This wine is somewhat of a disappointment compared to the 1995 Saint-Aubin en Remilly that we enjoyed tremendously over the past 15 years. I posted a note on my last bottle of the 1995 a couple of months ago.
Even though this wine is four years younger by biological age, it is much deeper gold in color and more advanced in its development than the other wine. Despite the prematurely deep gold color, which is probably due to some changes in winemaking, the wine does not have the oxidized smells and flavors of many other white Burgundies of the late 1990s that have been identified as "pre-moxed." Honey, yes, but it's elegant, rich honey. Also white flowers, peaches and minerals. The silky texture is probably what makes this wine special. But it still lacks the depth and complexity of the 1995.
I'm a believer in Saint-Aubin and Olivier Leflaive's en Remilly vineyard. It's very close to Puligny-Montrachet, one of my favorite white Burgundy appellations, and it offers many of the same elegant qualities found in a good Puligny at what was once a poor man's price. Slightly over $10 a bottle back in the mid-1990s, the wine now sells for close to $40.