Domaine le Couroulu Vacqueyras, 1998

Now this is what Vacqueyras is all about! It's five years older than the 2003 Monardiere but much, much more vigorous and youthful--probably at its peak now but capable of giving pleasure for several more years.

Deep, deep crimson--the color has turned but there is no sign of amber or rust. No need to coax a bouquet from this wine; it's very aromatic--raspberries, blueberries, flowers, peppery spice and Vacqueyras minerals. On the palate, there is nice raspberry acidity at the front followed by characteristic black licorice and dark minerals. Flavors fill out on the mid-palate with ripe berried fruit and spice. Good old-fashioned Vacqueyras made by an artisan. Reminds me of the excellent wines made by this estate in 1985 and 1986.

I paid $9.98 for this bottle 20 years ago. Southern Rhone prices have escalated dramatically since that time, but the current vintage of Couroulu is available in most areas for $16 to $20.