Not everyone likes mature white wines. I do , and this 1997 Premier Cru Chablis has everything that I expect...and a bit more. The color is a deep gold but still lighter and brighter than the 1999 Gruner Veltliner I reported on a couple of weeks ago. And the bouquet is beautiful: lime (both the fruit and the soil), white peaches, flowers. Many subtle facets to explore and enjoy. On the palate, the wine is ripe and round but still fresh. No oxidation in this 15-year-old white, either on the nose or the palate. Instead, age has brought out all the subtle elements of soil and grape. Long, finish.
Gilbert Picq uses stainless steel, no new oak, for his Chablis wines, all of which come from old, well situated vineyards. His price is always a bit lower than his Chablis brethren; the quality, always near the top.