This wine provides a perfect example of why I prefer French to New World Chardonnays. Rully is a lesser appellation in Burgundy, only slightly above Macon and nowhere near the prestige level of a Puligny Montrachet or Mersault. Yet for me, wines from Rully and Montagny offer the depth and complexity that I expect and want from a Chardonnay.
The Rully Mollepierre 2004 was a bit of a disappointment just a few months ago. I thought it was prematurely advanced and a little tired. Last night the ugly duckling had developed into a beautiful swan. The color is a medium gold, as before, but the nose shows significantly more depth and development--citrus and green apple, yes, but also nuts and grains, plump and lovely. All of those qualities are confirmed on the palate--nothing showy but an elegant, graceful presence that blends nicely with the flavors of broiled rainbow trout with lemon, capers and olive oil. Unlike most white wines, this one becomes better as it warms, with all of the subtle flavor elements becoming more defined.
No offense intended against New World Chardonnays nor those who love them, but this, for me, is what Chardonnay is all about.