The pleasing qualities of this wine come more from the oak treatment than the fruit. It's fresh and lively on the nose and the palate with some Chardonnay apple and lemon zest. More dominant, however, are the French oak traits of grapefruit and toast. It's pretty typical of one style of Aussie Chardonnay, and at $8.99 it's a very good value.
The former Reynolds' Chardonnay vineyards in the high-altitude Orange district of New South Wales apparently are now bottled under the Climbing label. If you can find them, they are undoubtedly worth a few extra dollars for the special qualities of Orange Chardonnay.