This note is from last August, but I thought it was an appropriate followup to the 1995 Jean Descombes Morgon. This is the lowest level wine in the portfolio of the famed Maison Leroy, often labeled "best of the best" in Burgundy by wine critics. I paid only about $12 for this wine on futures in the early 1990s, but the current vintage of Bourgogne Leroy sells for $40 to $50. It is, of course, Pinot Noir from the Cotes de Nuit while Jean Descombes is Gamay from Morgon in Beaujolais.
The 1990 Bourgogne is a medium deep garnet with prominent amber tones. The bouquet is beautiful with ripe luxuriant fruit--dark cherries and pomegranates--and also some volatility. The palate shows the same with more noticeable volatility around the edges. It is a very enjoyable wine beginning to show its age a bit more than the 1995 Morgon but comparable in most other respects--classy with strength, subtlty, charm...and no need to show off.