Friday, February 7, 2014

Chateau d'Epire Savennieres, 1982

What a wonderful surprise. The last bottle of this wine that I opened in September, 2008 seemed hopelessly over the hill, and I assumed the last three or four bottles in the cellar were doomed for dumping down the sink. I finally got the nerve to open another and voila! Beautiful; everything a mature Savenniere should be.

The color is remarkable for a 32-year-old white table wine: brilliant, clear, medium deep gold. (The 2008 bottle was much, much deeper and murkier.) There is a bit of funk around the edges of the bouquet but nothing to get distressed about. Rich, powerful Chenin Blanc fruit scents. Red Haven peaches with lots of red fruit acidity, minerals, flowers. The more you smell, the more you discover. And on the palate, it's even more exciting. Silky smooth. Expands on the mid-palate and just keeps growing. Length and breadth galore. Long finish with flavors that dance all the way down. This is what mature Savennieres is all about. I love it.

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