Thursday, June 26, 2025

Elyse Le Corbeau Hudson Vineyard Los Carneros, 2007

 

The label states the winery's goal of echoing "the great wines of Chateauneuf du Pape." As a long-time fan of those great Southern Rhone wines, I can say that Elyse has done of very good job of capturing the unique qualities of Chateauneuf du Pape, albeit from vineyards in California.

Lovely bright ruby/crimson with brickish notes creeping in. Not unlike a good CdP. Fresh and dried fruit--raspberrries, strawberries and red plums--very deep and concentrated. Tobacco, minerals, black pepper. Savory and salty rather than sweet with flavors that reverberate and linger. May not age into its 30s as many Chateauneufs do, but this wine is showing well at age 18.

Sunday, June 22, 2025

Carpe Diem Anderson Valley Chardonnay, 2019

Carpe Diem is made by Roederer, the French Champagne house that bought vineyard land in the Anderson Valley to produce both sparkling and still wines. As a result, it display some Euro as well as American traits.

Full lemon yellow color. Also lemon in the smells and flavors, along with green apple and a touch of vanilla. Some ripe California fruit in the middle leading to fresh Anderson Valley acidity in the finish
 

Friday, June 20, 2025

Gabriel Meffre Sainte Catherine Gigondas, 2012

I opened this bottle about nn hour before dinner, but I should have opened it sooner. It was showing its best near the end of the meal. Aeration has never been an issue for me in the past with Southern Rhone reds.

Medium ruby, significant bricking. Cherries, berries and spice emerge slowly over the course of the meal. Has the power and tannic grip to be expected from Gigondas, but the lifted rosemary and thyme traits that I find in my favorite Gidondas wines are late to arrive and a bit tired when they do. If you have bottles of this in your cellar, I would be inclined to drink sooner rather than later.
 

Wednesday, June 18, 2025

Curto Marco di Nadia Curto Vin Rosso, 2023

As I was strolling the aisles of the Alba Truffle Festival in October of 2019, with wine and food merchants of the Piedmont bombarding me with samples, I was hailed down by an attractive young woman representing Curto Marco winery--a name that was not familiar to me and not as romantic as some of the others. What she gave me to taste and the information she gave me about her wines was as good or better than anything else I encountered during my two-week stay. Nadia Curto comes from a family that has been growing wines near LaMorra for many years but bottling them only since she has taken over for her father. I expressed my interest in traditionally made Barolo, and she showed me her Barolo la Foia. But she cautioned me not to make up my mind too quickly as she showed me her Barolo Arborina, made in the more moder style of her uncle, Elio Altare. Both were fantastic, I told her, and she smiled graciously.

This Curto Marco di Nadia Curto Vin Rosso, which I obrtained last year from Saratoga Wine Exchange for $18 a bottle, is a blend of young vine Nebbiolo and old vine (80 years plus) Dolcetto, is made for every day or "informal" consumption. It is beautiful. Medium deep ruby. Charming Nebbiolo aromatics of dark cherry and rose petals. Ripe black berries and plums up front followed by lovely tannins on the mid-palate and juicy red cherries on the finish. Both Nebbiolo and Dolcetto are high in tannins, but for this wine they add rather than block the lovely taste profile. 

 

Sunday, June 15, 2025

Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape, 1988

I brought out the Pinot Noir glasses for this wine. Fine old Chateauneuf du Pape can smell and taste like fine old red Burgundy. And this 1988 Vieux Telegraphe certainly fits the profile.

Light brick red on a small pour. Not unexpected. From the time the cork is removed until I have my last sip two hours later, the bouquet is divine. And the flavors measure up plus plus. Wild cherries, sttrawberries, some herbal and vegetative notes. Very concentrated but oh so refined. Medium light body, silky smooth texture. Flavors that expand and change shape on the mid-palate and finish. Ripe fruit, suprisingly fresh 37 years after the vintage, countered by savory, salty complexity. Ranks in the top 10, maybe the top 5, of wines I have tasted over tbe last 45 years.

Tuesday, June 10, 2025

Willamette Valley Vineyards Dijon Clone Chardonnay, 2017

When I attended a Zoom wine tasting with Jim Bernau, founder of Willamette Valley Vineyards, I expected to be impressed by  the Pinot Noirs. And I was. My big surprise was the quality of the Chardonnays, which were among the best Chardonnays I have tasted. This Dijon Clone Chardonnay is the least expensive of WVV's Chardonnays but still extremely impressive.

Medium gold, bright and clear. White peach with peel, pear and loads of minerality. Vibrant acidity and rich flavors. Creme brulee and honey on the long, luscious finish. 20% new French oak adds some intrigue, but the wine is 100% Willamette Valley in its mineral and soil driven personality.
 

Saturday, June 7, 2025

Bava Piano Alto di Crena Nizza Barbera, 2014

I didn't know Barbera could be so good--at least not until a few months ago when I tried the Trader Joe's Platinum Reserve Bersani Family Nizza. I loved the wine and, for $14.99, I stocked up and put Nizza on my radar. 

This wine from Bava illustrates what I surmised:at the time: Nizza Barbera is a serious wine built for aging. As recently as 2014, Nizza was first given DOCG appellation  status in Piedmont. Over many years wine producers and experts discovered that Barbera grows very well in Nizza and, as a result, the grape is given some of the best vineyard sites and  appropriate cellar treatment.

Beautiful deep, dark ruby with some amber creeping in at the rim. Has been aged in large upright casks. Exotic perfume of red and black currants, tobacco and black pepper. Every bit as inviting as a good Barolo or Barbaresco. Flavors are sweet on first taste but develop over time, becoming savory, almost salty. Barbera level acidity with deep and complex fruit.

Chateau Grand Traverse Proprietor's Red, NV

This is unique wine made from multiple varietals--Gamay Noir, Merlot, Blaufrankisch, Cab Dorsa and Dornfelder (a French hybrid)--and multiple vintages ranging from 2013 to 2023. It was aged 18 months in individually selected barrels.

Medium dark tones. Cherries, plums, black pepper, earth. Ripe fruit with acidity to balance. Similar to the Gamay Noir in style. Smooth texture. Elegance personified. Sells for $26 at the winery and worth every penny.


 

Chateau Grand Traverse Old Mission Peninsula Gamay Noir Reserve, 2018

The Gamay Noir Reserve spent 40 months in oak compared to 8 for the Gamay Noir Limited. And it is priced at $32 compared to $18 for the Limited. Regardless of price, I prefer the Limited.

Medium deep red. Sweeter and darker cherries and plums compared to the Limited. Black pepper, dark chocolate, coffee. Rich, oaky finish but a bit lacking in acidity.
 

Chateau Grand Traverse Old Mission Peninsul Gamay Noir Limited, 2021

The Gamay Noir at Chateau Grand Traverse strikes me as more Pinot Noir than the Pinot Noir itself. It is one of my favorite Michigan red wines.

Medium dark. Has spent eight months in oak. Well defined smells and flavors. Tart cherries, earth, peppercorn. Peppery finish with good acidity. At $18 a good value.

Chateau Grand Traverse Old Mission Peninsula Block Twelve Riesling, 2022

Hand picked from a single vineyard well recognized for producing high quality Riesling, this Block Twelve Riesling is nearly always my favorite at this estate. This year, it is very good but takes runnerup to the brightly aromatic Whole Cluster Riesling (see below).

Medium light. Has been whole cluster pressed. A bit muted but fruit and mineral scents open with swirling. Ripe apple, citrus. Good fruit on the front and mid-palate and a strong finish. This will come on strong with a few years in the bottle. If my family liked Riesling as much as I do, I would buy a perennial buyer of this wine.

Chateau Grand Traverse Old Mission Peninsula Whole Cluster Riesling, 2022

Usually among my favorites, this Whole Cluster Riesling blew the other two away this year at my Chateau Grand Traverse tasting.

Medium light color. Very expressive aromas, floral and fruit, bright and fresh. As usual, good weight and texture. Long finish. Awarded 93 points by Decanter and well deserved
 

Chateau Grand Traverse Old Mission Peninsula Dry Riesling, 2022

When I visit Chateau Grand Traverse on the Old Mission Peninsula near Traverse City, Michigan, I am most interested in tasting the dry Rieslings and the Gamay Noirs, their best wines, in my opinion. At $16, the Dry Riesling is the most basic choice.

Light color, a bit muted on the nose. Green apples, a touch of petrol. At this stage (or in this vintage), lacks the bright floral notes I like in Riesling.
 

Thursday, June 5, 2025

Tenuta Olim Bauda Barbera d'Asti, 2023

This is a serious Barbera that matched well with an Angus beef Bolognese pasta at Trattoria Stella in Traverse City.

Deep, dark ruby. Enticing aromas of dark cherries, red berries and earth. Medium body. Good grip on mid-palate. Great fruit concentration with good balance of tannin and acidity. Long finish. An excellent Barbera.
 

Wednesday, June 4, 2025

Paul Jaboulet Aine Parallele 45 Cotes du Rhone, 2022

The 45th parallel runs a few kilometers from the Jaboulet estate in France, and it also runs several kilometers from where I am drinking this wine at Amical Restaurant in Traverse City, MI. It's 56 degrees here in early June, and the grapes in Jaboulet's vineyards also benefit from a somewhat chilly growing season.

Medium deep ruby, bright and clear. The wine has been matured on its lees for six months in stainless steel and truncated cone-shaped vats. It is 53% Grenache, 37% Syrah, 5% Mourvedre, 3% Marselan and 2% Carignan, but what I am smelling and tasting tonight is predominantly Syrah. Black raspberries, spice and black pepper. Powerful attack and a firm mid-palate. Grenache begins to show up on red fruited, peppery finish. Will be drinking at its best in a year or two.
 

Chateau Beauregard Ducasse Graves Blanc, 2024

During the 1980s and early 1990s, I bought many white Graves wines. A blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, white Graves wines drink well young and age beautifully over 15 to 20 years or more. A few are very expensive so I was surprised to encounter this $8.99 bargain at my local Trader Joe's. Although it clearly doesn't compete with a $160 Pape Clement Graves, it is a good wine for the price. It was aged on its lees (spent yeast cells) with 100% new oak but does not smell or taste as oaky as most Napa Sauvignon Blancs I have tried.

Light and bright color. Nice aromas learning toward grapefruit and passion fruit with a hint of Spring flowers. That's the Sauvignon speaking. In the mouth, Semillon makes its statement. Full, rich texture, medium body. Roasted figs, legumes, nuts. With a few years in the bottle, I think the Sauvignon and Semillon profiles will blend, creating more savory smells and flavors. I doubt, though, that it will age as beautifully as the bottles of 1983 Fieuzel I drank a few years ago.