Careglio Roero, 2011

Careglio's Roero is 100% Nebbiolo from vineyards just across the Tanaro River from Barolo and Barbaresco. Yet Nebbiolo doesn't even appear on the label. Locals know the quality, of course, but it often gets overlooked on American wine shelves even though it often sells for $15 to $20.

Fairly deep ruby for Nebbiolo but some garnet at edges. Opens with beautiful scents of rose petals, violets and fresh fruit. Dark cherry compote expands on the mid-palate, takes on some licorice tones and then slinks into a finely textured finish. Softer tannins than a Barolo or Barbaresco but the fruit flavors are just as intense and profound.