This Cotes du Rhone was recommended to me by Rod Johnson, now head of the wine department at Plum Market in Ann Arbor. For more than 20 years when he was on the staff at Village Corner, Rod reliably steered me toward Rhone wines that pleased my palate, and this time was no exception. Neither he nor I had heard of this label, but I found online that Cellier des Chartreux is a large wine store, operating sort of like a cooperative, between Chateauneuf du Pape and Avignon. I visited a similar outlet near Beaume de Venise a couple of years ago.
As I expected, this is a traditionally made Cotes du Rhone. It's a deep crimson color, and it smells as a Cotes du Rhone should--black and red berries with ample garrigue--very forward. The wine has good body, strength and just the right degree of ripeness and warmth (13.5%). Long spicy finish. There is a pleasing tang to the fruit flavors that reminds me of the Delas Saint Esprit Cotes du Rhone, one of my favorites of the 2007 vintage. I suspect there is a good bit of Syrah and maybe some Cinsault in the blend.
For $7.99 a bottle, my only regret is that I didn't buy more.
Saturday, December 26, 2009
Woodbury Alexander Valley Old Vines Vintage Port, 1979
Port or Vinho do Porto is fortified wine in the Portuguese style, of course, and true Port has always been priced reasonably enough that I am rarely tempted to buy look-alikes from California, Michigan, South Africa or Australia. This wine I bought more than 25 years ago because it had been marked down from $9.95 to $1.99. At that time--and even 10 years ago--it had a greenish, weedy quality to the aromas and flavors so powerful that it was disagreeable to drink. That may have been the reason it was marked down so drastically. After 30 years, the green quality is still there but it has faded into the background, and the result is a lush dessert wine.
It's a medium light brownish ruby, about the color of tawny Port. I still smell some greens, similar to what might be expected from a New World Merlot or Carmenere--not at all unattractive. Also burnt sugar, toffee, caramel, walnuts. This is more like a tawny Port or an Australian Muscat than a vintage Port, but it is very nice.
It's a medium light brownish ruby, about the color of tawny Port. I still smell some greens, similar to what might be expected from a New World Merlot or Carmenere--not at all unattractive. Also burnt sugar, toffee, caramel, walnuts. This is more like a tawny Port or an Australian Muscat than a vintage Port, but it is very nice.
Friday, December 25, 2009
Chateau des Coulinats Sainte Croix du Mont, 1983
Sainte Croix du Mont is a neighbor of Sauternes and Barsac. And since this area typically gets less botrytis (the noble rot) in its vineyards than its more well known neighbors, these wines are less well known and less expensive. I think I paid less than $40 for 24 half bottles of this old favorite.
The color has turned from deep old gold to a light pinkish color, as is often the case with older dessert wines. The nose though is as beautiful as ever--botrytis honey, dried apricots and figs. The wine is rich and oily on the palate with grassy Semillon flavors along with honey, apricots and marzipan. Good complexity. Hide the price tag and this could easily pass for a big-ticket Sauternes.
I haven't noticed any Sainte Croix du Mont wines in my area in recent years, but wines from Loupiac are similar in style and quality. Chateau La Rocque Loupiac can be found for about $15/half bottle or less--a good price. When young, these wines usually display scents of almonds, coconut and pastry along with dried apricots and a hint of honey. As the wine ages, the honey may become more prominent, and the almonds more like marzipan.
The color has turned from deep old gold to a light pinkish color, as is often the case with older dessert wines. The nose though is as beautiful as ever--botrytis honey, dried apricots and figs. The wine is rich and oily on the palate with grassy Semillon flavors along with honey, apricots and marzipan. Good complexity. Hide the price tag and this could easily pass for a big-ticket Sauternes.
I haven't noticed any Sainte Croix du Mont wines in my area in recent years, but wines from Loupiac are similar in style and quality. Chateau La Rocque Loupiac can be found for about $15/half bottle or less--a good price. When young, these wines usually display scents of almonds, coconut and pastry along with dried apricots and a hint of honey. As the wine ages, the honey may become more prominent, and the almonds more like marzipan.
Clos Mont Olivet Chateauneuf du Pape, 1988
This wine and the Napa Cellars Cabernet below were good companions on the Christmas dinner table--both wines mature and stately but with clearly focused flavors to accompany the roast lamb dinner.
The color is a medium light crimson; as with the Napa Cellars, it's light but bright and full of life, not a bit faded. Cherries dominate the nose plus the ripe red berries you expect from Grenache. There is also Provencal spice, saddle leather and a hint of tobacco leaf. All so beautifully delineated. On the palate, it's silky smooth, an elegant mouthful of wine, much like a fine Burgundy. It's pretty rather than powerful. And I love it.
The color is a medium light crimson; as with the Napa Cellars, it's light but bright and full of life, not a bit faded. Cherries dominate the nose plus the ripe red berries you expect from Grenache. There is also Provencal spice, saddle leather and a hint of tobacco leaf. All so beautifully delineated. On the palate, it's silky smooth, an elegant mouthful of wine, much like a fine Burgundy. It's pretty rather than powerful. And I love it.
Napa Cellars Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, 1979
I've had many fine Napa Cabernets from the mid- to late-1970s, but this is perhaps my favorite. Although many California Cabs of this era were huge and powerful, this wine has always stood out for its elegance. And at 30 years of age, it is still shining brightly.
The color is a light ruby--light but bright with no browning and very little amber. The nose is typical Napa Cab--mint, currants, berries nicely focused. And it sits lightly on the tongue. This wine has never aspired to be a show wine and today it is just as self assured in its noble elegance. It's lighter in color and texture than it was the last time I had it (perhaps a decade or more ago), but it's every bit as enjoyable.
The color is a light ruby--light but bright with no browning and very little amber. The nose is typical Napa Cab--mint, currants, berries nicely focused. And it sits lightly on the tongue. This wine has never aspired to be a show wine and today it is just as self assured in its noble elegance. It's lighter in color and texture than it was the last time I had it (perhaps a decade or more ago), but it's every bit as enjoyable.
Wednesday, December 23, 2009
Edna Valley Vineyards Paragon Edna Valley San Luis Obispo Chardonnay, 2005
Edna Valley Chardonnay is now widely available for under $10 a bottle, and it's a good value for those who like a barrel fermented style of Chardonnay. Edna Valley is a good appellation for Chardonnay, but the dominant character of this wine comes from barrel fermentation and aging in 90 percent new French oak. The vintage on the market right now is the 2008, but the 2005 is still drinking well, nearing the end of its maturity curve.
The color is medium deep gold, and the wine is generally showing more maturity than it did last April. Aromas and flavors offer up brown butter and apples and still a hint of lime and white peaches. Barrel fermentation has given the wine a creamy texture that fills the mouth.
The color is medium deep gold, and the wine is generally showing more maturity than it did last April. Aromas and flavors offer up brown butter and apples and still a hint of lime and white peaches. Barrel fermentation has given the wine a creamy texture that fills the mouth.
Tuesday, December 22, 2009
Chateau de la Roulerie Coteaux du Layon Le Cerisier, 2003
Some of the best values in dessert wines come from the Coteaux du Layon appellation of the Loire Valley. While Loire dessert wines made from the Chenin Blanc age very well, this one is showing very well in its youth.
The color is a medium deep gold. The grapes clearly had a good dose of botrytis, the "noble rot" that contributes to the greatness of Sauternes. I smell honey, melon and citrus--fairly developed for a six-year-old wine. There is lively acidity again in the mouth along with honey and just the right level of sweetness. It's a perfect match for key lime pie, although the pie is clearly sweeter than the wine. Citric tang on the finish.
I can't remember when or where I bought this wine, but the price tag says $16.99 for a full 750 ml bottle--an excellent value.
The color is a medium deep gold. The grapes clearly had a good dose of botrytis, the "noble rot" that contributes to the greatness of Sauternes. I smell honey, melon and citrus--fairly developed for a six-year-old wine. There is lively acidity again in the mouth along with honey and just the right level of sweetness. It's a perfect match for key lime pie, although the pie is clearly sweeter than the wine. Citric tang on the finish.
I can't remember when or where I bought this wine, but the price tag says $16.99 for a full 750 ml bottle--an excellent value.
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