is hardly inexpensive.

Very deep, dark, purplish. Plums, dark cherries, black berries and currants. Great smells and ripe flavors that open beautifully. Very young, lavish oak but has the balance to show its best...now or later. Hard to resist. I gave it 18.0 but one taster at our table gave it 20.0. Not over-priced at $25.
 

Ciu Ciu Marche Pecorino

Next up on the NTP agenda is this Pecorino from the Marche area of Italy. It was my introduction to Pecorino, and I liked it enough to give it a 17.0 score.

Deeper color than the Trebbiano Spoletino, bright and clear. Subtle aromas of flowers and stone fruit, clean but not particularly intense. Forward fruit on the palate, medium acid, good balance.. The long, complex finish really turned me on, I would like to try more from this grape and this estate.
 

Bocale Umbria Trebbiano Spoletino, 2024

This was the first of six wines we tasted yesterday as part of the American Wine Society National Tasting Project, focusing on wines of central Italy. It is 100% Trebbiano Spoletino from Umbria that is distinct from the common Trebbiano grape grown in Tuscany.

Medium yellow/straw, bright and clear. Clean, straightforward aromas, medium intensity. Pear, peach, melon. Full on mid-palate, medium intensity, medium plus acid. I found the finish a bit dull and rated the wine only 15.0 on a 20 point scale. The wine seems ageworthy, though, and I would likely give it a higher score with a few more years in the bottle.
 

Le Versant Pays d'Oc Viognier, 2025

Top Viogniers come from Condrieu in the Northern Rhone, but these wines have always been too expensive for my wine budget. I have, though, enjoyed many good Viogniers from Domaine Sainte-Anne in the Gard area of the Southern Rhone, grown from cuttings taken years ago from Condrieu. Le Versant is made by a coop in the Languedoc and, as a result, has a price tag of $12 to $15.

Medium deep yellow. Lively topnote of white peaches and apricots. Not as floral or musky as those from the Rhone. Leesy mid-palate, not much oak. Appropriately dry finish. Donna likes it, and I will be a buyer.
 

Trader Joe's Reserve Lot #254 Rasteau, 2022

I have reported on this wine before and, fortunately, I have a few more bottles in the cellar because it is a very good Southern Rhone. 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre and 10% Cinsault.

Bright ruby red. Very open aromas--strawberries, blueberries, cherries--and flavors to match. Medium plus body. Medium acidity. Ripe tannins. Smooth texture. Beautiful ripe fruit with spice and black pepper. At $9.99, this is a fantastic value.
 

Point Ormond Victoria Shiraz, 2020

There is, to my knowledge, no Point Ormond Winery, but the person or group that produces this wine clearly knows how to seek out good grapes from good vineyards--in this case, probably in Heathcote. It is moderate alcohol (13.6%), moderate oak and drinks beautifully from the time it is released. Moreover, it sells for about $15 retail--in my opinion, one of the best values in Australian Shiraz. I buy it every chance I get.

Medium deep violet. Lifted aromas of black and red fruits, eucalyptus and Mediterranean herbs. Tangy flavors with some tobacco and black pepper. I don't know how this wine will age but it drinks so beautifully right now that it's a shame to wait.
 

Hook and Ladder Spider Web Ranch Russian River Chardonnay, 2022

Spider Web Ranch is named after a huge, perfectly crafted spider web near this vineyard that produces similarly impressive Chardonnay wine. This bottling by Hook and Ladder typically sells for $35 to $40 a bottle, but I obtained it a couple of years ago for $22 from Wine Spies, an online site.

Medium deep gold. Beautiful lime and mineral smells and flavors. French oak speaking. Has the acidity and spice characteristic of Russian River Chardonnay but also has an incredibly ripe, rich mid-palate. Intricate spider web finish.
 

Paul Jaboulet Aine Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert, 1995

This 1995 Thalabert has lived four additional years in the same cellar as the 1999 we drank on May 26. of this year.  Yet tonight it is showing at least four years younger than the highly rated 1999. I purchased (and cellared) both on release.

Good deep Syrah color with minimal amber at the edges. Beautiful fruit-filled bouquet from the moment the cork is popped. Black currants, cassis, lavender and a savory touch of black olives on the finish. Characteristic Northern Rhone acidity,but it's the fruit that is stealing the show right now. Only a few premature glimpses of the well aged Thalabert personality that I love so much. With all due respect, Mr. Parker, this is a better, more ageworthy vintage of Domaine Thalabert than your highly rated 1999. I have one more bottle of each and know which I will open first.

 

Ici la Bas Les Reveles Elke Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir, 2009

I have had many bottles from many vintages (1996, 1997, 1998, 2006) of Ici la Bas It was made by the late Jim Clendenen of Au Bon Climat from grapes grown in Mary Elke's Donnelly Creek Vineyards. From vintage to vintage, it has always been excellent, confirming for me the high quality of Anderson Valley Pinot Noir. This 2009 measures up to the high standard although this bottle at least may be nearing the end of its best drinking window.

Has lightened considerably since the last bottle, and the aromas are bit less intense, although still very good. Cherries, red raspberries, earth. Tannins have faded but acidity is carrying it and may continue to do so. Fine Pinot texture and body. Long, savory finish.
 

Bava Nizza Piano Alto di Crena, 2014

In 2013, this wine was labeled as Barbera d'Asti. But in 2014 the Nizza region was given its own AOC, giving the area the status it has long deserved. Persons who know Piedmont wines should know that Nizza has the ideal limestone soil and micro-climate for growing Barbera and, as a result, some very old and esteemed vineyards. Nizza means Barbera just as Barolo and Barbaresco mean Nebbiolo.

Intense, deep ruby red with only a sliver of amber at the rim. Has been aged for 18 months in large (1500 liter) upright tanks. This wine is aging beautifully. Equally intense aromas of black currants and cherries. Dark tones of licorice and pepper on the palate. Ripe tannins plus the characteristic acidity of Barbera. Sweet fruit upfront with a rich mid-palate and black fruited complexity on the finish.

 

Azienda Agricola PACE Langhe Nebbiolo, 2018

This Langhe Nebbiolo comes from vineyards in Canale, in the Roero appellation, across the river from Barolo and Barbaresco.

Medium deep color with characteristic orangeish tints. Has probably been made traditionally in large Slavonian oak barrels rather than barriques. A  bit tannic on the first night but opens up beautifully on the second night. Violets, rose petals, red cherries, black  licorice. Medium bodied and well textured Plenty of grip but flavors flow freely. Still young but no need to wait. What Nebbiolo is all about.

 

J-M Gerin Syrah La Champine, 2013

This Northern Rhone Syrah is just reaching the stage where the fruity flavors are beginning to evolve into savory ones. J-M Gerin is located in Cote Rotie, producing some very expensive wines that take those savory tones to their limit. This Syrah la Champine, though, is made with only a small quantity of estate fruit (from young vines) combined with grapes from IGP Collines Rhodaniennes. It's Gerin winemaking but not Gerin fruit and, as a result, is a relative bargain.

Still deep and dark with some bricking at the rim. Very expressive aromas--flowers, ripe black raspberries, anise. Savory notes of black olives with a hint of cured meats,  on the palate, qualities I love most about Northern Rhone Syrah and something rarely found in Syrah wines from the Southern Rhone or Australia. Acidity keeps it lively. Good wine.
  

Saumur Blanc Les Pouches, 2024

 Saumur is a good source for Loire Valley Chenin Blancc--generally drier than Vouvray and less expensive than Savennieres.  This Saumur Blanc is made by a cooperative, Cave des Vignerons de Saumur and sells for about $14 a bottle.

Light yellow, bright and clear. Beautiful aromas of white flowers, green apples and minerals. Straight out of the refrigerator, it's a bit tart. Let it warm for 20 minutes and you will be rewarded with rich flavors of lemon custard, melon and chalk. Pleasantly tangy, savory, salty. There is a lot to enjoy here.

 

Reserve Mont-Redon Cotes du Rhone Rouge, 2022

Chateau Mont-Redon is one of the top estates in Chateauneuf du Pape, making very long lasting red wines. The Reserve Mont-Redon label is for wines made from premium grapes purchased from nearby appellations of the Southern Rhone. This one is made primarily from Lirac produce, about 70% Grenache, 30% Syrah.

Deep and bright color. Enticing aromas, bright, fresh and already complex. Black as well as red fruits--raspberries, cherries. Medium bodied. Ripe fruit flavors, delicious right now but probably will gain depth and complexity over the next 5 yeaars or more. A very good Cotes du Rhone at a reasonable price. I paid $13.39 two years ago  at Saratoga Wine Exchange.
 

Domaine du Font-Sane Vieilles Vignes Ventoux, 2023

Font-Sane is one of my favorite producers of Gigondas, and for many years the estate's inexpensive Ventoux was one of my favorite every day wines. I bought it regularly in case quantities through the 1990s but I haven't been able to locate in my marketing area since the very good 2006. Dick Scheer managed to snag a few bottles of this 2023 for me, and I am grateful.

It is 7i0% Grenache, 30% Syrah from 50 to 60 year old vines. Winemaking is traditional with punching of the cap and 15 days fermentation in concrete vats.

Beautiful purple color. Many years ago, I remember drinking this wine in the backyard and having to fend off the dives of our local hummingbird, who apparently loved the color as much as we did. Flowers, raspberries, strawberries--oh, the hummingbird would love a taste. Medium body with Ventoux acidity and focus. Light peppercorn on the finish.
 

Ridge Califronia Geyserville, 1991

Since 1966, Ridge has been crafting excellent wines from 100 year old vines in Alexander Valley., its Geyserville estate. A field blend of Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Carignan, it is one of the most ageworty wines produced in California, and this 1991 is an excellent example.

Still a good deep, dark color. Vibrant bouquet of blueberries, grilled strawberries and fresh herbs. Very powerful. Has that essential sweetness that characterizes fine wines at full maturity. Warm and inviting. Combines the robust body of Zinfandel and Petite Sirah with the delicate texture of a Pinot Noir. Delicious plus.

 

Luigi Ferrando Carema Etichetta Bianca (White Label), 2006

Compared to the Covalli Barolo beside it at the table, this wine from Carema offers a different  face of Piedmont Nebbiolo. It is from the mountainous cliffs north of Barolo where the weather is cooler, the soil is different and the tannins are friendly at an earlier age. It is also 20 years old compared to 12 for the Barolo.

Lighter color, also with orangeish tones. Sips within the first two hours after opening showed peppery tannins. By mealtime, though, the wine was displaying all of the glories of an upper Piedmont Nebbiolo. Wild cherries, bright and fresh. Also some cranberries, sweet and savory herbs and minerals galore. Flavors that dart in and out, on and off the tongue. Incredible wine!

I paid $40.25 for this wine at auction 20 years ago, and I was well rewarded not only for paying the price but also for exercising due patience. 

Donna and I spent several days in Carema in October, 2019. It is a small village facing a huge rock face of mountain. Vines grow directly out of the rock  nearly everywhere you look and are harvested, by hand of course, on tiny rock terraces. At the time. Ferrando was the sole producer aside from the local coop known as Produttori di Carema. I spent several hours at Produttori, tasting many excellent, but less expensive, barrel samples of Nebbiolo. They are lying in wait in the cellar.

Covalli Barolo, 2014

When this wine was released, it got good reviews for its bright cherry and floral smells and flavors as well as its unbelievably low price of $15 at Costco and Garagiste. Tonight, it lacks all of those good qualities except the price tag. It is not over the hill, as many would believe, but is closed down for awhile until the iron-clad tannins typical for Barolo lose their grip.

Medium light with some characteristic orange tones. Pretty ordinary on the nose. Not much to like on the palate, either. Lots of acid, lots of tannin. I feel confident it will eventually come around, but I am not opening another bottle for awhile, maybe two or three years. 
 

G.D. Vajra Langhe Rosso, 2020

G.D. Vajra's Langhe Rosso is always a delight to drink. It is a blend of Nebbiolo, Barbera, Dolcetto, Freisa. Albarossa and Pinot Noir--all from the Piedmont.

Medium dark ruby with some orangeish tints, though not as much as you would expect from 100% Nebbiolo. The aroma, though, is pure Nebbiolo--very floral with dark cherries and pomegranates. Bright fruit on the palate with dark licorice on the finish. Engaging but maybe not quite as vibrant as bottles we had a few years ago. Even with a good portion of Nebbiolo, this is a wine to drink early and often.
 

Trader Joe's Reserve Lot #254 Rasteau, 2022

This wine brings back happy memories of the late 1980s, early 1990s when Cotes du Rhone Villages wines of this quality were readily available at prices that made them accessible for daily fare and approachable from day one. This Rasteau will probably improve over the next five to seven years, but it is so good tonight that there is no reason to wait.

Medium deep crimson. Bright red fruit smells and flavors--red raspberries, currants, pepper and spice. 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Cinsault, 10% Mourvedre. Great mouth feel with just the right balance of fruit and acidity. Long finish. For those familiar with Southern Rhones, this has the correct Rasteau personality and is a fantastic bargain for $9..99 at Trader Joes.