As good as the 1998 Fortia Chateauneuf is, this 1991 Domaine Thalabert Crozes is even better. I would say that it is drinking at its peak right now, but I've been wrong before about Domaine Thalabert. These Crozes never seem to stop going and growing.
The 1991 is a medium deep color with hints of amber forming. As is typical of Domaine Thalabert, the bouquet features black currants and berries with deep undertones of spices, herbs and leather. Green olive tones are beginning to emerge--a very attractive side of Syrah, in my opinion. Again typical of Thalabert, there is nothing in this wine that jumps out at you to say, "look at me." Not a show wine. Just keep drinking and paying attention and you will be rewarded with layer after layer of concentrated smells and flavors. Dances all the way down the tongue, leaving an impression that lasts and lasts. This is a very fine wine.
The 1990 Domaine Thalabert is the one that gets all the attention, and I'm sure it has probably lived up to its Parker hype. I haven't tried it yet but will soon. Until then, though, I am perfectly happy with this 1991. It's much better, for my taste, than the more heavily oaked 1989 and is probably on a par with the excellent 1988.