Paul Jaboulet Aine Crozes-Hermitage Domaine Thalabert, 1991

How can I get past  a birthday without drinking another bottle of Domaine Thalabert? This Crozes-Hermitage ranks high among my all-time favorite wines, and this 1991 ranks high (along with 1983 and 1990) among all Thalabert vintages I have had.

Saturated ruby red color with brickish tones. Lifted scents that become increasingly beautiful as the meal progresses. Red fruits more than black: red raspberries, cherries, earth and black pepper. Light on the palate, but incredible depth; almost as if the wine is boring into my tongue and making a permanent home. Long, complex, ethereal finish. As always, this wine puts me under its spell. Robert Parker has always raved about the 1990, but I think the 1991 may be even better.