Edna Valley Vineyard Edna Valley San Luis Obisop Paragon Chardonnay, 2003

Chardonnay is capable of aging well for 10, 15, 20 years or more. I've had 15-year-old white Burgundies even from lesser appellations such as Saint Aubin and Montagny that were beautiful. In 2005, I had a 1987 Tyrrell's Vat 47 Hunter Valley Chardonnay that was very well preserved. I have had Edna Valley Vineyards Chardonnays in the past that have aged well for six to eight years. Not this one; it has all the qualities of a nine-year-old "premox" Chablis: overly deep color; stale, oxidized aromas; and a somewhat bitter taste. Some of the Edna Valley mineral qualities can still be detected if you search for them. But there's not much pleasure left in this wine.