Famille Perrin Cotes du Ventoux Rouge, 2022

Even for a Tuesday night dinner, I twisted the screwcap about an hour early. Even so, this Ventoux kept getting better throughout the meal, offering everything I expect from a good Southern Rhone.

Lovely bright crimson/violet color. Scents of red and blue berries plus a hint of violets. Vibrant Grenache berries. Cinsault and Carignan spice. Syrah black pepper. Just enough tannin to balance the fresh acidity. Very enjoyable wine.
 

Paul Jaboulet Aine Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert, 1994

I love Jaboulet's Crozes-Hermitage Thalabert and have consumed numerous bottles since the early 1980s. I find a consistent charm and depth that I identify immediately with Thalabert. But the wine also undergoes changes, and I see these as neither good nor bad but representative of the changes that are part of life. My last bottle, six years ago, was redolent of black and green olives, a trait I love in Northern Rhome Syrah. Those traits are not present tonight but replaced by hints of cured meats..

Lots of bricking seen on a small pour but deep and saturated color in a full glass. Bouquet is not as intense as it was six years, but flavors are full of the Thalabert charm ad complexity. Black fruits and a few red fruit tones. Hallmark Thalabert finish that captures my full attention and approval.

 

Pelissero Barbera d'Alba Tulin, 2009

In Italy's Piedmont region, Barbera is generally an every day drinking wine. But Barberas are capable of aging gracefully...as exemplified by this wine from Perlissero.

Deep, bright, beautiful ruby red. From the first sip, this Barbera says luxury. Boysenberries, black raspberries, black currants, vanilla. A powerful wine with noticeable tannic structure but has the acidity to balance the lush fruit and firm tannins. I didn't aerate but wish I had; it keeps getting better and more complex. Showing beautifully right now at 16 years of age but will probably get better over the next few years.

Chateau Cissac Haut Medoc, 1970

The 40 year-old Chateauneuf worked just fine for me last night so I decided to push back even deeper for a 55-year-old Bordeaux. This 1970 Cissac is no longer the full bodied youngster we drank during the 1980s, but it is still a decent drink and a good accompaniment for birthday leftovers.

Not much ullage and an intact cork. Bouquet a bit muted, some cigar box. Tertiary flavors as well but great balance and smooth mouth feel. Cherry-like acidity, currant-like fruit.

I bought several bottles of this ($10) at Gold Standard Liquors on Rush Street in Chicago in the early 1980s. It was already mature enough to drink at the time with tannin and acidity to suggest long-term aging.
 

Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape, 1985

Itt was sitting there in the cellar, now 40 years old, showing a little bit of ullage due to past leakage from the cork. But it was Vieux Telegraphe, and I knew it would still be a great wine. What better choice for my 86th birthday?

Brickish red with a small pour but still deep and bright in the glass. I gave it two hours of aeration, but it was showing best at about three hours and more. Still needs swirling to reveal aromatic Provencal herb aromas and a little bit of funk. Flavors are fantastic and getting better with each sip. Dried cherries, leather, sea salt. Sweet and savory. Savory and sweet. Great balance. Haunting flavors. Great wine. I am so happy being 86 and drinking this beautiful 40 year old wine.

 

Louis Latour Puligny Montrachet, 1990

 

March is my birthday month (86 this year), and I use this time to dig out some long neglected bottles in my cellar to see if they are aging as well as I feel that I am. This 375 ml bottle of Puligny Montrachet has some pluses and some minuses.

When I removed the capsule, the cork was indented a bit, indicating that it could have been exposed to excessive cold at some time before I purchased it 30-some years ago. Deep gold color. Still some floral scents among the oxidized notes. Also sliced apples and citrus. Flavors are bold and attractive with impressive depth complexity on the finish. Balance is still excellent. I can drink this happily for the next night or two..

Paul Jaboulet Aine Cote Rotie Les Jumelles, 1982

I bought a case of this Cote Rotie for less than $100, believe it or not, and had it shipped to Kalamazoo from Brown Derby Wines in Springfield, MO. That was an excellent price, even then, but bottles opened in the early to mid-1990s were a bit disappointing. They were way too young, of course, and bottles consumed around the turn of the century were much better. This final bottle, tonight, is fantastic, and I wish I had saved a few more.

Medium deep garnet with considerable bricking. Some floral scents (violets?) along with minerals and red and black fruit. Excellent acidity that captures the essence of this wine at the front of the tongue and guides it along the palate to a powerful finish. Dried cranberries and raspberries, black olives, iron and sea salt. Very savory. Does not quite measure up to bottles of Jaboulet's Crozes-Hermitage Thalabert from the 1980s, but has many of the same qualities.
 

2 Lads Old Mission Peninsula Pijnot Grigio, 2016

2 Lads Winery, located on the crest of a hill in the top part of Old Mission Peninsula (near Traverse City) is one of our favorite places to visit. We go there at least once every summer to taste wine and then enjoy a charcuterie platter on the lawn outside overlooking the bay. Donna has a glass of the Pinot Grigio; I have a glass of one of the Rieslings.

When I saw this 2 Lads Pinot Grigio at our local Crosstown grocery for a price ($15.99) that is less than the price at the winery, I was pleased. Not until I got the bottle home did I note the 2016 vintage date, a red flag for any white wine. I believe it is the first nine-year-old Pinot Grigio I have ever had, but I was very pleasantly surprised.

Fairly deep lemon yellow. Ripe pears, honeydew melon and lime. The zesty fresh smells and flavors I remember from past tastings have filled out and developed nicely. Now richer, deeper and more complex. I haad no idea Pinot Grigio could age so well. I love it.
 

Hidden Hill Estate McLaren Vale Shiraz, 2021

The days of the $5 Ausie Shiraz are long gone, unless you are okay with Yellow Tail or similar "critter wines," high in alcohol and sugar. This Hidden Hill Estate wine, selling for $5.99 at Trader Joe's, is a notable exception. The grapes come from vineyards on the Fleurieu Peninsula of McLaren Valle, a highly respected appellation. And it is several leagues higher than Yellow Tail.

Deep, dark ruby. Coconut, blueberries and dark chocolate. Bright up front fruit and ripe tannins. Pleasant finish, but not very complex, at least at this stage. For $5.99, though, it is an excellent choice for frequent every day use. I will buy more.
 

Domaine Sainte-Anne Cotes du Rhone Villages Notre Dame des Cellettes, 2011

In Saint Gervais, on the Gardois side of the Rhone River, Domaine Sainte-Anne produces several tiers of Cotes du Rhone wines, all of which are long-term favorites of mine: Cotes du Rhone, Cotes du Rhone Villages, CDR Villages Notre Dame des Cellettes and CDR Villages Les Rouvieres (formerly Saint Gervais). All age very well. Notre Dame has the third highest rank in price, just below Les Rouvieres.

Medium dark ruby indicative of 20-30% Syrah and 10-20% old vine Mourvedre to go with 60% Grenache. Red and black raspberries, currants and anise with a slightly peppery finish. Still has noticeable tannins but they are friendly and add rather than subtract from the ripe flavors. Long, complex finish. Drinking well now.
 

TuaTea Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, 2024

Whenever I see this at Trader Joe's, I buy a bottle or two. It's only $6.99, and, for my taste it is a step or two above other Sauvignon Blancs in this price range.

Bright straw color. Grapefruit, lemon zest, pears and melon. I don't detect any pyrazines (green bell pepper, celery), and that is a plus for me. It is slightly grassy, and that is another plus. Smooth texture. Clean, refreshing finish.
 

ROCO Marsh Estate Yamhill-Carlton Pinot Noir, 2010

The Yamhill-Carlton AVA is a good one, home to some of my favorite estates such as Willakenzie and Elk  Cove. Marsh Estate Vineyard is located on a lower slope near the Dundee hills.

Light in color, light in body, big in flavor--that defines good Pinot Noir, and this is a good one. Pretty floral scents, "hauntingly bittersweet" according to rhe Wine Advocate review. On the palate, I get tangy red berries, anise, black pepper and lime zest. Fine grained tannins and  a long, satisfying finish. A good match for Atlantic salmon.
 

Arnaud Lambert Breze Clos du Midi Saumur, 2018

With aeration and vigorous swirling in the glass, this opened up, giving great Chenin Blanc richness and concentration.

Medium deep gold. Rich Chenin Blanc bouquet: ripe pears, apricots, wild flowers and a bit of honey. Easy going on entry, then gets richer, more complex and more concentrated as it travels down the palate. Lots of pleasure now, and I am sure it will get even better for those who have the patience and the time to wait.
 

Olarra Gran Reserva Rioja, 1970

This wine is 55 years old, and the ullage is low shoulder. I had low expectations which were quickly demolished. This is a great wine!

Bright and color with an inch or more of bricking around the edges. No sign of oxidation! Clean and bright smells and flavors. Black fruits, ripe and lovely. Lifted bouquet of mint and aromatic spices. The texture is what amazes me the most: silky smooth, as light and as powerful as a fine Pinot Noir. Fabulous finish.

 

Ermanno Costa Cascina Spagnola Roera Riserva San Defendente, 2012

Pietro Costa was a sharecropper on these vineyards in Roero in the 1950s, and his grandson Ermanno bought the Cascina Spagnola farmhouse plus 2 hectares of vineyards in 1978. Ermanno's children now run the property, still only 16 hectares, a true artisanal operation. The sandy soil on this side of the Tanaro River produces Nebbiolo grapes that are highly aromatic and lighter bodied than the Barolo and Barbaresco wines from the other side of the river. This 2012 Roero Riserva is probably the best wine from this appellation I have tasted.

Light garnet, brickish but typical for Nebbiolo. Classic Nebbiolo nose: dark cherries, rose petals, black licorice. Intense and gorgeous. Flavors to match, powerful and multi-faceted. Well balanced with enough acid and tannin to carry this wine for at least another decade. A Barolo-like finish. Fantastic experience.

Langmeil Long Mile Barossa Shiraz, 2022

I bought this bottle at my local Trader Joe's, but the price ($12.99) is pretty much what you would pay elsewhere. Nevertheless, I still consider this a very good value.

Typical deep, dark Shiraz color. Very aromatic and more oriented toward the fruit rather than the oak aging. Black berries, plums, anise seed and mint. Some black pepper tones emerge with aeration. Vibrant on the tongue, more acid and less sweetness than you would expect from a stereotypical Barossa Shiraz.

My local Trader Joe's sold out quickly, but staff assured me that more is on the way. I hope so.
 

Couloir Oppenlander Mendocino Ridge Pinot Noir, 2010

I have had many excellent Couloir Pinots, mostly from Roma's and Mountain Tree Vineyards in Anderson Valley. I have also had several highly memorable Pinots from the Oppenlander Vineyard, mostly from Phillips Hall. When I spotted this Oppenlander from Couloir, I was thinking "double pleasure," and I was mostly right, although it probably falls a bit short of the 2006 and 2007 Oppenlanders from Phillips Hall and the 2007 Couloir Roma's Vineyard--high standards, indeed.

Medium ruby. Freshly picked cherries and strawberries, mushrooms, earth and a hint of coriander on the finish. Medium body, vibrant acidity and maybe a bit too much tannin on the mid-palate for my taste. The finish leaves a pleasant and long-lasting impression.

Chateau Courac Cotes du Rhone Villages, 2020

This wine is still young and powerful. After an hour or two of aeration, though, it began to reveal its full, exciting fruit profile. It is 50% Syrah, 30% Grenache, 10% Mourvedre and 10% Counoise, an unusual blend for a CDR Villages.

Beautiful deep ruby. Syrah showing. Black fruits--plums, cherries, berries--plus herbs, savory olives, black pepper and licorice. Deep and concentrated. This is a serious wine that will become ever more complex and delicious. I bought it for $15.90 from Wines Till Sold Out.
 

Point Ormond Victoria Shiraz, 2020

 

The label gives Victoria as the appellation, but I believe that most of the grapes come from Heathcote, a Victorian sub-appellation with a good reputation for producing Shiraz. The wine, selling for $15 at Plum Market in Ann Arbor, is an outstanding value.

Bright medium ruby. From the first sniff, I get powerful smells of fresh berries, red and black, on a background of aromatic herbs and a touch of eucalyptus.  Fresh and enticing. Ripe fruit up front, supple tannins in the middle, mouthwatering finish. Blackcurrants and blue berries on the palate. If you have any of this, I see no reason to wait. It is delicious and inexpensive enough to drink frequently.

Elyse Le Corbeau Hudson Vineyard Los Carneros Red Wine, 2007

This wine is 90% Grenache and 10% Syrah, "echoing," according to the label, "the great wines of Chateauneuf du Pape." Last year, we enjoyed the 2005 and 2006 Le Corbeau, which seemed to me more like good CDR Villages wines rather than Chateauneuf du Papes. This 2007, though, comes closer to the real thing.

Bright crimson, deeper than most Chateauneufs of comparable age. Raspberries, strawberries, peppercorn and vanilla. Ripe fruit up front, then supple tannins on the mid-palate and a slightly warm (14.4%), deep fruited finish
 

Willakenzie Estate Willamette Valley Chardonnay, 2018

Thanks in large part to the Dijon Clone imported from France in the 1980s, the Willamette Valley of Oregon has become my go-to choice for Chardonnay. These wines are good when released and become increasingly better after seven or more years in the bottle.

Medium deep gold. Wonderful smells--white flowers, ripe pears, apples, minerals and a touch of honey. Good fruit/acid balance and a long, delightful finish. More aromatic than the 2017 Dijon Clone Chardonnay from Willamette Valley Vineyards we had last week but not quite as creamy or complex on the palate. No complaints, though, this is a fabulous wine.

Chronicle Winery Savoy Vineyard Alexander Valley Pinot Noir, 2009

Chronicle Winery is in the Alexander Valley; the best known Savoy Vineyard is in rhe Anderson Valley, near Philo.I suspect the Alexander Valley appellation was a mistake made on the label. Whatever the appellation, this wine is very good.

Medium deep ruby. Intense smell and flavors of cherry, pomegranate, red flowers and vanilla. Medium body, medium plus acidity, 13% ABV. Tannins are noticeable but oh so ripe and delicious.
 

Domaine Schlumberger Kessler Alsace Gewurztraminer, 1983

 It's Chinese New Year, and we're having pork dumplings and Chinese green onion pancakes. It's the perfect meal for Gewurztraminer, but I rarely buy Gewurz because I know no one who would be keen to drink it with me. Deep in the recesses of my cellar, though, I find a dusty bottle that I bought 40-some year ago. Dead or alive?

Deep, deep gold, almost copper colored. Yes there is oxidation but also some pleasant fruit and floral smells and flavors. Rose petals on the nose. Dried figs and apricots on the palate with a pleasant finish. Slightly salty; not as sweet or spicy as I expected. Actually, seems more like a well aged Pinot Gris than a spicy Gewurztraminer. Definitely old but definitely alive.

Willamette Valley Vineyards Dijon Clone Chardonnay, 2017

 After travelling with a group to the French area of Burgundy for advice, Jim Bernau of Willamette Valley Vineyards played a major role in introducing the Dijon clone of Chardonnay into Oregon vineyards. And it was an American Wine Society tasting with Bernau that introduced me to unique qualities of Willamette Valley Chardonnay. 

Medium yellow gold. Enchanting scents that carry over beautifully into the flavors. Ripe pear, white peach with peel, toasted coconut and a touch of honey. Sleek texture with bright acidity and lush fruit flavors. Long, vibrant finish.

Taylor Fladgate 10-Year-Old Tawny Port, NV

Another left-over from the Christmas table, still drinking beautifully.

The color is tawny of course: deep brick with some amber at the edges. Intense but elegant bouquet developed through 10 years or more in the barrel. Ten years refers to the average but with a Taylor Tawny, you can count on a little exaggeration to the up side rather than the down side. Very fine oak frames the complex flavors: ripe red fruits, toasted nuts, chocolate, figs and citrus zest. Very smooth, very long. When I visited Taylor Fladgate about a decade ago, I was particularly impressed with the 20-Year Tawny, and it is undeniably a giant step up. For the price, though, and for more frequent drinking, I am happy with this 10-Year-Old Tawny.
 

Lustau East India Solera Sherry, NV

This bottle was opened during the Christmas season and has been resting since then in the cool cellar. Tonight it tastes even better than it did a month ago, probably because I have more time and energy to savor all it has to offer--which is a lot.

Medium deep garnet. Rich and creamy, as expected but so complex: dates, figs, nuts, maple sugar, toffee, coffee, dark chocolate, orange peel. Great acidity to cut through the sweeness and lead to a profound finish. 
 

Cabriz Dao Portugal DOC, 2014

The Dao wine region in Portugal is mountainous with relatively cool temperatures compared to the rest of Portugal. I find the wines from there to be more elegant and less tannic than those from the Douro. This wine is made from 40% Alfrocheiro, 40% Tinta Roriz (known as Temperanillo in Spain) and 20% Touriga National.

Bright garnet/ruby. Good depth and saturation. Intense fruit on the nose and on the palate. Red fruit, hints of tobacco and black pepper. Great balance. More like Pinot Noir than Temperanillo. I have had several bottles of this over the past five years, and this is probably the best.
 

Tenuta Arnulfo Costa di Bussia Barbera d'Alba, 2016

I had this 2016 Barbera at a tasting at the estate in October of 2019. It was very good at that time and is even better tonight.

Medium deep violet/ruby. Enticing bouquet of black raspberries, flowers and spice. Much of the same on the palate: dark cherries, cloves with white pepper on the finish. Deep fruit, ripe and delicious. Energetic mouth feel that awakens and teases the taste buds. I paid $12.49 for this bottle at D&W in Kalanazoo in March of 2019. More recent vintages have been more expensive.
 

Domaine de la Croix Senaillet Saint-Veran, 2017

The climate and clay/limestone soil around the villages of Saint-Veran and Davaye (where this estate is located) are ideal for growing the crisp, elegant style of Chardonnay that I prefer. It's a style similar to that of Pouilly-Fuisse but usually at a lower price.

Medium deep yellow. Pears, lemons, minerals. Medium bodied. Crisp, elegant, subtle. Full range of flavors on the long, satisfying finish. Seems to be in its prime but has the acidity to keep for at least another year or two. I bought at auction for $15.
 

Hidden Hills Estate McLaren Vale Shiraz, 2021

Inexpensive Australian Shiraz, whether from Trader Joe's or elsewhere, is difficult to find these days. And any such wines that are available are commercially made from high-yield, low quality vineyard fruit from southeast Australia. Hidden Hills Estate, available at my local Trader Joe's store for $5.99, is a notable exception. The grapes come from one of the best appellations for Shiraz, the Fleurieu coast of McLaren Vale. And the wine is very good.

Medium deep ruby/violet. Red as well as black fruit. Rich, ripe Shiraz with a nice acidic edge. Oak that enhances the fruit rather than overwhelming it. And a finish that leaves me ready to come back for more. Tastes to me like a Shiraz that might sell for $15 or more.
 

Elio Sandri (Cascina Disa) Barbera d'Alba Superiore, 2012

I have had several bottles of this Barbera d'Alba since buying it in 2017. This one is by far the best. But, alas, it's the last of the lot.

Medium beet red. Bright with minimal signs of age. In fact, it is just coming into its own. Nebbiolo-like bouquet of rose petals and dark cherry. Same on the palate, and also some Nebbiolo-like black licorice. Tannins that braced earlier bottles have faded away, leaving delectable fruit and mouth watering acidity. An excellent Barbera; reminds me of the Nizza Barbera I had last week.
 

Trader Joe's Grower's Reserve California Chardonnay, 2023

I bought this wine ($5.99 at Trader Joe's) for cooking over the holidays, and it served its purpose. With one bottle left over, I brought it tonight to the dinner table, and it was equally at home in that context.

Medium yellow. Red Haven peaches and canteloupe. Good balance of sweet fruit and bright acidity. Subtle oak. According to the label, the wine is made by ASV Wines from organic fruit. The winery is located in Monterey's Arroyo Seco region, and I suspect at least some of the grapes come from there. For $5.99, it will grace my dinner table again.
 

Mildara Barossa Valley Cabernet Shiraz, 2O21

After a long absence, good value Australian wines are now to be found on the shelves of my local Trader Joe store. This one, selling for $5.99 is a good choice for every day drinking.

Medium dark ruby. Black berries, black currants, coffee and vanilla. Tannins are soft and there is enough acidity to add freshness. 71% Cab, 29% Shiraz. The Shiraz fills doughnut hole in the middle. A great value.
 

Le Piane La Maggiorani Colline Novaresi Rosso, 2015

This amazing wine is from Boca in the mountainous far north of Italy. From 80 to 100 year old vines, it is 40% Nebbiolo, 40% Croatina and 20% miscellaneous indigenous grapes. The soil is very acidic, iron rather than limestone, and is a major feature in the wine.

In the center, the color is quite saturated--bright red with bluish tints. The garnet/orangeish tones of Nebbiolo are noticeable around the rim. With aeration, I get beautiful floral scents--violets and roses--mixed with red and purple fruits. Firm, grippy trannins and concentrated fruit that clings to the palate. Iron and spices, white pepper on the finish. Savory rather than sweet, almost tart in its acidity. Delicious.

This is the entry level red from Le Piane. I paid $17for it in November, 2018 at Eataly in Chicago. Other Boca wines from Le Piane are usually priced at $40 and up. I'm sure they are even more spectacular.

Chateau Feuillet Valle d'Aostra Torrette, 2016

This wine, a Kermit Lynch selection, comes from Valle d'Aosta, a mountainous area in the extreme northwest of Italy, near the border with France. It's a cool climate that gets abundant sunshines. The grapes are Petit Rouge (90%) and Mayolot (10%), and the wine after malolactic fermentation is aged in stainless steel and a small amount of wood for eight monrhs.

Bright red, medium dark. Fresh, fresh, fresh aromas of violets and red fruit. Fruity but very dry on the palate. Essence of red raspberries, red plums, spice and black pepper. Intense flavors that seem to hit all the taste buds. Hard to quit sniffing and sipping.