Saturday, August 2, 2014

Domaine de Font-Sane Gigondas, 1998

A few years ago, this wine was so tight and stingy that it was difficult to drink. I thought it had lost all of its fruit. But what it needed was patience. Now, it is drinking beautifully, and it will probably stay at that plateau for at least a year or two.

Deep ruby, some browning. Dark cherries, berries and herbs. Gigondas power and grace. Peppery elements are emerging that I did not notice on the previous bottle a year or so ago. Keeps getting better with aeration. Ripe finish. 14.5% alcohol but carries it well; neither hot nor unbalanced.

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