I drank a lot of Vieux Telegraphe back in the days when it was one of only three or four Chateauneufs widely available in the United States. And I wasn't terribly impressed with vintages of the 1980s when they were 10 to 15 years of age. These bottles were wasted, I now believe, opened way too early. Produced from high quality old vineyards, Vieux Telegraphe ages about as well as any wine from this appellation. And this 1988 is showing beautifully right now.
Medium to light ruby. Scents of dried and fresh red berries, flowers, herbs and white pepper. Not as noticeably aromatic as the Pio Cesare Barolo beside it on the table but equally deep and complex. I find it hard to quit sniffing. The palate is even more expressive. Ripe fruit fills the mouth, then flares into a peacock's tail of flavors. Another great wine.