Wednesday, December 3, 2025

Domaine du Seminaire Cotes du Rhone Village Valreas, 2019

Domaine du Seminaire is located in the foothills of the Alps in the northern part of the Southern Rhone.  ThisValreas comes from old vines on clay limestone soil, and the wine is traditionally made, matured in concrete vats. No oak

Deep ruby. 80% Grenache, but the red berry and black pepper traits typical of Grenache are not as prominent as you might think. 10% Syrah and 10% Mourvedre produce darker tones of black and blue berries, blue plums and cassis. Firm tannins but sleek texture on the mid-palate and finish. Beautiful now but will probably improve.

Saturday, November 29, 2025

Domaine du Pegau Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reservee, 1989

When I first started drinking wine in the late 1970s, Vieux Telegraph and Beaucastel were only Chateauneufs imported into my marketing area in Michigan.  They were and are great wines; I bought and loved both. A decade later, J.C. Mathes, a professor of technical writing at the University of Michigan, traveled to the Rhone, formed J et R Wines and started importing a large portfolio of excellent Southern Rhones into the state and surrounding area. Domaine du Pegau was one of his selections, and I immediately fell in love with it, a liaison that continues to this day, even though the wine, now selling for about $100 a bottle, is no longer within my wine buying budget. 1989 was my introduction to Pegau, and it is still my favorite.

Dark crimson, still bright; lightening at the borders. It takes awhile for the bouquet to open but it is well worth the wait. Very aromatic: cherries, earth, rosemary and thyme. And the flavors are even more enticing. Full bodied and rich. Sweet fruit backed by savory tones of tobacco, sea salt and black olives. Powerful, powerful finish. The perfect match for rack of lamb.

Friday, November 28, 2025

Salexis Napa Valley Beckstoffer Carneros Lake Vineyard Chardonnay, 2019

This Salexis wine has all of the qualities associated with top-rated California Chardonnay in a very attractive package.

Deep gold, looks more mature than it is. Lively smells and flavors--tropical fruit, oak, toasted brioche, butter, vanilla, a touch of honey. Rich and full bodied but equally fresh and vibrant. Would be very enjoyable on its own or at the dinner table. 

Nothing cheap about this wine. It sells for about $30 but I bought it for a bit less through Wine Spies.
 

Thursday, November 27, 2025

Chateau Poujeaux Moulis-en-Medoc, 1982

I may have consumed my half case of 2005 Greysac too early, but I probably waited a bit long to finish my half case of 1982 Poujaeaux, purchased more than 40 years ago. Compared to the bottles I had in 2015 and 2016, this bottle is showing some decline. Nevertheless, it is still very enjoyable so I am not at all disappointed.

Medium ruby, still almost as dark as the 2005 Greysac but shading to garnet a bit earlier. Red currants and cherries here plus cassis, leather and cedar. Still has that Poujeaux charm on the mid-palate; ripe and generous. Memories of past greatness show up on the lovely finish.
 

Wednesday, November 26, 2025

Chateau Greysac Medoc, 2005

 

I am often, with good reason, accused of holding on to wines too long in the cellar. To be honest, though, over the years I  remember more regrets from drinking  a wine too early than too late. Such is the case with this 2005 Greysac. I bought half a case for $12 a bottle in 2012, and this, the last bottle, is clearly the best of the lot with more in the tank.

Deep color with some bricking at the edges. Classic Bordeaux bouquet has developed. Black currants, cassis. Medium bodied with silky texture. Seems rather straightforward and unassuming but gains considerable depth and complexity through the course of the meal. 

I have bought many vintages of Greysac and, because of the price and reputation, have never taken the estate all that seriously in terms of aging. For the excellent 2005 vintage, at least, I was wrong.

Saturday, November 22, 2025

DeLille Cellars Roofline Oregon Chardonnay, 2020

DeLille Cellars is located in Washington and specializes in Bordeaux-style wines. Chardonnay, obviously, is not grown in Bordeaux, and the grapes for Roofline come from Oregon.

Medium deep gold. Lively smells of flowers, lime and melon. Has an acidic edge and mineral flavors I associate with Oregon Chardonnay. At this stage of development, I don't detect the lemon curd texture I love in Chardonnays from Willakenzie, Willamette Valley Vineyards and Sokol Blosser wines. For a general Oregon appellation  (not even Willamette Valley), however, Roofline offers an impressive array of complex, savory smells and flavors.
 

Thursday, November 20, 2025

G.D. Vajra Clare JC Langhe Nebbiolo, 2022

G.D. Vajra has excellent vineyards and makes some of the best, and highly priced, Barolos. The estate also produces excellent wines for mid-week consumption such as the G.D. Vajra Rosso, which I buy as often as possible. This Clare JC, which the estate created to emulate the Barolos of two and three hundred years ago, falls into the same category--light and fresh, highlighting the beauty of the Nebbiolo grape. It sells for about $20 a bottle.

Medium light garnet. Fresh berries more than cherries, violets more than roses. but unmistakeably Piedmont Nebbiolo. Aromas and flavors that expand over the course of the meal. Crisp on the mid-palate, ripe on the finish. Not a Barolo but not a quaffer. Clearly a wine that demands to be taken seriously. For $20, I am a buyer.
 

Tuesday, November 18, 2025

Rosa dell'Olmo Langhe Nebbiolo, 2022

Priced at $7.99 at Trader Joe's, this has to be one of least expensive Nebbiolos available anywhere. But while ir may lack the majesty of Barolo and Barbaresco, it is unmistakeably Nebbiolo and an excellent value.

Light ruby/garnet n color with orangish tones typical of Nebbiolo that has not been aged in barriques--a plus for me. Has all the classic smells and flavors--cherries, roses, violets, raspberries and a touch of black licorice--understated but clearly present. Also that characteristic dryness on the mid-palate, even though the wine is surprisingly high (4.g/L) in residual sugar. (Acidity is 5.5 g/L.) Light in body and power for a Nebbiolo but that doesn't detract from its presence at the dinner table. It goes very well with an Autumn vegetable-oriented meal. 

Will it age? I really don't know but I have never met a Nebbiolo wine that didn't gain complexity and depth with several years in the bottle.

Sunday, November 16, 2025

Tinazzi Valpolicello Ripasso Superiore Collezione di Famiglia, 2018

If you haven't tried a Ripasso, it's time you do so. It's a close relative of Amarone that gives much of the richnerss of Amarone at a lower price. Amarone is made from a combination of fresh and dried grapes. Ripasso blends fresh Valpolicello wine with the leftover grape skins and seeds from the making of Amarone and ferments it a second time, a process that adds complexity, body, tannins and richness. This Ripasso from Tinazzi, purchased for $14.99 from MegaBev (formerly Russo's) in Grand Rapids a couple of years ago, is probably the richest, most complex Ripasso I have had and among the best wines I have tasted over the past five years.

Bold, dark color as expected. Incredibly complex bouquet: raspberries, dark cherries, vanilla, chocolate...and more. Rich texture with layer after layer of deep, complex flavors. By nature, Ripasso is slightly sweet, but you wouldn't know it because of the bold, delightfully bitter tannins on the finish. Opens with a flourish, ends with an bang.
 

Friday, November 14, 2025

Cartograph Wines Mendocino Ridge Perli Vineyard Pinot Noir, 2013

Mendocino Ridge is always one of my search terms when I browse for wine. I have had some extraordinary bottles from this AVA, a cool climate area hanging above the Anderson Valley and the north Pacific Coast. It is a non-contiguous area, but only elevations above 1200 feet qualify. This is my first encounter with Cartograph Wines, and it is a pleasing one.

Darker than most Pinots in color. Also darker in smells and flavors. At 1800 feet, the Perli Vineyard is above the fog line and, as a result, gets more exposure to sunlight. Black and blue berries, flowers, anise seed and earth. Ripe and friendly with a nice acidic edge. Drinks beautifully now but has good tannic structure for aging.
 

Tuesday, November 11, 2025

Willakenzie Estate Willamette Valley Chardonnay, 2018

 Even though the appellation for this wine is simply Willamette Valley, 70% of the fruit comes from the estate (Yamhill-Carlton) with the other 30% from nearby Dundee Hills--both excellent AVAs for both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Color turning from yellow to light gold, bright and clear. Chardonnay apple and citrus in an elegant package. Lemon curd, savory spices, white peaches, honey and a touch of butter. Combines intensity and richness. Long, satisfying, complex finish.

Sunday, November 2, 2025

Costa di Bussia Barbera d'Alba, 2016

 

Vineyards for this wine are on the Bussia Hill near Monforte d'Alba, a beautiful area in the Piedmont hills. Donna and I spent several days at the estate's B&B in 2019.

Medium ruby, has lightened a bit over the last few years. Cherries, dark berries, earth, a touch of clove. Medium bodied, rich texture, characteristic Barbera acidity. This wine has spent some time in new oak but tannins have softened and ripe fruit is showing through. Delicious, medium long finish.

Paul Jaboulet Domaine Thalabert Crozes-Hermitage, 1996

Even though it is now 29 years old, I had no hesitation opening a bottle of the 1996 Domaine Thalabert Crozes Hermitage. Thalaberts from the 1980s and early 1990s in my cellar have demonstrated the ageworthiness of this estate and this vineyard.

Cork is long and shows only a tiny line of red at the lower end. Medium dark ruby, clear and bright. Has the Thalabert profile and personality. Black currants, cassis, leather. Ripe, almost lush but with characteristic intensity and acidity. Long, complex Thalabert finish. Probably not as good nor as ageworthy as Thalaberts from the 1980s or early 1990s but still very good.
 

Saturday, November 1, 2025

ici/la bas Elke Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir, 2009


Crafted by Jim Clendenen of Au Bon Climat from fruit sourced from Mary Elke's Donnelly Creek Vineyard, ici/la bas is a long-time favorite of mine. I loved the wines from 1996, 1997 and 2006. This 2009 may be a tad less intense but nevertheless a special wine.

Medium light ruby shading to garnet. Wild red raspberries and cranberries, leather and spice. Ripe fruit with pleasing acidity. Medium long finish. Not as intense as the 2006 but no complaints.

Tuesday, October 28, 2025

Epicuro Puglia Aglianico, 2022

The meal featured spinach pie, Greek lemon potatoes and Greek salad with feta cheese. I chose this wine to accompany it because it has a sneaky amount of sweetness to counter the salty, lemony flavors of the meal. It worked well.

Deep and dark. Blackberries, dark cherries and spice. Lush and smooth. 13% alcohol and residual sugar that is just below what many tasters detect. Well received. We also had the 2024 version which was more fruit forward but not quite as smooth or aromatic. For $5.99 at Trader Joe's, this and other wines from Epicuro are excellent values.
 

Sunday, October 26, 2025

Notre Dame des Pallieres l'Olivet Cotes Du Rhone Villages Sablet, 2019

The village of Sablet is very near Gigondas, where the estate is located. As the name suggests (sablet = sandy), the soil is sandy, resulting in wines that are highly aromatic with more supple tannins than those in Gigondas. 

Medium deep, bright dark cherry color. This wine is a 60/40 blend of Grenache and Syrah--more Syrah than most CDR wines and that is showing. More black than red berries, dark cherries, anise seed and a touch of black pepper. Not at all like Gigondas but unique smells and flavors that I like. Ripe fruit, supple tannins, tasty finish..

Thursday, October 23, 2025

2 Lads Old Mission Peninsula White Pinot Noir, 2023

I have had many Michigan Pinot Noirs, including those from 2 Lads, that I have found very disappointing. Not so for this white Pinot Noir, that I liked enough to bring home from the tasting room. After a year in the bottle, it is even better.

Light pink color, almost a rose. Smells like a Pinot Noir. Tastes like a Pinot Noir. Fresh red berries and cherries, well defined and detailed. Great acid/tannic balance. Shows the delicacy and depth of a good Pinot Noir. I poured out half a glass a half hour before dinner so I could taste the wine at room temperature as well as chilled. I preferred the room temperature; Donna, the chilled version. Take your choice; it's a nice wine.
 

Tuesday, October 21, 2025

Point Ormond Victoria Shiraz, 2020

A few months ago, I tagged this as a drink now wine. It has beautiful up front fruit and ripe tannins that lead to a long, delicious finish. With this bottle, as some Syrah complexity begins to emerge, I see signs of aging potential.

Medium dark, no oak, according to the winemaker. Black fruits--berries, plums, currants--plus some lavender, black pepper and leafy notes. Also hints of black olives reminiscent of bottles of Jaboulet's Domaine Thalabert Crozes when I drank them in their youth in the 1980s. Who knows? Whatever, the wine sells for $14.99, and I am a buyer.

Saturday, October 18, 2025

Gaggino Convivio Dolcetto di Ovada, 2018

There are some misconceptions about Dolcetto  wines, primarily because of the name, which translates from the Italian as "little sweetie." The Italians had a different reason for this name, probably related to the little hills where the grapes are best grown. If I were limited to one word to describe this wine, it would not be "sweet" but rather "bitter." For my taste, though, it is a pleasant bitterness, like the bitterness of fine coffee.

Very deep and dark red. Black fruit and dark grape skin tones. No oak that I can detect but plenty of tannin. Compared to Barbera, Dolcetto is generally high in tannin, low in acidity, but this Dolcetto has enough acid to balance the bitter and lead to a firm, delicious finish.
 

Thursday, October 16, 2025

G.D. Vajra Langhe Rosso, 2020

If you have $40 to $90 to spend on a bottle of wine, G.D. Vajra has many good choices for you. If you have $15, the estate's Langhe Rosso will give you plenty of pleasure--tonight, next week or next year. It is made from grapes from young vines of several denominations--Nerbbiolo, Barbera, Dolcetto, Albarossa, Freisa and Pinot Noir. And it is perfectly blended to bring out the best of all of them.

Medium ruby. Not much new oak, if any. Beautiful smells of roses, violets and fresh fruit. Cherries and more cherries--tart enough to tease your taste buds and sweet enough to give pleasure. Enough tannins to provide a firm structure but supple enough to let the flavors shine through. I can't find anything to fault with this wine, except that I never buy enough.
 

Tuesday, October 14, 2025

Willamette Valley Vineyards Dijon Clone Chardonnay, 2017

When Jim Bernau of Willamette Valley Vineyards went to Burgundy in France for advice about growing great Chardonnay grapes in Oregon, he came back with Dijon clones which continue to be the source of his WVV Bernau Block Chardonnay. The estate's Dijon Clone Chardonnay sells for about half the price and is also excellent.

Full yellow gold. Unique smells and flavors: white peaches and cream, honey, lemon curd. Rich texture but not buttery. Long, deep, complex finish One of the favorite whites at our table.
 

Sunday, October 12, 2025

Domaine de la Solitude Cotes du Rhone, 2023

I have never tried the Chateauneuf du Pape from Domaine de la Solitude, but it is well regarded. The estate was one of the first to use new oak, with mixed results at best. This Cotes du Rhone, though, was clearly made in the traditional style, and it satisfies my standards for Cotes du Rhone.

Medum ruby, bright and clear. Red berries, plums, spice, black pepper. Intensely fruity with fine, ripe tannins. Nothing in this wine that is not inviting. Everything I like in a Cotes du Rhone, and it sells for $13.99 at Plum Market in Ann Arbor. Should drink well for another two or three years so but why wait?
 

Tuesday, October 7, 2025

Kirkland Signature Friuli Grave Pinot Grigio, 2023

Trader Joe's is always a good place to find inexpensive Pinot Grigio wines, but this one from Costco is just as cheap ($4.99) and, in my opinion, much better. Grapes come from the cool climate Friuli region in the Alps of northeastern Italy, considered one of the best regions for Pinot Grigio.

Very pale, bright and clean. Some floral notes in the aroma. Very refreshing: green apple, lime, pear and honeydew melon. Lean and clean with just the right amount of acidity and fresh fruit. For $4.99??
 

Saturday, October 4, 2025

Famille Perrin Ventoux Rouge, 2022

Through most of the late 1980s and early 1990s, La Vielle Ferme VentousRouge was a staple on my shopping list. Since it sold for less than $3 a bottle, I would buy at least a case every year and finish it off by the end of the year. I never aged it but am sure it would have improved over 3 to 5 years or longer. La Vieille Ferme is still available, but the grapes no longer come from Ventoux. The equivalent today, produced by the same Perrin family, is this Ventoux Rouge. It is available for about $7 at Plum Market in Ann Arbor, and I have seen it on the shelves at Sawall's Health Foods in Kalamazoo for a dollar or two more. It is still a big favorite of mine, demonstrating all of the best qualities of the Southern Rhone.

Medium ruby, bright and clear. Grenache strawberries covered with freshly ground black pepper. Syrah body and structure and Carignan spice. Drinks so beautifully at every stage of development and with any meal--from fine dining to carry out pizza. This is my last bottle; I must go and get more.
 

Sunday, September 28, 2025

Stolpman Vineyards Cuadrilla Ballard County Red Blend 2023

This is a wine I found on the wine list at Zingerman's Road House in Ann Arbor. It's a Southern Rhone blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre plus some Sangiovese. As a long-time fan of Southern Rhone wines, I don't detect any real similarity to a Cotes du Rhone, but it is an enjoyable wine, and I was happy to learn that profits from this particular wine are returned to the vineyard workers--the cuadrilla or "crew."

Deep and dark. Black and red berries, purple plums, lavender. Lots of Syrah qualities. A plush, fruit-filled wine with some weight and complexity on the mid-palate. A good match for the iconic Grillade and Grits dish that is always on the Roadhouse Sunday menu.
 

Saturday, September 27, 2025

Franco Serra Nebbiolo Langhe, 2015

I have long been a fan of Franco Serra's Barbera d'Alba, an excellent value at $10 to $12. More diffiult to find in my markets, this Franco Serra Nebbiolo Langhe costs only $2 to $3 more and is an even greater value.

Medium garnet with the orangish tints characteristic of Nebbiolo. The characteristic smells and flavors of Nebbiolo are also present. Flowers and tea on the nose Dark cherries, tobacco and black licorice on the palate. Full bodied (although only 13.5% alcohol) with asssertive tannins that fill the mouth and coat the tongue. Dry and savory. Delicious berry fruit on the finish. Suggestions of Barolo at a fraction of the price.
 

Tuesday, September 23, 2025

Tatiarra Cambrian Heathcote Shiraz, 2004

The Cambrian soil on which these grapes were grown is, according to the estate, more than 500,000,000 years old--presumably the oldest soil in the world. I am not sure that old soil matters as much as old vines in producing quality wine. Even so, this wine is special.

The cork crumbles even though it is completely dry and there is no sign of past leakage. Just a cheap cork, I decide, and this wine deserves better. Very deep and dark. Lush and luxurious. Black berries, very ripe plums and fig. A touch of tobacco on the finish. 15.5% alcohol, but the wine carries it well, perhaps because of higher than expected acidity. Old soil or not, Heathcote is capable of producing top quality Shiraz, and this is a delicious example.

Monday, September 22, 2025

E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone Blanc, 2023

 

I have been a fan of Guigal's red Cotes du Rhone for nearly 50 years.  I rarely buy the white Cotes du Rhone, though, and this bottle tells me I have been missing something.

Medium light color. From the first sniff, I start thinking "Viognier," and it is indeed 60% Viognier. Lovely aromatics, pink and white flowers, honey. Apricot flavors on the palate and medium body echoing well constructed blend of Roussanne, Marsanne, Clairette, Bourboulanc and Grenache Blanc. Elegance, freshness, strength and purity.

Thursday, September 18, 2025

Schlumberger Pinot Gris Reserve Speciale, 1983

1983 was a great year for wine lovers. The vintage was very good through most of France, and prices in the U.S when the wines reached the market.were low due to a favorable exchange rate and other factors. I bought a lot of Bordeaux and Sauternes, and nearly all are drinking beautifully today. For the Alsace wies I bought, the drink by date is long past, of course.. But this 1983 Pinot Gris from Schlumberger is offering pleasure tonight to one who appreciates old wines.

Very deep gold, similar to a Sauternes of comparable age. Still has fruit and spice flavors--apricot, nectarine, melon and clove. And the palate is rich and full. Smooth with no hard edges. Much drier than most Alsace wines on the market today, and that is a plus for me. Matches well with pork schnitzel.

Tuesday, September 16, 2025

Trader Joe's Reserve Lot #254 Rasteau, 2022

Like Vinsobres, Rasteau is very close to Vaison la Romaine--about 6 miles to the west as opposed to 6 miles to the north. So I opened this wine tonight so I could see the similarities, if any, between the two wines and their appellations. The Vinsobres is 52% Grenache, 48% Syrah. The Rasteau is 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Cinsault and 10% Mourvedre.

Medium ruby, very similar to the Vinsobres. Probably stainless steel and concrete. Classic Southern Rhone: fresh strawberries and red raspberries with peppery spice. More red fruit than the Vinsobres, more acidity, less alcohol (14.5% vs 15%) and more intense smells and flavors. Also has been in the bottle for an additional year. This is my kind of wine. Excellent value at $9.99.
 

Sunday, September 14, 2025

Trader Joe's Reseerve Lot #263 Vinsobres, 2023

 

My introduction to Vinsobres came several years ago at a small bistro in Vaison la Romaine in the Southern Rhone. It was incredibly inexpensive (about $1.50 a glass) and incredibly good. I learned that the Vinsobres appellation is just a few miles away from Vaison. This Trader Joe's Reserve is also inexpensvie ($9.99 a bottle) but not as good as the wine I had in Vaison nor in more expensive bottles I have  had since such as the Perrin family's Vinsobres Les Cornuds. But it is still worth the price.

Medium ruby, bright and clear. No sign of new oak aging. 52% Grenache, 48% Syrah, but has the upfront friendliness of wines with higher Grenache content. Fresh berries along with black pepper and licorice. Fruit flavors seem somewhat dilute compared to some of my Southern Rhone favorites, perhaps because of the relatively high alcohol (15%). . But the wine is drinking well right now, and I will buy more if I see it again on the shelves.

Wednesday, September 10, 2025

Chateau Tahbilk Goulburn Valley Victoria Cabernet Sauvignon, 1986

This Cabernet from Tahbilk has been in the bottle for nearly 40 years, and I expected it to taste like an antique. Not so. The wine is drinking beautifully, showing the graces rather than the defects that come from aging.

Bright and dark, some browning at the edges. Cabernet smells of bright cherry and currants. Savory salinity that brings out subtle nuances. Tobacco and minerals. Has been aged in French oak, but I don't detect any oak influence at this stage. Blends beautifully with the flavors of red wine braised beef.

The label states that acidity is 6.15 g/L with a pH of 3.60 and 12.5% ABV. That's much more acidic than most wines today. And that may well be the reason it tastes so delicious after 39 years in the bottle.
 

Monday, September 8, 2025

Villadoria Bricco Magno Nebbiolo Langhe, 2013

The estate makes clear on its webssite that this wine is made in a modern, international style. I tend to lean toward the traditional style of Nebbiolo, but I must say that I find no fault with this wine whatsoever.

Deep ruby with bricking near the rim. Cherries, roses, violets, black tea, vanilla and coffee. Full bodied. Good tension between acid, tannin and ripe fruit. Expresses the powerful rather than the elegant side of Nebbiolo. More like Barolo than Barbaresco. Multi-dimensional finish.
 

Saturday, September 6, 2025

Bava Piano Alto di Crena Nizza, 2014

At its best,  Barbera can be very good. And the best Barberas often come from Nizza, a commune in the Monferrato area of the Piedmont in Italy. Insiders have long known that the soil and climate there are perfectly suited to the growth of Barbera grapes, but it was not until 2014 that wine authorities granted Nizza special DOCG status. The Nizza designation on the label is now sufficient to identify the wine as Barbera of a high quality.And Bava's Piano Alto di Crena, from the estate's oldest and best sited vineyards, is one of the earliest and best examples of the new DOCG.

Medium ruby, lightening at the rim. Bright and clear. Enticing Barbera bouquet of fresh cherries and a touch of mint. Red and black currants, tobacco and pepper on the palate. Tannins are grippy but ripe and lovely. Characteristic Barbera acidity keeps it lively and in perfect balance. 

Thursday, September 4, 2025

Domaine Marcel Coutourier Saint Veran La Cour des Bois, 2018

Saint Veran is a Chardonnay from the Macon area of Southern Burgundy, very close to Pouilly Fuisse. This one from Marcel Coutourier matches precisely what I like about the appellation. It has depth, complexity and personality.

Deep gold color, substantially darker than the last bottle I had two years ago. Otherwise it has many of the same qualities but probably should be drunk soon. Pears, white flowers, toasted almonds and blood orange zest. Medium light body, light oak. Much better as it nears room temperature--a good sign for any white wine. Savory, saline notes on deep fruited finish.
 

Sunday, August 31, 2025

The Withers Winery Mr. Burgess Sierra Foothills, 2010

As a Europhile, I was dubious when I read that the Withers team intended, with this wine, to "pay homage to our heroes in Hermitage and Cornas" of the Northern Rhone. After tasting a bottle, I'm not sure I would trade any of my Domaine Thalabert (a Crozes-Hermitage) for it, but I do find it a very powerful and enjoyable New World Syrah. (Actually, it is 90% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre.) 

Deep and dark. Enchanting bouquet of black berries and currants, cassis and lavender. Beefy notes on the palate with a medium plus body (14.1%) and an exciting level of acidity--far more than I would expect in a New World Syrah. Tannins are no problem here as they might be with a 15-year-old Hermitage or Cornas and the deep-fruited finish is glorious. This 2010 is still available at the winery for $32.50, but I paid $15 at auction in early 2023. There were numerous bottles available at that time; wish I had bought more.

Friday, August 29, 2025

Domaine du Cayron Gigondas, 2004

There are many excellent producers of  Gigondas, an appellation in the Southern Rhone just south of Vacqueyras and north of Chateauneuf du Pape. But as far as I am concerned, Cayron is in a class by itself. I fondly remember Cayrons from 1980, 1981, 1983, 1985, 1986 and 1988, all of which aged very well over 15 to 20 years. The 2004 vintage was difficult for Cayron since some of the blossoms failed to turn into fruit (coulure), but this bottle is still giving pleasure 21 years after the vintage.

Medium ruby with significant bricking. Powerful scents of dark cherries, rosemary, pepper and cloves carrying over to classic Gigondas fruit with an uplifting chalky note on the mid-palate. Cayron power, charm and complexity. Long finish.
 

Thursday, August 28, 2025

Famiglia Cotarello Ferentano Bianco Lazio IGT, 2021

Made from Roscetto, an ancient grape grown only in the country side just north of Rome, this wine is not very well known, but that will certainly change if enough people get to taste it. It is a rare delight.

Deep yellow, bright and clear. Upfront smells and flavors of pear, melon, vanilla with some floral scents. Full bodied and rich, yet with brisk acidity. Now, as the wine airs and warms, the minerals start taking over. Salty, savory, mineral driven. Long, complex finish. 

I bought this from Wine Spies for $19. For that price, I would not hesitate to go back for more if it were available.
 

Tuesday, August 26, 2025

Careglio Roero DOCG, 2011

Although the grape is not mentioned on the label, Careglio Roero DOCG is 100% Nebbiolo and actually a notch up from the estate's Langhe Nebbiolo, which is produced from younger vines. 

Medium dark ruby red, shading to garnet. The wine has spent some time in new oak, but that certainly has not diminished its lovely Nebbiolo bouquet. Roses, violets, crushed berries and black tea. Tannins that are grippy but fine textured and countered by red cherry acidity. Long finish with substantial complexity.

Without Nebbiolo on the label, this wine apparently does not sell well in this country, and I have obtained several vintages of this wine on WineBid for $10 or $15 a bottle. They drink well at 8 to 10 years of age, but I suspect they will go even longer.

Saturday, August 23, 2025

Bernard Morey et Fils Clos Saint Jean Chassagne Montrachet Premier Cru, 2001

I don't buy much red Burgundy because, dollar for dollar, I get more pleasure from Pinot Noir wines from Oregon and the Anderson Valley of California. This is a red Chassagne I bought many years ago for about $15  at Village Corner in Ann Arbor, and it is showing very well 24 years after the vintage.

Very light with amber tones but bright and clear. A glorious fruit and flower bouquet that gets better and better with every swirl and every sniff. I could quit right now and be happy. Delicacy personified. Red raspberries, cherries, ripe and lovely. Tongue tingling acidity. Savory, peppery tones emerge on the long finish.


 

Wednesday, August 6, 2025

Domaine Arnaud Lambert Clos de Midi Breze Saumur Blanc, 2018

I love dry Chenin Blanc wines from the Loire. Those from Saumur are less expensive than those from Savennieres and this Clos de Midi Breze offers similar intensity and complexity to some of the best Savennieres.

Full gold. Rich and exciting smells and flavors that change and grow over the course of the meal. Peaches, pears, lemon peel and spice with a touch of honey. Has the body and texture you expect from a red wine. Grabs your attention and doesn't let go.
 

Chateau de Montmirail Cuvee de Beauchamp Gigondas, 2013

Beauchamp is usually 75% Grenache, but the Grenache crop was somewhat stunted in 2013 so this bottle may have more Syrah and Mourvedre than usual.

Medium ruby with amber tones. Expressive nose of berries, cherries, violets and aromatic herbs. Pleasantly warm (14%) on mid-palate. Ripe fruit balanced against fresh acidity. Very traditional. Just the way I like Gigondas.

Sunday, August 3, 2025

Bergadano Langhe Nebbiolo, 2008

This is the last of a 12-bottle case I bought for $120 in 2011 from Binny's of Chicago. The Nebbiolo grapes come from the same Monforte d'Alba plot that produces Bergadano's flagship Barolo but from vines lower on the hill on more fertile soil with higher yields.

Medium deep, orangish tones. The bouquet is a bit less vibrant than it was on our last bottle a couple of years ago. The wine was aged in French oak barriques. Flavors, though, are fresh and bright--cherries, black licorice, minerals and earth. Medium body with a good balance of fruit and acidity. Finish that gets longer and more satisfying as the meal progresses. 
 

Friday, August 1, 2025

Point Ormond Victoria (Australia) Shiraz, 2020

As far as I can tell, there is no Point Ormond winery. This wine was bottled by BMW of North Fitzroy, a suburb of Melbourne, from grapes grown in Australia, probably from a small vineyard in or near Heathcote in Victoria. The grapes are very fine indeed, but instead of lavishing them with extravagant French oak, the winemaker decided to let the prime produce speak for itself. The result is exactly what I am looking for in Shiraz--low oak, high acid, low alcohol (13.6%), low price and delicious fruit.

Deep and dark, no bluish or purplish tones. Inviting aromas of currants, dried herbs, bay leaf and eucalyptus. Coats the tongue with Shiraz flavors, supple and friendly. No reason not to enjoy this wine right now, and the price ($14.99) is reasonable enough that you can drink it often.
 

Thursday, July 31, 2025

Ledogar La Mariole Vieux Vignes Languedoc Roussillon, 2019

La Mariole is 100% Carignan from 100 year old vines in the Languedoc. I paid $13.99 from Garagiste--a very good buy.

Deep, dark violet ruby. Bold and spicy Carignan. Dark cherries, blue plums, aromatic herbs. Smoother and less rustic than I expected from old vine Carignan. Bright flavors pick up nuances on second night. Good wine and may get better with more time in cellar.
 

Sunday, July 27, 2025

Bieler Pere & Fils Sabine Aix en Provence Rose, 2023

Even compared to other areas in the south of France, Aix en Provence has the cool, high altitude vineyards to produce silky, elegant rose wines. This one from Bieler Pere & Fils is a classic. Grenache 50%, Syrah 20%, Cinsault 11%, Cabernet Sauvignon 10%, Rolle 5%,Ugni Blanc 2%, Clairette 2%

Beautiful light pink. Wild berries, flowers, white peaches, aromatic herbs. Silky and light on the palate with refreshing acidity.  Long, fruity finish.

Domaine Brunely Cairanne, 2018

Domaine Brunely is located in Vacqueyras but produces several cuvees of Gigonda as well as this Cairanne, probably from purchased grapes. This Cairanne is 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah plus Carignan and Cinsault.

Medium dark violet/ruby, slightly dull. Syrah black fruits on first night, Grenache red fruit emerges on second night. Spiced cherries and black raspberries. A bit hard on mid-palate, opening up a bit on second night. Good wine but doesn't measure up to my expectations of Cairanne established by the very fine wines of Domaine L'Oratoire Saint Martin.

 

Sunday, July 20, 2025

Schiavenza Barbera d'Alba, 2018

 

Grapes for this Barbera come from vines in Serraunga d'Alba and Monforte d'Alba, both very good areas for both Barbera and Barolo.

Bright ruby with amber at the edges. Looking mature at seven years of age and also showing maturity in its smells and flavors. All for the better. Dark cherries,  black licorice, pepper and aromatic spices. Good Barbera acidity. Pleasantly gritty tannins on mid-palate add texture and flavor interest. Drinking beautifully right now.

Thursday, July 17, 2025

Yalumba Rutherglen Antique Tawny

Yalumba's Rutherglen Tawny, at $27 a bottle, was, in my opinion, the top value of the National Tasting Project lineup. I am a long time fan of Taylor-Fladgate 10- and 20-year tawny, and I thought this antique tawny measured up quite well with the Taylor 10-year, which sells for $30 to $35.

Deep tawny color, clear and bright. Beautiful lifted tawny bouquet. Dried fruit, nuts, dates and exotic spices. Good viscosity and acid. Sweet, smooth and long. Eveybody at our table loved this wine, even those who are not regular port drinkers. I gave it 17.0/20.
 

Two Hands Sexy Beast McLaren Vale Cabernet Sauvignon, 2022

The Cabernet presented for our NTP was the Two Hands Sexy Beast, with a price tag of $46. It too showed well.

Very dark, opaque, purplish. Aromas are a bit muted at first but gradually open. Very ripe flavors--dark cherries, mint, spicy oak. Supple tannins, light acidity. Sweet, medium length finish. My score: 16.0