I've written before [January 29, 2008] about the traditional wines made by the Picq family (Gilbert's two sons and his daughter are now in charge) in the small village of Chichee in the Chablis region of France. The Chardonnays from this estate are traditional. No new oak is used; the wines are vatted in stainless steel. When the elder Picq experimented with small oak barrels some years ago, he decided that the oak obscured the flinty, earthiness that make his wines and those of Chablis unique.
This regular Chablis is a deep mature gold. The bouquet and flavors confirm that it is probably at its peak right now. Flint, lime, tart gooseberries, rosemary and bitter almonds. Good acid structure and grip with a salty, mineral tang. This is for Chablis lovers only--no butter, no toast, no tropical fruit. There are many (probably the majority) of wine drinkers who prefer their Chardonnays fat and sassy. But my motto is ABC: Always Buy Chablis.