The Withers Winery Mr. Burgess Sierra Foothills, 2010

As a Europhile, I was dubious when I read that the Withers team intended, with this wine, to "pay homage to our heroes in Hermitage and Cornas" of the Northern Rhone. After tasting a bottle, I'm not sure I would trade any of my Domaine Thalabert (a Crozes-Hermitage) for it, but I do find it a very powerful and enjoyable New World Syrah. (Actually, it is 90% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre.) 

Deep and dark. Enchanting bouquet of black berries and currants, cassis and lavender. Beefy notes on the palate with a medium plus body (14.1%) and an exciting level of acidity--far more than I would expect in a New World Syrah. Tannins are no problem here as they might be with a 15-year-old Hermitage or Cornas and the deep-fruited finish is glorious. This 2010 is still available at the winery for $32.50, but I paid $15 at auction in early 2023. There were numerous bottles available at that time; wish I had bought more.

Domaine du Cayron Gigondas, 2004

There are many excellent producers of  Gigondas, an appellation in the Southern Rhone just south of Vacqueyras and north of Chateauneuf du Pape. But as far as I am concerned, Cayron is in a class by itself. I fondly remember Cayrons from 1980, 1981, 1983, 1985, 1986 and 1988, all of which aged very well over 15 to 20 years. The 2004 vintage was difficult for Cayron since some of the blossoms failed to turn into fruit (coulure), but this bottle is still giving pleasure 21 years after the vintage.

Medium ruby with significant bricking. Powerful scents of dark cherries, rosemary, pepper and cloves carrying over to classic Gigondas fruit with an uplifting chalky note on the mid-palate. Cayron power, charm and complexity. Long finish.
 

Famiglia Cotarello Ferentano Bianco Lazio IGT, 2021

Made from Roscetto, an ancient grape grown only in the country side just north of Rome, this wine is not very well known, but that will certainly change if enough people get to taste it. It is a rare delight.

Deep yellow, bright and clear. Upfront smells and flavors of pear, melon, vanilla with some floral scents. Full bodied and rich, yet with brisk acidity. Now, as the wine airs and warms, the minerals start taking over. Salty, savory, mineral driven. Long, complex finish. 

I bought this from Wine Spies for $19. For that price, I would not hesitate to go back for more if it were available.
 

Careglio Roero DOCG, 2011

Although the grape is not mentioned on the label, Careglio Roero DOCG is 100% Nebbiolo and actually a notch up from the estate's Langhe Nebbiolo, which is produced from younger vines. 

Medium dark ruby red, shading to garnet. The wine has spent some time in new oak, but that certainly has not diminished its lovely Nebbiolo bouquet. Roses, violets, crushed berries and black tea. Tannins that are grippy but fine textured and countered by red cherry acidity. Long finish with substantial complexity.

Without Nebbiolo on the label, this wine apparently does not sell well in this country, and I have obtained several vintages of this wine on WineBid for $10 or $15 a bottle. They drink well at 8 to 10 years of age, but I suspect they will go even longer.

Bernard Morey et Fils Clos Saint Jean Chassagne Montrachet Premier Cru, 2001

I don't buy much red Burgundy because, dollar for dollar, I get more pleasure from Pinot Noir wines from Oregon and the Anderson Valley of California. This is a red Chassagne I bought many years ago for about $15  at Village Corner in Ann Arbor, and it is showing very well 24 years after the vintage.

Very light with amber tones but bright and clear. A glorious fruit and flower bouquet that gets better and better with every swirl and every sniff. I could quit right now and be happy. Delicacy personified. Red raspberries, cherries, ripe and lovely. Tongue tingling acidity. Savory, peppery tones emerge on the long finish.

 

Domaine Arnaud Lambert Clos de Midi Breze Saumur Blanc, 2018

I love dry Chenin Blanc wines from the Loire. Those from Saumur are less expensive than those from Savennieres and this Clos de Midi Breze offers similar intensity and complexity to some of the best Savennieres.

Full gold. Rich and exciting smells and flavors that change and grow over the course of the meal. Peaches, pears, lemon peel and spice with a touch of honey. Has the body and texture you expect from a red wine. Grabs your attention and doesn't let go.
 

Chateau de Montmirail Cuvee de Beauchamp Gigondas, 2013

Beauchamp is usually 75% Grenache, but the Grenache crop was somewhat stunted in 2013 so this bottle may have more Syrah and Mourvedre than usual.

Medium ruby with amber tones. Expressive nose of berries, cherries, violets and aromatic herbs. Pleasantly warm (14%) on mid-palate. Ripe fruit balanced against fresh acidity. Very traditional. Just the way I like Gigondas.

Bergadano Langhe Nebbiolo, 2008

This is the last of a 12-bottle case I bought for $120 in 2011 from Binny's of Chicago. The Nebbiolo grapes come from the same Monforte d'Alba plot that produces Bergadano's flagship Barolo but from vines lower on the hill on more fertile soil with higher yields.

Medium deep, orangish tones. The bouquet is a bit less vibrant than it was on our last bottle a couple of years ago. The wine was aged in French oak barriques. Flavors, though, are fresh and bright--cherries, black licorice, minerals and earth. Medium body with a good balance of fruit and acidity. Finish that gets longer and more satisfying as the meal progresses. 
 

Point Ormond Victoria (Australia) Shiraz, 2020

As far as I can tell, there is no Point Ormond winery. This wine was bottled by BMW of North Fitzroy, a suburb of Melbourne, from grapes grown in Australia, probably from a small vineyard in or near Heathcote in Victoria. The grapes are very fine indeed, but instead of lavishing them with extravagant French oak, the winemaker decided to let the prime produce speak for itself. The result is exactly what I am looking for in Shiraz--low oak, high acid, low alcohol (13.6%), low price and delicious fruit.

Deep and dark, no bluish or purplish tones. Inviting aromas of currants, dried herbs, bay leaf and eucalyptus. Coats the tongue with Shiraz flavors, supple and friendly. No reason not to enjoy this wine right now, and the price ($14.99) is reasonable enough that you can drink it often.