Monday, February 8, 2010

Frenzy Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, 2008

While La Vieille Ferme is meeting my expectations for aging (see below), this Sauvignon Blanc--incredibly exciting when I first tasted it last July--is now a bit disappointing. It still has high acidity freshness but the complex range of flavors it offered a few months ago (gooseberry, melon, passion fruit, spring flowers) has quickly been reduced. Grapefruit is now the dominant theme. It's still a nice wine, but I would recommend drinking any bottles you have over the next few months.

La Vieille Ferme Cotes du Ventoux, 2005

The 2008 La Vieille Ferme Rouge has hit the market. I haven't tried it yet but have read positive reports. Meanwhile, I can tell you that the 2005 LVF is still drinking nicely with nice fresh berry aromas and flavors and a pleasantly ripe finish. Like most Ventoux wines, La Vieille Ferme is made for early drinking, but in a good vintage such as 2005 or 2007, it's safe to buy it in case quantities for drinking over two to four years. I still have some bottles from 2004, 2005, 2006 and 2007. All are drinking well, but the 2007 is clearly the best, both for now and later. If I saw both the 2007 and 2008 on the shelf today, I would buy the 2007.

Saturday, February 6, 2010

San Silvestro Ottone I Piemonte Barbera, 2007

In the Piedmont region of Italy, Barbera is generally a second course wine, served with cold meats, pasta, pizza or salads. If you can't decide between a white or red wine, a Barbera such as this Ottone I Piemonte Barbera will meet your needs. It's been fermented and aged in stainless steel with 100% malolactic fermentation.

The color is a deep ruby red with good brightness and bluish tints. Aromas and flavors are wonderfully fruity--dark cherries, strawberries and a hint of purple flowers. Yes, it's almost jammy, and that's part of its charm. But there is also substance and structure from skin and tannins. Bring out the pizza and keep on drinking and enjoying. By the end of the meal, you'll decide that this wine is more than a simple quaff.

Loimer Lois Gruner Veltliner, 2007

I'm a relative newcomer but quickly becoming a fan of Gruner Veltliner, a versatile Austrian white. It has the high acid, low alcohol intensity to match up well with vegetable centered meals or spicy Asian food.

This wine has a simple white label with the word Lois printed in light green to match the green screw cap closure. The wine inside is equally elegant and deceptively simple. Give it time and attention, and you'll be rewarded. Aromas and flavors feature slightly underripe apples, lime, flowers, minerals and just a hint of green--only a fraction of what you'd expect from a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Some tasters have mentioned white pepper and lentils. On the palate, the wine is fresh and intense but very smooth with a mineral-tinged finish.

I paid a bit more ($15) than I usually spend for an every day wine, but this wine is worth the premium. I'll go back for more.

Monday, February 1, 2010

Camille Cayran Cotes du Rhone Villages Cairanne Reserve, 2004

This wine is a medium ruby, slightly burnished, nearing maturity. A fruit-cake bouquet is forming, rich and compacted: red cherries, strawberries, licorice and spice and a hint of volatility. On the palate, the wine is well balanced and smooth with a concentrated mid-palate presence and a peppery finish.

Camille Cayran clearly does not have the depth of a l'Oratoire Saint Martin (my favorite Cairanne), but it's a good Cairanne made in the old-fashioned style. This 2004 is for drinking soon, but I'll be on the lookout for later vintages.

Glazebrook Ngatarawa Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, 2005

This New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is another half-price special right now at Harding's Market in Kalamazoo. Glazebrook is the former Corban's--an old-line Marlborough winery, and Ngatarawa is a prized micro-climate for Sauvignon Blanc. The wine is on sale undoubtedly because Sauvignon Blanc, with a few exceptions, is not generally known for aging, and the label itself states that the wine is for drinking within three years of the vintage date.

While the wine has undoubtedly changed in personality over five years in the bottle, it still has good fruit and freshness. High acid gooseberry, honey dew melon, lime and green chilies dominate the aromas and flavors. It's racy, almost spritzy on the palate. All Sauvignon Blanc and very enjoyable for $5.99 a bottle.

Sunday, January 31, 2010

Houghton Western Australia Cabernet-Shiraz-Merlot, 2004

The Cabernet/Shiraz blend is distinctively Australian, and this wine has all the typical smells and flavors of Cab/Shiraz--black plums, anise, berries and currants. From Western Australian vineyards and with some Merlot in the blend, this Houghton offering is a bit cooler and less thick than many Aussie wines. There is a good whiff of green herbs and black tea from the Merlot and slightly under-ripe Cabernet-- bit too much green for my taste, but Merlot lovers will appreciate it. Actually, this herbal element adds the acidity that the typical Aussie Shiraz usually lacks. Tannins are friendly.

I bought this 2004 at Harding's Market in Kalamazoo, marked down from $15.99 to $7.99. It's a good buy for current drinking.