At first taste, this wine is remarkably similar to the Mount Langi Ghiran Shiraz below. Actually, that's not all that remarkable since both come from 1989 Syrah grapes and are made in a similar style--fruit oriented but not fruit bombs.
The appearance is similar: deep, dark ruby with significant crusting on one side of the bottle. The smells and flavors are also similar: red and black fruits, cassis and a hint of black olives. The Jaboulet Crozes is much less aromatic, however, and there is a smell of juniper berries that my wife considers offputting. Many Thalaberts from the 1980s have this juniper berry note, and I believe it comes from the seasoned barrels used at the estate during this time. On the palate, it's initially richer and fuller than the Langi with black olives more apparent. It's also more acidic. Over time, though, it fades, and, on the second night, it's not nearly as enjoyable. This wine is a bit old for its years, and it's still my least favorite Thalabert of the 1980s.
Thursday, March 15, 2012
Monday, March 12, 2012
Mount Langi Ghiran Langi Shiraz, 1989
I opened this wine in memory of the late Trevor Mast; 1989 was, I believe, his second vintage after buying Mount Langi Ghiran, and he considered the vintage a good one. I had a case of the 1989 and remember the lovely black pepper qualities that emerged during the first five years or so of its life. I haven't opened a bottle in recent years and am pleasantly surprised by the development.
The color is a deep, dark ruby with plenty of crusty sediment left on one side of the bottle. Wonderfully mature and aromatic Syrah; reminds me of a Hermitage la Chapelle of comparable age. Fresh berries and cassis. The black pepper has integrated into the fruit smells but still has a presence. Very much a French Hermitage. On the palate, it's full bodied, but oh so silky smooth and elegant--has the texture of a special wine. More acid lift and less thickness than your typical Aussie Shiraz, and that's to its credit, in my opinion. Hints of Provencal olives on the lovely ripe finish. Thank you, Trevor.
The color is a deep, dark ruby with plenty of crusty sediment left on one side of the bottle. Wonderfully mature and aromatic Syrah; reminds me of a Hermitage la Chapelle of comparable age. Fresh berries and cassis. The black pepper has integrated into the fruit smells but still has a presence. Very much a French Hermitage. On the palate, it's full bodied, but oh so silky smooth and elegant--has the texture of a special wine. More acid lift and less thickness than your typical Aussie Shiraz, and that's to its credit, in my opinion. Hints of Provencal olives on the lovely ripe finish. Thank you, Trevor.
Saturday, March 10, 2012
Trevor Mast, Australian Winemaking Legend, Dead at 63
I was saddened to learn of the death last week of Trevor Mast, age 63. Widely recognized as one of Australia's top winemakers, Trevor is best remembered by me as a generous man. He was generous with his time, his knowledge, his love of wine and his friendship. All of those who knew him will miss him greatly.
Actually, the devastating blow that culminated in Trevor's death came about six years ago when he was diagnosed with younger onset Alzheimer's disease. Since that time, his condition deteriorated rapidly, although he continued to live at home under the care of his wife, Sandra.
Sandra and my wife, Donna, were high school classmates, and we have kept in touch with the family for many years. When Donna and I visited the Masts in Melbourne a year ago, Trevor may have recognized us but he was unable to say more than a few words such as "yes" and "no." His superb taste for wine had left him. What we noticed and admired most during that visit was the loving care Sandra gave him and the strong bond that still linked them as husband and wife. It was truly touching to see. The burden of caring for a grown man with a mind that is rapidly regressing to that of a child is clearly more than most of us would want to face. I'm sure Sandra, their four daughters and the rest of their family are devastated at this time by their loss but at least it is a final blow and not the day-by-day loss that they have been experiencing for the last six years.
My thoughts of Trevor dwell on his overwhelming generosity. Knowing my love of wine, he never hesitated to share his vast knowledge. Long before he purchased Mount Langi Ghiran winery--while he was still an assistant winemaker at Seppelt's--he fell in love with the Shiraz grapes from a site in the Grampian Mountains, then owned by the Fratin brothers. Year after year, the Fratin brothers' grapes were used to make Seppelt's top-of-the-line Show Reserve Shiraz. Before buying the property in 1985, Trevor worked as a consultant for the Fratins and visited us in Kalamazoo, Michigan at a time when he was attempting to market Mount Langi wines in the United States. Shortly thereafter, Trevor and Sandra bought the property--beautifully situated in the mountains--and started making some of the first and best cool-climate Shiraz wines in Australia. Trevor loved the Hermitage wines of Jaboulet and Chave (as I do), and he succeeded beautifully in emulating that style. Introducing that style to an Aussie wine-buying public accustomed to big, bold, highly extracted Shiraz wines was no easy task, but Trevor was up to it. My experiences tasting alongside him at wine store tastings or at home are treasured memories. With his boyish charm, tousled red hair and good humor, he was never intimidating but could somehow guide you to find the best qualities in the wines you were tasting. I remember when he asked me to taste through his complete line of barrel and recently bottled samples and write down my impressions. He nodded and respected my judgment, and it was several weeks later that I discovered that my favorite wine of the tasting was one of his failures. "The Cabernet fruit for that year was very light, and it ended up getting way too much oak," he said. "I don't know how I'll ever get it out." Australian and American wine drinkers like the smell and taste of oak, and Trevor took a risk when he started giving them less, rather than more of it. He once turned down the job of winemaker at Taltarni, he told me, because the winery wanted a more extracted style of wine than he was willing to make. Ultimately, Trevor's style and taste won the day, with me, and with many other wine lovers.
When my family last visited the estate, Mount Langi Ghiran wines were selling for about $10 to $12 a bottle. After the Langi Shiraz was featured, along with Grange Hermitage and Henschke's Hill of Grace, on the cover of the Wine Spectator, the price quickly went to $40 and beyond. Trevor and Sandra later sold the winery with Trevor staying on as a consultant for a few years until the effects of his illness made it difficult to continue. Losing Trevor Mast is a major blow to his family, his friends, his colleagues and everyone who likes the lovely taste and smell of real Australian Shiraz. Trevor's memory is in the glass, and it will linger.
Actually, the devastating blow that culminated in Trevor's death came about six years ago when he was diagnosed with younger onset Alzheimer's disease. Since that time, his condition deteriorated rapidly, although he continued to live at home under the care of his wife, Sandra.
Sandra and my wife, Donna, were high school classmates, and we have kept in touch with the family for many years. When Donna and I visited the Masts in Melbourne a year ago, Trevor may have recognized us but he was unable to say more than a few words such as "yes" and "no." His superb taste for wine had left him. What we noticed and admired most during that visit was the loving care Sandra gave him and the strong bond that still linked them as husband and wife. It was truly touching to see. The burden of caring for a grown man with a mind that is rapidly regressing to that of a child is clearly more than most of us would want to face. I'm sure Sandra, their four daughters and the rest of their family are devastated at this time by their loss but at least it is a final blow and not the day-by-day loss that they have been experiencing for the last six years.
My thoughts of Trevor dwell on his overwhelming generosity. Knowing my love of wine, he never hesitated to share his vast knowledge. Long before he purchased Mount Langi Ghiran winery--while he was still an assistant winemaker at Seppelt's--he fell in love with the Shiraz grapes from a site in the Grampian Mountains, then owned by the Fratin brothers. Year after year, the Fratin brothers' grapes were used to make Seppelt's top-of-the-line Show Reserve Shiraz. Before buying the property in 1985, Trevor worked as a consultant for the Fratins and visited us in Kalamazoo, Michigan at a time when he was attempting to market Mount Langi wines in the United States. Shortly thereafter, Trevor and Sandra bought the property--beautifully situated in the mountains--and started making some of the first and best cool-climate Shiraz wines in Australia. Trevor loved the Hermitage wines of Jaboulet and Chave (as I do), and he succeeded beautifully in emulating that style. Introducing that style to an Aussie wine-buying public accustomed to big, bold, highly extracted Shiraz wines was no easy task, but Trevor was up to it. My experiences tasting alongside him at wine store tastings or at home are treasured memories. With his boyish charm, tousled red hair and good humor, he was never intimidating but could somehow guide you to find the best qualities in the wines you were tasting. I remember when he asked me to taste through his complete line of barrel and recently bottled samples and write down my impressions. He nodded and respected my judgment, and it was several weeks later that I discovered that my favorite wine of the tasting was one of his failures. "The Cabernet fruit for that year was very light, and it ended up getting way too much oak," he said. "I don't know how I'll ever get it out." Australian and American wine drinkers like the smell and taste of oak, and Trevor took a risk when he started giving them less, rather than more of it. He once turned down the job of winemaker at Taltarni, he told me, because the winery wanted a more extracted style of wine than he was willing to make. Ultimately, Trevor's style and taste won the day, with me, and with many other wine lovers.
When my family last visited the estate, Mount Langi Ghiran wines were selling for about $10 to $12 a bottle. After the Langi Shiraz was featured, along with Grange Hermitage and Henschke's Hill of Grace, on the cover of the Wine Spectator, the price quickly went to $40 and beyond. Trevor and Sandra later sold the winery with Trevor staying on as a consultant for a few years until the effects of his illness made it difficult to continue. Losing Trevor Mast is a major blow to his family, his friends, his colleagues and everyone who likes the lovely taste and smell of real Australian Shiraz. Trevor's memory is in the glass, and it will linger.
Tuesday, March 6, 2012
A-Mano Italian Pinot Grigio, 2010
I've written before about the young American/Italian couple who produce this wine. The winemaker, Mark Shannon, was trained in California, but he and his Italian partner, Elvezia, have bought vineyards in the bootheel of Italy. I've liked past vintages of both the Pinot Grigio and the Primitivo.
Medium deep yellow with bright tones. The label mentions apples and peaches, but I smell mostly peaches, ripe pears and nuts. This 2010 is not quite as crisp as previous vintages and leans toward the fuller bodied Pinot Gris style. Not as delicate or tightly focused, but I still like the broad fruit and nut flavors. And it's lively and fresh enough to make it a good wine for serving on the deck this spring and summer. At $7.95 a bottle, it's well worth a try.
Medium deep yellow with bright tones. The label mentions apples and peaches, but I smell mostly peaches, ripe pears and nuts. This 2010 is not quite as crisp as previous vintages and leans toward the fuller bodied Pinot Gris style. Not as delicate or tightly focused, but I still like the broad fruit and nut flavors. And it's lively and fresh enough to make it a good wine for serving on the deck this spring and summer. At $7.95 a bottle, it's well worth a try.
Domaine l'Oratoire Saint-Martin Cotes du Rhone Villages Cairanne Cuvee Prestige, 1998
The "drink up" label I put on this wine in June of last year was apparently premature. At the time, I detected some alcohol showing on the finish, but I don't find anything wrong with this bottle. It has turned yet another corner and is now even more special.
Sediment is forming, but the color is still a good deep ruby with only hints of amber. The bouquet is classic for this wine and its appellation: cherries (dark and red), Provencal herbs, berries and a hint of cinnamon. The wine is showing maturity in the best sense; all of its parts have come together nicely. Crinkly Grenache berries and spice on the long, beautiful finish. Many of the grapes in this cuvee come from 98-year-old vines, and that shows in the wine's personality. It's very, very hard to take the glass from your nose and mouth.
Sediment is forming, but the color is still a good deep ruby with only hints of amber. The bouquet is classic for this wine and its appellation: cherries (dark and red), Provencal herbs, berries and a hint of cinnamon. The wine is showing maturity in the best sense; all of its parts have come together nicely. Crinkly Grenache berries and spice on the long, beautiful finish. Many of the grapes in this cuvee come from 98-year-old vines, and that shows in the wine's personality. It's very, very hard to take the glass from your nose and mouth.
Tuesday, February 28, 2012
Domaine de la Janasse Cotes du Rhone, 2005
Domaine de la Janasse is a top producer of Chateauneuf du Pape, but I'm perfectly satisfied tonight with this simple Cotes du Rhone from the estate. The bouquet has developed nicely with scents of red berries, spices and flowers. Just a bit of garrigue. As the Vinsobres is dark and haunting, this CDR is bright and extraverted. Very classy. The flavors are ripe and round but not at all simple. Trips lightly across the tongue. Reminds me a bit of a good lower tier red
Burgundy. I had one or two bad bottles of Domaine de la Janasse Cotes du Rhone from a case, but this bottle is not among them. It's singing right now.
Burgundy. I had one or two bad bottles of Domaine de la Janasse Cotes du Rhone from a case, but this bottle is not among them. It's singing right now.
Perrin & Fils Cotes du Rhone Villages Vinsobres Les Cornuds, 2004
You don't read or hear much about Vinsobres; and you don't see many Vinsobres wines on the shelves. But from my somewhat limited experience, I would say that it's probably the most underrated appellation in the Southern Rhone. This wine, from the Perrin brothers who produce Chateau Beaucastel and La Vieille Ferme, is a prime example. The bouquet is immediately appealing: black pepper, spice, black fruits and minerals. On the palate, it's much more accessible than the Chaume-Arnaud Vinsobres from the same vintage that I have reported on before. Pepper, licorice and minerals; dark tones that are typical of Vinsobres. According to the label, 35% of the cuvee was aged in new French oak, but the oak has integrated nicely. Smells and tastes like a traditional Southern Rhone. And it has the qualities that attract me to Vinsobres.
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