Sunday, December 29, 2024

G.D. Vajra Langhe Rosso, 2020

If you have trouble getting used to the big tannic wines of Barolo and Barbaresco, this wine may give you an entry point. It gives you the beautiful aromas and flavors of these wines in a fresh, approachable, early drinking style. The estate calls it a "hug from Piedmont." And what a hug it is. Vajra's Langhe Rosso is a blend of Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto with small quantities of Albarossa, Freisa and Pinot Noir.

Bright ruby/violet color. Every bit as fresh and expressive as the Nizza Barbera (see below) plus riper, richer fruit. Red berries, plums, black pepper and Asian spices. Concentrated flavors. Already complex. At abouit $15 a bottle, this wine is always a good addition to your dinner table.
 

Trader Joe's Platinum Reserve Bersani Estate Nizza Lot 117, 2019

Nizza is to Barbera what Dogliano is to Dolcetto. Barbera grows very well in this Piedmont appellation in Monferrato, across the river from Barolo and Barbaresco. As a result, Barbera vines are planted on premium sites and soils and aged for a year or longer in barrels and at least six months in bottle before being released. This Nizza appeared recently in my local Trader Joe's and, after tasting, I quickly returned to buy half a case. As a Platinum Reserve selling for $14.99, it is a notch above most TJ wines but well worth the price.

Medium deep ruby/garnet. Intense smells and flavors. Cherries, red plums, spice. Barbera is generally high in acidity, low in tannin, and this is a perfect example. Fresh, lively fruit. Expressive and complex. May be the best Barbera I have had. I intend to keep Nizza Barbera on my shopping list.

 

Friday, December 27, 2024

Cascina delle Rose Dolcetto d'Alba A Elizabeth, 2018

For me, this is the ultimate every day drinking wine. I could drink it every night without getting tired of it. It is produced from two vineyards, one in the village of Barbaresco and one in the village of Neive nearby--both of which could be planted with the much more profitable Nebbiolo Barbaresco. It is, I believe, named after an American woman who frequently visits during picking season and loves this Dolcetto. It is aged in stainless steel and concrete.

Bright ruby, shading to garnet. Needs some aeration and swirling but opens up beautifully. Fresh cherries and violets--so direct but also suprisingly complex. Teases and pleases. Dolcetto fruit tannins are fine and supple, adding to the flavor profile rather than blocking it.
 

Thursday, December 26, 2024

Marcel Juge Cornas, 1994

This is a classic old-style Cornas at a perfect stage of maturity. As a Northern Rhone Syrah, Cornas is a bit more rustic than its siblings from Hermitage and Cote Rotie. I love the style.

Very light brick color, showing maturity. Lifted bouquet, more red than black fruit. Intense flavors of cherries, black olives, mushrooms, minerals. Special old vine fruit and traditional wine making. Reverberates on the tongue with flavors that seem to last forever.
 

Penfolds Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz, 2004

Penfolds has been making Bin 128 from Coonawarra fruit since 1962, and it has all the positive qualities of Coonawarra: up front black and red fruit and an approachable style from day one through 10 to 20 years. This is the last of my stash of 2004, and it is drinking well.

On a small pour, bricking is apparent around the edges but a full glass has a deep, dark color. Black fruit is dominant but red fruit tones are present around the edges. Full and rich on the mid-palate with a medium long finish.
 

Tuesday, December 24, 2024

Chateau d'Angludet Margaux, 1981

At our Christmas eve table, this 1981 d'Angludet had the unenviable task of following two excellent Cabernet-based wines: 1985 Sociando Mallet and 1978 Conn Creek Lot 1.
 Actually, it measured up quite well and may well have been my favorite.

Intense bouquet of fruit and flowers. Some, but not all at the table, detected some vegetable notes. Red as well as black fruits and cassis. Tart cherries on the long finish. This is clearly the most mature of the three wines on the table tonight, but it is showing very well for a wine from the mediocre 1981 vintage.

Conn Creek Napa Valley Cabernet Lot 1, 1978

Conn Creek was one of my early favorites when I first started getting interested in wine. It was one of the lowest priced Napa Cabernets at the time and is still a good value even though the vineyards are in a highly desired area north of Oakville. Now at age 46, this 1978 Lot 1 is showing amazing vitality, strength and beauty.

Dark color with minimal bricking considering the wine's age. Inrense bouquet with some of the minty, eucalyptis tones that were the hallmark of some of Mondavi's best Cabs of that era. Flavors are deep and well defined. Dark cherries, currants and cassis. Well balanced with acid and tannins that continue to give it longevity. Great wine.

 

Chateau Sociando Mallet Haut Medoc, 1985


Sociando Mallet was a great $12 bargain when I bought it in 1987, and it still ranks high among good value Bordeaux reds. In 1985, the blend was 60% Cabernet with about 20% Merlot plus Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc

Deep, dark color with some amber around the rim. Strong Cabernet fruit:: red and black currants, slightly earthy on the mid-palate. Acidity gives it freshnesss along the edges of the tongue and the medium long finish. May not improve from here but this 1985 has the fruit and structure to keep it going for at least another five years.

Monday, December 23, 2024

Chateau Grand Traverse Lot 49 Old Mission Peninsula Riesling, 2013

In a large tasting of Riesling wines from around the world, English wine critic Jancis Robinson chose this wine, from Old Mission Peninsula in Michigan, as one of  her favorites. It comes from a special single vineyard planted with Alsace clone #49. As the winery puts it: "There is so much fruit and substance in the late harvested grapes from this vineyard that we are willing to sacrifice a little of our Riesling’s youthful, up-front “fruitiness” in exchange for the palate texture and longevity that comes from ambient yeasts, long fermentations, and extended lees contact in German oak." 

I taste at the winery at least once every summer, and this nearly always ranks as my favorite- as well-a bit sweeter than the Wbole Cluster Riesling but with comparable texture and a bit more complexity. It is now known as Block 12 Riesling.

Medium deep gold. Compared to the Helfrich Pinot Gris beside it at the table, it is noticeably sweeter but also fresher and brighter. Ripe pears and apples. Rich texture on the mid-palate. It has aged well over 11 years and still offers up youthful Riesling fruit and the promise of greater complexity to come.
 

Famille Helfrich Alsace Pinot Gris, 2021

This was a good match for green pork stew--pork in a tomatillo sauce.

Medium deep straw. Apricots, ripe pears, lychee. Good counter to the spicy pork dish. Medium body, medium acidity, good balance. A bit sweet but with a noticeably dry edge and finish. This has the traits that I prefer in a Pinot Gris.

 

Chateau Bel-Air Saint Croix du Mont, 1986

Saint Croix du Mont is a satellite appellation of Sauternes producing dessert wines that are similar in style and personality to Sauternes but usually lower in price. I believe I paid $36 a case for this wine back in 1988 and am still reaping the benefits.

Deep gold, holds it bright color even on the second night. Apricots, honey, blood orange and  orange zest. Holding up better than many Sauternes of comparable age. Smooth and pleasantly sweet with ample acidity to keep it fresh around the edges. Better on the second night than the first.
 

Sunday, December 22, 2024

Emilio Lustau East India Solera Sherry, NV

The price tag on the bottle (I bought it in 2018) reads $9.99, but the pleasures of smell and taste it conjures up in me reads $99.99 or more. This wine exemplifies the solera system in which a barrel that was started decades ago is refreshed regularly with new juice as small quantities of the old wine are removed. Considering the complexity of this bottle, the average age in the solera must be very, very old.

Light amber color. Powerful and complex. Figs, roasted nuts, brown sugar, citrus zest, toffee and much, much more. Sweet and satisfying but not at all cloying. Finishes with complex flavors that continue to resonate for several minutes.
 

Saturday, December 21, 2024

Mildara Barossa Valley Cabernet Shiraz, 2021

 

Mildara's winery is in Coonawarra but grapes for this wine were grown in Barossa. It is 73% Cabernet, 27% Shiraz and is available at my local Trader Joe's for $5.99--a good value.

Deep and dark color. Cabernet is clearly dominant--black currants, blackberries, a hint of cassis.. Shiraz fills the mid-palate, adds body, weight and some chocolate flavors. Tannins are somewhat soft and countered by acidity that keeps it fresh. A good every day wine; I will go back for more.

Thursday, December 19, 2024

McManis Family Vineyards Lodi Pinot Noir, 2022

 

This is an inexpensive ($12) Pinot Noir from Lodi, an area better known for Zinfandel and Petite Sirah than Pinot Noir. Yet it is a thoroughly delicious wine with loads of Pinot personality.

Medium light purple. Beautiful aromas of red berries, cherries, flowers and spice. Silky Pinot texture wirh medium plus acidity. Intense flavors of strawberries, raspberries, orange zest. Long, complex finish.

Wednesday, December 18, 2024

Paul Jaboulet Crozes-Hermitage Domaine Thalabert, 1985

In more than 40 years of buying and drinking wine, this is the strangest thing that I have ever encountered. This bottle was one of at least a case of 1985 Thalabert I bought in 1987 or 1988, and it has been lying flat in my cellar since that time. Recently, I moved it to a lower shelf where the front of the bottle was tilted more toward the floor.  As a result, the bottle started leaking to the point that the ullage was even below the shoulder. It clearly had to be opened and consumed. When I removed the top of the capsule, however, and prepared to remove the cork, I found no cork to remove. No cork! The capsule had never been removed, and the cork had not fallen into the bottle. Apparently, this was a bottle that had somehow gone through the line without a cork and with only a capsule to seal the bottle. That must mean a totally dead bottle, I thought. But no! The wine that I poured was very dark and showed no visible signs of oxidation. In fact, it was drinkable, although nowhere near the quality of the last bottle I had from this vintage.

Very dark, considerable free floating sediment but no crust on the side of the bottle. Very little, if any, bouquet but flavors are what you would expect from an 8-12-year-old Crozes. Dark fruit and tannin. Has not benefited from the etherial qualities that occur in Thalabert with extended aging but reminds me of the bottles I had of this wine in the early 1990s.The bottle has apparently been sealed pretty well by the capsule but without a cork for extra protection or whatever other benefits a cork may provide in terms of aging. Is this what I might expect from a 40 year old screwtop bottle?
 

Friday, December 13, 2024

Trader Joe's Reserve Rasteau Lot #254, 2022

Rasteau is very good Cotes du Rhone Villages appellation, and Trader Joe's price ($9.99) is less than half what you might pay elsewhere for a Rasteau of this quality.

Bright, medium deep ruby. Looks and smells like a traditionally made Rasteau. Cherry, black raspberries and a black licorice streak that is typical of wines from this CDR Villages. Medium body. A bit bold and tannic in its youth, but I'm sure the red and black berry charm will blossom in a year or two. I bought a stash and will be drinking some now and some later. For my taste, this is one of the best values on the TJ shelves.
 

Saturday, December 7, 2024

Paolo Scavino Langhe Nebbiolo, 2017

Some on Cellar Tracker dubbed this as a wine for early drinking. But this bottle was clearly better on the second night, which needs me to think that it may have at least a year or two of development to come.

Medium deep ruby with some Nebbiolo orangeish tones. Nebbiolo nose of dark cherries, rose petals and a hint of cloves--more forthcoming on the second night. Still some firm tannins even on the second night and plenty of acidity. At this stage, it lacks a little ripeness and complexity.
 

Thursday, December 5, 2024

Paul Jaboulet Crozes-Hermitage Domaine Thalabert, 1988

 

During the 1980s, I bought at least a case of Domaine Thalabert every vintage and consumed most bottles as delicious week night choices.. Fortunately, I stashed a few away in the cellar, and know now that they are some of the best Syrah wines I have ever had, ranking with more prestigious and expensive Hermitage labels.This 1988 is a prime example.

The color has lightened a bit around the rim but still a deep, bright ruby. Tbe cork was soaked and had leaked a bit after 37 years, but the wine was intact. Classic Thalabert personality. Black and red currants, cassis, black olives, leather and a hint of citrus peel. Enough acidity to produce intense, dancing flavors. And enough tannin to frame those flavors. A powerful wine. Reminds me of the 1983, which was still drinking beautifully at this time last year.

Wednesday, December 4, 2024

Saltram S2 Southeast Australia Shiraz, 2019

This seemed like the ultimate Aussie Shiraz bargain when I spotted it at Trader Joes for $3.99. The story was that large quantities of this wine were headed to China but cut off by trade restrictions. Trader Joe's bought the lot at a bargain. I appreciated the price but have not been so happy with the product.

Medium dark ruby. Very short cork--the first ominous sign. Forward fruit, blackberries and plums, but the fruit is from Southeast Australia and clearly not from high quality vineyards..Not much concentration or depth of flavor. Medium tannin but not enough acidity to give flavor interest. 

Saltram has a high reputation in Australia, but I don't find this to be one of their best efforts.
 

Saturday, November 30, 2024

Ca Rome di Romano Marengo Barbaresco, 1999

 

This is the third bottle of this 1999 Barbaresco we have had over the past five years, and this one is just as superb as the other two, perhaps a bit better.

Medium dark with the orangeish tones around the rim that are typical of traditionally made Nebbiolo. Deep and concentrated smells and flavors oriented toward dark cherry, leather and earth. Plenty of tannins but they are ripe and subtle. Ripe fruit and dry tannins competing for attention. Black licorice and cherries on the finish. Good when first opened but is really singing by the end of the meal. 

Friday, November 29, 2024

Ramon Bilbao Rioja Reserva Monte Seco, 1980

In contrast to the 2001 Lopez de Heredia (see below), this wine has served its time in the cellar. Although the cork was firm, it had been saturated and had signs of past leakage. The label was nearly gone, although the $4.76 price tag was intact. I did not expect much but got a lot.

Significant browning as to be expected from a 44-year-old wine. The bouquet is heavenly, even better than that of the Lopez de Heredia.Red fruits, leather and that lovely uplifting Rioja spice. Old barrel American oak vanilla with a touch of dill. Acidity has carried this wine and still keeping it intact. Not quite as deep or concentrated at the Lopez de Heredia but close. A finish that lingers in memory long after the meal is over.
 

R. Lopez de Heredia Rioja Reserva Vina Tondonia, 2001

This 2001 Rioja is not from my long-term cellar; it was a Christmas gift from my daughter last year, and, even though is 23 years old, it has clearly had superb provenance. The capsule, cork and label are what you would expect from a recent vintage. And the wine itself is youthful and fresh considering the vintage date.

Deep ruby with bright tones. Mostly red fruit bouquet, deep and concentrated. Strawberries, black raspberries. Medium body, bright acidity. Has that special Rioja spicy uplift. Intense finish that lingers with subtle nuances that come from aging.
 

Monday, November 25, 2024

Couloir Londer Vineyard Anderson Valley, Pinot Noir, 2010

Everyone at the table preferred this Couloir over the Patz & Hall Pinot Noir, even though it retails for about half the price. Of course, it has the benefit of five more years in the ottle plus the cooler, northern climate of Anderson Valley.

Deep,saturated ruby color. Lighter than the Patz & Hall. Intense smells and flavors: fresh red and black berries.  Silky smooth texture.The structure clearly leans more toward acid than tannin. Exciting flavors that dance on the tongue. A wine that is almost impossible to resist.. This is my seond Couloir wine in a week--a Roma's Vineyard and a Londer Vineyard. Very different wines but both excellent.
 

Patz & Hall Hyde Vineyard Carneros Pinot Noir, 2015

This Hyde Vineyard Pinot Noir from Patz & Hall is considered one of the prime examples of Carneros Pinot, selling for about $91 a bottle. We drank it tonight alongside the 2010 Couloir Londer Vineyard Pinot from the Anderson Valley. Both were excellent.

Dark and deep, much darker than I would expect from Pinot Noir. Also much darker and more tannic smells and flavors. Entrancing bouquet, fruits and flowers. Keeps me going back for sniff after sniff. Dark cherry, pomegranate and spice. More tannin than I expected but it doesn't keep the lovely fruit flavors from shining through. Lots of fruit, lots of complexity on the finish.

 

Thursday, November 21, 2024

Catena Mendoza Argentina Chardonnay, 2022

I have to admit that this is my introduction to Argentinan Chardonnay. I am impressed and will be back.

Deep yellow color. Has been matured in first, second and third use barrels with partial malolactic fermentation. Aromas of white flowers, bay leaves, ripe pears and apricots. Merdium bodied with medium acidity. Broad flavors of pears, apricots, grains and nuts. A distinctive wine with its own personality.

Grapes are sourced from four historic high altitude vineyards in the foothills of the Andes. The wine sells for about $20 a bottle.
 

Tuesday, November 19, 2024

2016 Mud House Central Otago (New Zealand) Pinot Noir, 2016

 

An early review in Wine Enthusiast found this Central Otago Pinot Noir to be a bit too oaky. After a few years in the cellar, the oak impression is less obvious to me and the fruit flavors come through nicely.

Medium deep ruby. The bouquet (perhaps oak influenced) is lovely at this point. Flowers, fruit, spice. Red raspberry shading to cranberry on the palate. Also some citrus zest. Central Otago is squarely in the middle of the Southern Alps with high altitude and cool climate so the wine has ample acidity. For $13 a few yeares ago, this was an excellent value for a Central Otago Pinot.

Chateau Grand Traverse Gamay Noir, 2017

When tasting both the Pinor Noir and Gamay Noir at the winery every year, I always prefer the Gamay and remark that it tastes more like Pinot Noir than Gamay. The person doing the pouring nearly always agrees with me. With this 2017, after a few years in the bottle the comparison with Pinot is less obvious, but this still ranks as my favorite Michigan red.

Medium dark color. Similar to that of the New Zealand Pinot beside it at the table. Intense smells and flavors of red raspberry and tart cherry. Sweet fruit framed by lots of black pepper. Reminds me of a good Southern Rhone, and I like that.
 

Sunday, November 17, 2024

Couloir Roma's Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir, 2007

Like the Etna Rosso (below), this is a wine I bought in quantity more than a decade ago and have enjoyed again and again with increasing pleasure. It is probably my all-time favorite Anderson Valley Pinot Noir.

Medium light ruby, shading to amber at the rim.All four of us at the table are immediately drawn to the intense bouquet. Berries galore: red raspberries, fresh and ripe. Cherries too with a fine acidic edge. Silky texture and flavors that come at the tongue from all directions. Both sweet and savory. Beautiful finish, beautiful wine. Even after the excellent Etna Rosso, all four of us chose this Pinot Noir as the wine of the night.
 

Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso, 2008

I bought a case of this Etna Rosso 13 years ago from D&W Market in Kalamazoo on the recommendation of Penny Ross and Roz Mayberry. The next to last bottle, this is clearly the best so far. 

I have always thought of this wine as similar to a fine Pinot Noir, and tonight, drinking it alongside a very good Anderson Valley Pinot, the comparison is spot on. Looks like a Pinot, although maybe a tad darker. Smells like a Pinot with complex tones of flowers, fruit and spice. And it has that lovely texture of Pinot, fine grained and silky smooth. Cherries, spice and minerals, fully developed. Long, deep and complex finish. I am ready for the next case.
 

Thursday, November 14, 2024

Amalie Robert Heirloom Cameo Willamette Valley Chardonnay, 2011

We had several bottles of the 2011 Amalie Robert Her Silhouette Chardonnay, a wine produced with no oak  or malolactic fermentation. This Heirloom Cameo takes the opposite approiach. It was fermented and aged in French oak puncheons, given full malolactic fermentation and spent considerable time resting on its spent yeast cells. Nevertheless, the Dijon clones and the Willamette Valley terroir has kept it fresh and silky as well as luxurious 13 years after the vintage.

Medium deep yellow. A wide range of smells and flavors: white flowers, lemon zest, pineapple, cilantro, almonds. Leesy acidity, silky texture and a long, rich finish.
 

Sunday, November 10, 2024

Domaine de Couron Cotes du Rhone, 2020

60% Grenache, 40% Grenache from vines averaging 47 years 45 miles northwest of Avignon.

Darker ruby than a traditional Cotes du Rhone. Also bigger and more tannic. Perhaps some oak, but maybe that's because of the relatively high proportion of Syrah in the blend. Dark cherries and blueberries. Somewhat rough on the mid-palate but a pleasing level of acidity and intensity on the finish. Not the traditional Cotes du Rhone style I loved during the 1980s and 1990s but a good wine that I would buy at $10 to $12 a bottle.
 

Friday, November 8, 2024

Bouchard Aine & Fils Heritage du Conseiller Chardonnay, 2022

We have enjoyed some delicious bottles of Bouchard Pouilly Fuisse, and I was delighted to spot this bottle with the majestic Bouchard label on the shelf at Costco for only $11. The Pouilly Fuisse, of course, sells for more than twice that price. This Heritage du Conseiller, however, is not Pouilly Fuisse; nor is it even from the Maconnais. It is a humble Vin de France, meaning that the grapes can come from anywhere in France. They were, though, apparently well chosen and well handled.

Medium deep yellow. Fresh scents of flowers and fruit. Bright flavors of lime, peach and yellow apple. Medium to light bodied with more acidity and lesss sweetness than a New World Chardonnay. For $11 to $15, this is an excellent every day choice. And if you see Bouchard's Pouilly Fuisse for a comparable price, please let me know.
 

Wednesday, November 6, 2024

Domaine de la Seminaire Cotes du Rhone Villages Valreas, 2019

80% Grenache from vines planted in the 1940s, 10% Syrah from vines planted in the 1960s, 10% Mourvedre from vines planted in the 1970s--all on clay/limestone soils. This is a beautiful Cotes du Rhone Villages, probably the best Valreas I have had.

Medium deep crimson. Violets and fresh fruit aromas. Black fruit at first on the palate with some tannin that is not at all unpleasant. Then the red berry Grenache emerges on the mid-palate, teasing and pleasing, and opening up a range of flavors. Velvety texture with perfect acid/tannin balance. The finish, though, is what makes this wine special. It lingers beautifully long after the glass is empty, washed and put away.


 

Sunday, November 3, 2024

Penfolds Koonunga Hill Shiraz-Cabernet, 2020

The fruit for this wine does not come from the Koonunga Hill Vineyard that produced the now famous 1976 Koonunga Hill Claret that was one of my introductions to Australian wine. But it is made in the style of that wine.

Very deep and dark crimson. Red and black fruit, plums and cherries more than berries. Also some beet root and sweet oak. Full bodied Shiraz in the middle; leafy Cabernet around the edges. Smoother on the palate than the last bottle we had a few months ago. Not much complexity at this point.

This wine and the Point Ormond wine we had last night are similarly priced. I far prefer the Point Ormond.
 

Saturday, November 2, 2024

Point Ormond Victoria (Australia) Shiraz, 2020

Point Ormond Lookout is located in Elwood, a suburb of Melbourne, Australia. Point Ormond wines are bottled in Fitzroy, an inner suburb of Melbourne. It is apparently a garagiste wine, produced by someone who is clearly knowledgeable about viticulture and winemaking. At least some of the grapes (although apparently not enough to qualify for the sub-appellation) come from Heathcote, an area well known for producing excellent (and usually expensive) Shiraz wines. This excellent Point Ormond Shiraz sells for $14.99 at Plum Market on the eastern side of Michigan and for $15.99 at Wine.com. It is a smashing bargain.

Deep and dark. Classic Syrah scents and flavors: blackberries, boysenberries, lavender, anise seed and black pepper. Much more acidic than your typical Aussie Shiraz and moderate in alcohol (13.5%). Not at all sweet. Matured in concrete vats and stainless steel (no oak). In its fourth year, Point Ormpond Shiraz is already drinking beautifully, but I am sure it will age beautifully over the next five years or so.
 

Wednesday, October 30, 2024

Domaine du Cayron Gigondas, 1985

Domaine du Cayron and I have a long history, going back to the 1980 vintage. This 1985, now 39 years old, is a testament to why I consider it the standard bearer for Gigondas.

Deep garnet with some bricking at the edges. In a full glass, though, the color is dark, almost opaque. At least in 1985, no new oak was used in the wine's maturation so the color is a sign of the wine's concentration.70% Grenache, 15% Syrah plus old vine Cinsault and a small quantity of Mourvedre. Intense boutique of cherries, red and black berries, violets and aromatic Provencal herbs. Ripe, succulent flavors of strawberries, raspberries, plums. Medium to low acidity and tannins have faded away leaving a luscious mouthful of concentrated mixed berry fruit. Impossible to resist. Some complex savory notes develop on the finish as the wine warms and aerates. 39 years after the vintage, this wine is as lovely as ever.

Sunday, October 27, 2024

Pierre-Bise Clos de Coulaine Savennieres, 2000

I bought several bottles of this (and other vintages) of Clos du Coulaine more than 20 years ago for an attractive price (about $10 a bottle). Consumed 10 to 12 years after the vintage date, these wines were disappointing, bitter and almost hard to drink. As the last remaining bottle, 20 years after the vintage, this Savennieres has finally turned the corner and is drinking beautifully. I suspect this may be because the bitterness on the finish (probably botrytis-derived) has evolved and blended nicely into the other Chenin Blanc flavors.

Deep golden yellow. Canteloupe melon, honey, flowers and limestone minerals. Broad flavors but plenty of acidity. Works beautifully with the flavors and texture of grilled acorn squash. This has what I love about Savennieres. It is a sometimes cranky wine, and I wish I had been more patient with the bottles I consumed before their time.
 

Chateau Haut Tornezy Bordeaux, 2019

This lower level appellation Bordeaux is a throwback to the good value wines I bought in the early 1980s. At that time, it would have been cost $3; now it is still a great quality for price at $11. 65% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet France and 5% Malbec.

Medium deep ruby. Laid back scents and flavors of red and black currants. Pure fruit, not much oak but authentic Bordeaux profile. Flows smoothly across the tongue. Acidity keeps it fresh and lively now and will also allow it to age gracefully over the next few years.

 

Friday, October 25, 2024

Domaine Drouhin Dundee Hills Pinot Noir, 2014

Donmaine Drouhin claims for this wine "French soul, Oregon soil." My impression finds more French than Oregon Pinot traits. And I must admit that, based on my limited experience with both appelations, I tend to prefer the Oregon.

Medium deep, bright ruby red. Retaining its color well 10 years after the vintage. Cherries, flowers, cinnamon and other baking spices. Sweeter and richer with none of the citrus zest that provides complexity in many Willamette Valley Pinots. Medium body, smooth texture. Fresh acidity and supple tannins. I suspect the finish will become more complex with another year or two in the cellar.
 

Thursday, October 24, 2024

Olarra Clasico Rioja Grand Reserva, 2016

This has faint resemblance to the Rioja Gran Reservas I enjoyed with great pleasure in the 1970s and early 1980s. But it is a good wine in its own right and well worth the $12.99 I paid for it at Costco.

Deep and dark with almost purple tones. Ripe red and black raspberries and coffee oak. Also some mature notes of leather and raisins in the bouquet. Gran Reservas that I remember from the 1970s spent several years in old American oak barrels that gave them strong smells and flavors of vanilla and dried dill. This wine, I suspect. has been matured, at least in part, in new French oak barrels that have imparted a more modern, international profile. Ripe red and black fruit on a long and elegant finish

Sunday, October 20, 2024

Maison L'Envoye Straight Shooter Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, 2022

Grapes for this Straight Shooter Pinot Noir come from the sub-AVAs of Eola-Amity Hills and McMinnville. Sedimentary and volcanic soils. About 20% whole clusters used in the fermentation.

Medium violet red. Cherries, cranberries, forest floor and spice. Blood orange and zest on the finish. Drinking well now with good acidity and silky tannins. should develop complexity and finesse with some aging.. 

At $20 to $25 a bottle, Straight Shooter is a moderately priced Willamette Valley Pinot Noir and an excellent value.
 

Thursday, October 17, 2024

TuaTea Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc, 2023

When I first tasted TuaTea Sauvignon Blanc five years ago, I pegged it as a personal favorite, a notch above other New Zealand Sauvignons on the market. And it still sells for $5.99 at Trader  Joe's. Why have I neglected it for so long?

Light color even for a young Sauvignon Blanc. Grapefruit, a touch of passion fruit, lemon zest and freshly cut grass. Elegant on the mid-palate with a long clean finish. A pleasant touch of salinity on the finish. As I have said before: cheap at twice the price.
 

Tuesday, October 15, 2024

Pertinace Barbera d'Alba, 2019

Usually available at an every day price, Pertinace's Barbera d'Alba meets all of my requirements for an every day wine, a good match for pizza or pasta dishes.

Bright, medium light ruby. Dark cherries, berries, plums and spice. Medium bodied with moderate tannins and the Barbera acidity to please the palate. By the end of the meal, the finish has become very mellow and friendly, inviting sip after sip.
 

Wednesday, October 9, 2024

Phillips Hill Oppenlander Mendocino Pinot Noir, 2007

Oppenlander Vineyard on the Comptche Ridge in Mendocino County is a special place for growing Pinot Noir, and this 2007 from Phillips Hill is a prime example.

Bright ruby, darker than most Oppenlanders I have seen and tasted. This 2007 is particularly rich but still has the complexity and finesse that I espect from Oppenlander. Red berries with wild fruit intensity, minerals and a touch of cinnamon. Ripe fruit on mid palate and finish. Bright, fresh and acidic...even at age 17. Hard to quit sniffing and sipping.
 

Monday, October 7, 2024

Sandrone Nebbiolo d'Alba Valmaggiore, 2019

I have written previously about the good value Nebbiolo wines from Roero, located on the other side of the Tanaro River and only a few miles from the more highly regarded and expensive vineyards of Barolo and Barbaresco. The Valmaggiore vineyard is in Roero, but wines from this micro-climare are highly prized and often sell in a price range more typical of Barolo and Barbaresco. Luciano Sandrone is among the winemakers who have recognized the special qualities of Valmaggiore Nebbiolo and  promoted it as a distinct interpretation of the grape.

Medium deep with some orangeish Nebbiolo tints. Rose petals, red berries, sea salt and more subtle savory qualities. Ripe and lovely. Surprisingly accessible for its age but has serious depth and concentration with a glorious finish. Some say Valmaggiore drinks best 6 to 12 years after the vintage but will certainly keep and improve for much longer. Now at 5 years, this 2019 Valmaggiore is drinking beautifully, one of the best wines I have had this year. I am looking foward to following its evolution over the next decade.

Sunday, October 6, 2024

Broadsides Vineyard Ferment Central Coast Chardonnay, 2022

This Chardonnay was sourced from vineyards in Edna Valley on California's Central Coast.

Medium deep gold. Captivating scents of nectarines, pears, minerals and honey. Matured in both American and French oak but does not come across as oaky. Medium bodied, medium plus acidity, distinctive flavors, clean finish. Excellent value for $15 to $20.

Tuesday, October 1, 2024

Domaine Brunely Cotes du Rhone Villages Cairanne, 2018

The Domaine Brunely estate is located on the Sarrians hills between the Rhone and Ventoux. Although most of the vines are in the Vacqueyras appellation, the estate has added vineyards in Cairanne, Ventoux, Gigondas and Chateauneuf du Pape. This 2018 Cairanne is still young but beginning to open up and display its charms.

Dark violet color. Black and red raspberries, spices and minerals. Firm still on the mid-palate but fruit peeking through nicely. 50% Grenache plus Syrah, Carignan and Cinsault. Energetic finish. Has room to grow.
 

Saturday, September 28, 2024

Domaine du Haut des Terres Blanches Chateauneuf du Pape, 1994

It has been several years since I have had this old favorite Chateauneuf du Pape, and I assumed it had gone over the hill. No chance. It is showing at least as strong as any of the bottles we have had over the past two decades and showing no sign of decline. Unfortunately, though, it is my last bottle.

Medium deep with some bricking. Unmistakeable nose of mature Chateauneuf, bright and fresh. Grenache red berries, fresh and dried, countered against savory notes of sea salt, minerals, spice and peppercorn. Lovely ripeness carried by mouth watering acidity from front to back. Beautiful finish with layers of ripe flavor. This is what Chateauneuf is all about. A perfect match for grilled rack of lamb. 
 

Friday, September 27, 2024

Domaine du Pelican Arbois Trois Cepages, 2014

The three grapes comprising the cepage in this Jura red are Pinot Noir, Trousseau and Poulsard. It is a light red with the qualities of good Pinot Noir grown in a cool--very cool--climate. I liked it but acknowledge it is a bit too tart for many tasters.

Very light red color, like looking through rose-colored glasses. Pretty aromas focused more on fruit that floral traits. Nothing ripe in the smells or flavors. Cranberry, sour cherries, lemon zest. The citrus zest reminds me of some Oregon Pinots, but this lacks the ripe fruit flavors that provide balance in those wines. An interesting wine with good depth of fruit but definitely on the tart side.

Monday, September 23, 2024

Barton Vale The Changeling Eden Valley Barossa Shiraz, 2001

 

Eden Valley is an elevated cool climate area of Barossa that produces some of 
Australia's best Shiraz wines, including those of Stephen and Pru Henschke (Hill of Grace, Mount Edelstone). Eden Valley is always on my radar, and that's why this wine caught my attention...and my winning bid.

Medium deep ruby. Black fruits evolving to red: blackberries, red currants, boysenberries, pomegranates. Beautiful strructure with acidity that keeps me coming back for sip after sip of that deep, concentrated fruit. Tannins have softened. Long, evolving finish. A special wine for a special occasion. A perfect match for rack of lamb.