Val de Sil Valdeorras Godello, 2008

There are many old vineyards of Godello in this area of northern Spain, but the wines were fading in popularity until interest was revived recently with the help of importer Erik Solomon. This is the first Godello I have tasted so I can't tell you how true it is to its traditions. But it is a special wine, better than the As Sortes I have tried and at least as good as the Sabrego I have reported on several times.

Medium to deep gold. Lovely floral, herbal, mineral bouquet. Hints of almonds and grains. Almost like a fine white Burgundy. With 13.5% alcohol, the wine is full bodied with flavors that are almost buttery in their concentration. I say that with hesitation because this wine has no resemblance whatsoever to the "big, buttery" New World Chardonnays that were once popular and still have their advocates. More like a Puligny-Montrachet or Mersault. Great depth of flavor.Clings to the palate and dances. Undoubtedly at its peak right now. Drink and enjoy.