J.L. Chave Selection St. Joseph Offerus, 1998

I remember trying this 1998 St. Joseph soon after it was released. Brian, the owner of Bacchus Wines (now defunct), recommended it highly, and I agreed, buying another six bottles. Now, 25 years later, I am even more enamoured, even though it has changed immensely as a result of aging.

The color is much lighter, of course. Brickish red. The bouquet has less fresh fruit and more earthy, autumnal scents. Leaner on the mid-palate but with a tensile strength like a fine Pinot Noir. Savory, salty nuances that linger so beautifully. This is the magic that only comes with age and only with the few wines worth aging. Reminds me a lot of some of my favorite Domaine Thalabert (Paul Jaboulet Crozes Hermitage) wines from the 1980s.