Clos du Coulaine Savennieres, 1998

A decade or more ago, when this wine was nearing the age when most white wines are ready for the grave, I had several bottles of this 1998 /Savennieres that were not at all pleasant. Because I knew Savennieres and its ability to age for decades, I decided the wine was not over the hill but rather under it. I waited, and now, in its mid 20s, this ugly duckling has turned into a beautiful swan.

Deep, deep gold--in a full glass, you might mistake this white wine for a rose. Lovely mature smells and flavors: apricots, quince, eucalyptus honey. Dodging and weaving, the flavors keep coming at you and demanding your attention. Claude Papin, the winemaker, cherishes botrytis in his dry as well as his sweet wines. And this wine clearly has botrytis. It's like drinking a dry version of Climens or Rieussec. I like it.