When I buy French Champagne, I always go for the non-vintage. It's the least expensive bottling, of course, but it's also made for year-to-year consistency. There is a certain rich, toasty Pinot Noir quality in Louis Roederer's Brut Premier that I love, and Larry Mawby seems to have captured some of it in his multi-vintage Brut Tradition. In a flight I tasted earlier this week at the winery, I preferred it to both the Blanc de Blancs and the Grace (Pinot Noir Rose).
There is some apple-like Chardonnay in the Brut Tradition, but the ripe Pinot Noir smells and flavors dominate. Fresh and bright but with some of the complex qualities that come only with maturity.