Mollydooker Blue Eyed Boy McLaren Vale Shiraz, 2021

I have always tended to avoid Mollydooker wines, probably because of the gimmicky names of their wines. And they do tend to be almost a parody of the Aussie style: bold, oaky and alcoholic. Yet in two blind tastings over the past year, I have rated Mollydooker wines very high. There is no denying their hedonistic attraction.

Very deep and dark, bluish. This wine is Shiraz but I get a chocolate-tinged Cab/Shiraz nose. Black curraants, plums, eucalyptus, coffee, dark chocolate. Grabs your attention and hangs on. Lush and full bodied on the mid-palate but lots of heat on the finish. Becomes more intense and complex as the wine aerates. I gave it 17.5 points and, despite the obvious heat, was surprised to learn of its 16.0 alcohol by volume.

I was even more surprisead by the $70 price tag. For that price, I could get two or three bottles of a very good Crozes-Hermitage or Saint Joseph with more flavor, less oak and lower alcohol.