Luigi Dessilani was 90 years old when he produced the 1974 Gattinara Riserva reported on below. He was quoted at the time as attributing his longevity to his habit of drinking a full liter of red wine every day. Whatever the reason, his longevity was authentic: he lived and continued to make wine until he was 100.
Luigi's winemaking was traditional, and the wine spent long periods in old barrels in order to tame the high levels of both tannin and acid. His son-in-law Enzo Lucca now produces Dessilani wines, and he has installed modern, high tech equipment to control temperatures and fermentations. Although I haven't tasted Dessilani wines recently, I have little doubt that Enzo Lucca still draws upon the great vineyards and the wealth of traditional information passed along by his father-in-law. The Dessilani wines are no longer cheap, but I suspect that they are still very good values.