Sunday, September 28, 2025

Stolpman Vineyards Cuadrilla Ballard County Red Blend 2023

This is a wine I found on the wine list at Zingerman's Road House in Ann Arbor. It's a Southern Rhone blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre plus some Sangiovese. As a long-time fan of Southern Rhone wines, I don't detect any real similarity to a Cotes du Rhone, but it is an enjoyable wine, and I was happy to learn that profits from this particular wine are returned to the vineyard workers--the cuadrilla or "crew."

Deep and dark. Black and red berries, purple plums, lavender. Lots of Syrah qualities. A plush, fruit-filled wine with some weight and complexity on the mid-palate. A good match for the iconic Grillade and Grits dish that is always on the Roadhouse Sunday menu.
 

Saturday, September 27, 2025

Franco Serra Nebbiolo Langhe, 2015

I have long been a fan of Franco Serra's Barbera d'Alba, an excellent value at $10 to $12. More diffiult to find in my markets, this Franco Serra Nebbiolo Langhe costs only $2 to $3 more and is an even greater value.

Medium garnet with the orangish tints characteristic of Nebbiolo. The characteristic smells and flavors of Nebbiolo are also present. Flowers and tea on the nose Dark cherries, tobacco and black licorice on the palate. Full bodied (although only 13.5% alcohol) with asssertive tannins that fill the mouth and coat the tongue. Dry and savory. Delicious berry fruit on the finish. Suggestions of Barolo at a fraction of the price.
 

Tuesday, September 23, 2025

Tatiarra Cambrian Heathcote Shiraz, 2004

The Cambrian soil on which these grapes were grown is, according to the estate, more than 500,000,000 years old--presumably the oldest soil in the world. I am not sure that old soil matters as much as old vines in producing quality wine. Even so, this wine is special.

The cork crumbles even though it is completely dry and there is no sign of past leakage. Just a cheap cork, I decide, and this wine deserves better. Very deep and dark. Lush and luxurious. Black berries, very ripe plums and fig. A touch of tobacco on the finish. 15.5% alcohol, but the wine carries it well, perhaps because of higher than expected acidity. Old soil or not, Heathcote is capable of producing top quality Shiraz, and this is a delicious example.

Monday, September 22, 2025

E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone Blanc, 2023

 

I have been a fan of Guigal's red Cotes du Rhone for nearly 50 years.  I rarely buy the white Cotes du Rhone, though, and this bottle tells me I have been missing something.

Medium light color. From the first sniff, I start thinking "Viognier," and it is indeed 60% Viognier. Lovely aromatics, pink and white flowers, honey. Apricot flavors on the palate and medium body echoing well constructed blend of Roussanne, Marsanne, Clairette, Bourboulanc and Grenache Blanc. Elegance, freshness, strength and purity.

Thursday, September 18, 2025

Schlumberger Pinot Gris Reserve Speciale, 1983

1983 was a great year for wine lovers. The vintage was very good through most of France, and prices in the U.S when the wines reached the market.were low due to a favorable exchange rate and other factors. I bought a lot of Bordeaux and Sauternes, and nearly all are drinking beautifully today. For the Alsace wies I bought, the drink by date is long past, of course.. But this 1983 Pinot Gris from Schlumberger is offering pleasure tonight to one who appreciates old wines.

Very deep gold, similar to a Sauternes of comparable age. Still has fruit and spice flavors--apricot, nectarine, melon and clove. And the palate is rich and full. Smooth with no hard edges. Much drier than most Alsace wines on the market today, and that is a plus for me. Matches well with pork schnitzel.

Tuesday, September 16, 2025

Trader Joe's Reserve Lot #254 Rasteau, 2022

Like Vinsobres, Rasteau is very close to Vaison la Romaine--about 6 miles to the west as opposed to 6 miles to the north. So I opened this wine tonight so I could see the similarities, if any, between the two wines and their appellations. The Vinsobres is 52% Grenache, 48% Syrah. The Rasteau is 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Cinsault and 10% Mourvedre.

Medium ruby, very similar to the Vinsobres. Probably stainless steel and concrete. Classic Southern Rhone: fresh strawberries and red raspberries with peppery spice. More red fruit than the Vinsobres, more acidity, less alcohol (14.5% vs 15%) and more intense smells and flavors. Also has been in the bottle for an additional year. This is my kind of wine. Excellent value at $9.99.
 

Sunday, September 14, 2025

Trader Joe's Reseerve Lot #263 Vinsobres, 2023

 

My introduction to Vinsobres came several years ago at a small bistro in Vaison la Romaine in the Southern Rhone. It was incredibly inexpensive (about $1.50 a glass) and incredibly good. I learned that the Vinsobres appellation is just a few miles away from Vaison. This Trader Joe's Reserve is also inexpensvie ($9.99 a bottle) but not as good as the wine I had in Vaison nor in more expensive bottles I have  had since such as the Perrin family's Vinsobres Les Cornuds. But it is still worth the price.

Medium ruby, bright and clear. No sign of new oak aging. 52% Grenache, 48% Syrah, but has the upfront friendliness of wines with higher Grenache content. Fresh berries along with black pepper and licorice. Fruit flavors seem somewhat dilute compared to some of my Southern Rhone favorites, perhaps because of the relatively high alcohol (15%). . But the wine is drinking well right now, and I will buy more if I see it again on the shelves.

Wednesday, September 10, 2025

Chateau Tahbilk Goulburn Valley Victoria Cabernet Sauvignon, 1986

This Cabernet from Tahbilk has been in the bottle for nearly 40 years, and I expected it to taste like an antique. Not so. The wine is drinking beautifully, showing the graces rather than the defects that come from aging.

Bright and dark, some browning at the edges. Cabernet smells of bright cherry and currants. Savory salinity that brings out subtle nuances. Tobacco and minerals. Has been aged in French oak, but I don't detect any oak influence at this stage. Blends beautifully with the flavors of red wine braised beef.

The label states that acidity is 6.15 g/L with a pH of 3.60 and 12.5% ABV. That's much more acidic than most wines today. And that may well be the reason it tastes so delicious after 39 years in the bottle.
 

Monday, September 8, 2025

Villadoria Bricco Magno Nebbiolo Langhe, 2013

The estate makes clear on its webssite that this wine is made in a modern, international style. I tend to lean toward the traditional style of Nebbiolo, but I must say that I find no fault with this wine whatsoever.

Deep ruby with bricking near the rim. Cherries, roses, violets, black tea, vanilla and coffee. Full bodied. Good tension between acid, tannin and ripe fruit. Expresses the powerful rather than the elegant side of Nebbiolo. More like Barolo than Barbaresco. Multi-dimensional finish.
 

Saturday, September 6, 2025

Bava Piano Alto di Crena Nizza, 2014

At its best,  Barbera can be very good. And the best Barberas often come from Nizza, a commune in the Monferrato area of the Piedmont in Italy. Insiders have long known that the soil and climate there are perfectly suited to the growth of Barbera grapes, but it was not until 2014 that wine authorities granted Nizza special DOCG status. The Nizza designation on the label is now sufficient to identify the wine as Barbera of a high quality.And Bava's Piano Alto di Crena, from the estate's oldest and best sited vineyards, is one of the earliest and best examples of the new DOCG.

Medium ruby, lightening at the rim. Bright and clear. Enticing Barbera bouquet of fresh cherries and a touch of mint. Red and black currants, tobacco and pepper on the palate. Tannins are grippy but ripe and lovely. Characteristic Barbera acidity keeps it lively and in perfect balance. 

Thursday, September 4, 2025

Domaine Marcel Coutourier Saint Veran La Cour des Bois, 2018

Saint Veran is a Chardonnay from the Macon area of Southern Burgundy, very close to Pouilly Fuisse. This one from Marcel Coutourier matches precisely what I like about the appellation. It has depth, complexity and personality.

Deep gold color, substantially darker than the last bottle I had two years ago. Otherwise it has many of the same qualities but probably should be drunk soon. Pears, white flowers, toasted almonds and blood orange zest. Medium light body, light oak. Much better as it nears room temperature--a good sign for any white wine. Savory, saline notes on deep fruited finish.