Domaine de la Roquete Chateauneuf du Pape, 2006

I am amused to think that this bottle is now in its 20th year; yet I think of it as one of my "young" Chateauneufs. I expect to open the 1988 Vieux Telegraphe for my birthday next week and know that the only surprises I will get will be positive ones.

The Brunier brothers of Vieux Telegraphe bought this estate in the early 2000s because they liked the old vineyards on the Plateau of Pielong. The soil is sandier than that of Vieux Telegraphe and, as a result, produces wines that are more accessible early. As stated on the label, the Bruniers' "priority is to express the character of the local terroir."

Good Chateauneuf color, bright and relatively dark. Has some sediment crust on one side; it has not been fined or filtered. 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre. Dark cherry, raspberry with a touch of menthol and garrigue. Strong fruit presence with a youthful edge but also the savory traits that I love in Chateauneuf du Pape. Great concentration and depth.