J.M. Perraud Saint Veran, 2014

 The last bottle of this wine I opened was a bit of a disappointment--tightly wound with a lot of citric acidity but not much else. This time, I was a bit tardy bringing the bottle up from the cellar, and it had not become completely chilled by the time I opened and served it. Voila! The transformation was remarkable.

Medium deep gold. Ripe apples in butter, spring flowers, spice and maybe a hint of walnut. Broad and deep. Very much like a six-year-old Pouilly Fuisse. Sleek acidity but also ripe multi-faceted fruit and a pleasing body.

It's a lesson I should have known. Don't overchill a good wine; you are likely to lose a good part of the fruit and flavor.