Chateau Graville Lacoste Graves Blanc, 2002

When I bought this wine some years ago, my idea was: drink some now, save the rest for later. In its youth, this was a classy, complex white Graves. It's a very different wine today but still a classy, complex white Graves and a perfect match for a rich shrimp or seafood dish.

Since Graville Lacoste comes in a clear bottle, it's possible to follow one sign of its maturity without even pulling the cork. It's a deep, mature color, but the smells and flavors indicate that it's by no means over the hill. The aromas are relatively restrained at first but then get gradually more intense--mint, melon, citrus and minerals. The blend is 80% Semillon, 15% Sauvignon Blanc and 5% Muscadelle from old vines. Right now, the Sauvignon is probably more apparent than it was in past years, but the Semillon still dominates, giving a rich, full-bodied texture and complex smells and flavors. The body is what you might expect from a fine Chardonnay, but the finish is crisp with a citric edge. This wine grows with every sip; it has an incredibly full range of flavors.

I believe I paid $12 for this bottle; the current vintage sells for about $20--a bit rich for my pocketbook but certainly worth it in terms of quality and class.