At least until recent reports of prematurely oxidized wines, white Burgundies have always had a good reputation for aging, and this wine provides a good example. The strong Chardonnay fruit has become burnished after 15 years and the deep gold color confirms that some oxidation has taken place. But the result is ever more complexity and enjoyment. I've been drinking this wine for many years now, and while this bottle might be a slight comedown from the last bottle I enjoyed in December of 2007, it is no slouch. It offers up a full range of smells and flavors--peach, green apple, minerals, hazelnuts. The slight note of oxidation adds richness rather than staleness and seems to open up the ripe flavors on the palate. Creamy smooth.
Saint Aubin is, in my opinion, one of the best values in white Burgundy, and this Olivier Leflaive offering ranks near the top.