Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso, 2008

This wine from Mount Etna in Sicily has been compared to high-level red Burgundies. And, from my limited experience with expensive red Burgundy, I see the similarity. It is elegant, graceful and loaded with lovely smells and flavors.

Medium deep garnet. Bouquet of dark cherries, pomegranates and exotic spices. Also wild and spicy on the palate. On the first night, acidity is so forward that the wine is almost tart, although certainly not austere. On the second night, the balance is perfect--spicy fruit and ripe tannins countered by the acidity you might expect from a good Nebbiolo. Long, long finish.

I paid about $12 for this wine at D&W in Kalamazoo several years ago, and I still have a few bottles (which I am in no hurry to drink). When I see the current vintage on shelves today (such as at Tiffany's in Kalamazoo), it is usually $18 to $20 but still worth it, in my opinion.