Tatiarra Cambrian Heathcote Shiraz, 2004

The Cambrian soil on which these grapes were grown is, according to the estate, more than 500,000,000 years old--presumably the oldest soil in the world. I am not sure that old soil matters as much as old vines in producing quality wine. Even so, this wine is special.

The cork crumbles even though it is completely dry and there is no sign of past leakage. Just a cheap cork, I decide, and this wine deserves better. Very deep and dark. Lush and luxurious. Black berries, very ripe plums and fig. A touch of tobacco on the finish. 15.5% alcohol, but the wine carries it well, perhaps because of higher than expected acidity. Old soil or not, Heathcote is capable of producing top quality Shiraz, and this is a delicious example.